Bambikiller240

Are you going to be installing a larger than stock sway bar?

I knew that when found they would be of the "imported" variety.

S E M (brand) Vinyl Dye.

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Paging Mr Bill: WOW

Glad I'm not the only one who thought some of those cars looked FWD. Suspensions looked way too soft to allow any sort of control in the stunts also. Forrest Gump was right!

Man, that is one scary Avatar! (movie was good, but that charector was one twisted dude)

I just found the same info, and the diagram I was thinking of (it wasn't in the FSM), in my "How to Modify Datsun Engines & Chassis" book (printed in 1973) Wonder why they used the same picture and design for the cover of the book I have and the different book that Chris referenced?

Matria; who is doing the machine work for you?

:stupid: Some people will strike a match in a fireworks factory too.

You are talking about the horn pad, right? Does yours have cracks in it that cause it to not stay where it belongs? If so you may be able to repair it. There is a thread (somewhere on the site) that details the process and even has pictures of the process. HERE IT IS!

I think a backyard build could be done, but it would be difficult to make it look EXACTLY like the OEM piece. Time, Welder, sourcing mesh that is "identical"...........think I'd rather spend a little effort and find an OEM one. The eBay auction sold at a ridicules price, as I said earlier, Chloe offered me one in March 2004 (she had 6 in stock if I recall correctly) for about $140 plus $8 shipping. I suspect they can still be purchased for close to that amount if someone makes an effort to look around.

Thanks for the great information, Phred. Us shade tree types can learn alot from a professional like yourself. I'm starting to vaguely remember a diagram in the FSM that may have shown the diagonal passages you mention. I'll have to dig it out and do a bit of reading tomorrow. Thanks again for clearing things up.

Hi Pred: So there are plugs in the crankshaft itself also? I didn't notice them. I only saw the ones in the block. Where are they located? In a counterweight, or ??? Good thing you are around to set us straight when necessary! Thanks.

The galley plugs are in the BLOCK, not the crank. But I'm sure you don't want to take the block back either. I don't think (almost positive) the Machine shop (Diablo Engine & Machine in Dublin) removed my Galley plugs when they rebuilt my L24 Short Block last year. Engine and Oil pressure have been fine since, but I haven't put a lot of miles on it. I would think the machine shop should have pumped a lot of solvent through the oil passages when servicing the block, and if flow seemed restricted should have addressed it at that time. Who is did the work for you?

The one I got from MSA was made of a cheap Pink Plastic. The "handle" (if you can call it that) was a rinky dink loop of monofiliment (fishing line). They sell it for $12, it's worth about $5. The tool they sell DOES NOT look anything like the illustration in their catalog or website (see link below). The illustration is of the kind of tool I used to have. Made of dense plastic with a stranded WIRE loop for a handle. Durable, strong, and a much better fit to where it needs to go to keep the tensioner positioned properly, http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60-9921

I think you'd have to disconnect the brake lines if you did this. I also beleive that it would be far easier to do this on a car that has short strings (rather than stock OEM springs). I'm never in that much of a hurry to try this method. I'd rather do it the safe and sane way with a spring compresser. Different strokes for different folks. (no, I don't have a band-aid for your head when you try this)

Have you reinstalled it all yet? What kind of wire? Must be really large diameter, I'm thinking. It doesn't take much slippage of the tensioner shoe (outward) to prevent assembly. MSA's wedge isn't all that great IMO, but I haven't found a better one currently on the market. I used a template in the "How to Rebuild" book and made one out of hardwood. I wish I hadn't let my original store bought one go when I sold my previous 240Z (bought it in the 70's), it was much better than what MSA sells.

That was what I thought, but I sure don't know what Nissan did in other countries, so I hadda ask.

Anybody check the auction lately? Winning bidder is a jerk off. Item will likely be relisted IMO

Well, 2400 cc's is toward to lower end of the 2000 - 4000 cc and 3 x 1-3/4" line on the graph. This looks to be more for apprpriate for the high HP (highly modified) L24 On the 1500 - 3000 cc line the 2.4L motor is more in the middle of the range using 2 X 1-3/4" This looks to be more appropriate for stock to mildly built L24's Also see Note #2

It all fits on my screen just fine. Funny, I think you are the guy who had so many graphics in hs signature line (a few months ago) that it expanded any page you posted on in the same manner you're complaining about. Besides, you'd be suprised at the number of people who don't read posts carefully. Some need a BFH just to wake them up. I reported the site to eBay (others probably did as well) BTW, eBay has a toolbar you can download for free. The newest version has an "Account Guard" feature that tells you when you are on an "official" eBay or PayPal website. I would still look at the URL address window on my browser to confirm a secure server and the correct URL. I wouldn't trust it 100%, but it couldn't hurt.

BINGO! Besides, last time I auctioned stuff that was a "pair". I got more emails asking to split them up than I did actual bids.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3405 http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/index.htm

I have more time than money at the moment. No rush here.