Bambikiller240

I decide before the end of auction what the item is worth TO ME. I snipe at that price at the last possible moment and if someone else outbids me.......I don't care. I don't bid for fun, I bid for parts. I put dollar bills in "G" Strings for fun! :stupid:

Thanks Gary. Are these sold only in Motorcycle shops or do they have a website that you know of? I'm happy with my K&N filter (the brochure I had claimed it cleaned better when dirty than new), but it's always nice to have a second source for items.

I don't think it's that bad. I don't like the bumpers, or wing. Not too sure about the rear quarter panels either, but other than tha it's not too shabby. The 12/2003 car (Kevin's) is a bit more to my liking, but not every one likes the same thing. Hey, some people like Honey Bees.

hard to believe the supply is THAT short, or the demand THAT high, but then again P.T. Barnum, and Forrest Gump each have a quote that comes to mind in situations like this.

Well, the auction that started this thread is over. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4505345559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Bidding reached $12,600 and ended there. RESERVE NOT MET. NO SALE.

Brian, you can't attach pics to a PM. If the camshaft bearing journals (where the cam fits in the cam towers) are rusty, I think I'd look for better ones, if the cam shaft is rusty, I'd get a different cam. Phred may give different advice, if so take his advice over mine.

I'll laugh, good job or bad job. Now, I'll go back to fitting that 59 T'Bird Dashboard into my classsic 240Z.

Steel Wool and Elbow Grease? Hopefully no rust on the camshaft journals.

FSM = Factory Service Manual (for the year of your particular car) It is not available on-line. You would need to purchase a hard copy or a CD for your specific year.

I'm sure some car nut on eBay will buy it.

In checking the FSM, I find that it specifies BOTH WARM adjustment and COLD lash adjustment figures. It describes the recommended process as adjusting the valves COLD, then warming the engine and checking them HOT and adjusting to WARM spec as/if necessary COLD Spec .008 Intake COLD Spec .010 Exhaust WARM Spec. .010 Intake WARM Spec. .012 Exhaust Keep in mind that theses engines are indeed cold-blooded for the reasons mentioned in your post. Do you still have Intake Manifold/Carb Pre-Heating water system functioning on the car? How cold of temperatures does the car live in? Snow? Phoenix, AZ? Just my opinion, but I wouldn't adjust my valves as tight as your mech suggests.

My Motorsport Auto catalog lists this book. P/N #70-1053 The book is also listed in MSA's On-Line Store for $18.95 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=70-1053&Category_Code=TB Since I just saved you $100, will you buy a copy for me?

The California State program limits payment to a maximum of $500 for a vehicle being purchased to be taken off the road. Maybe a local AQRB (Air Quality Resouce Board) matches the state program or something? It doesn't happen in Nor Cal, but who knows what goes on in So Cal..... They (CA STATE) have another program where if the car fails the Smog Check, you pay the first $100 to a State Certified Repair Center, and the state will pay up to the next $500 towards getting it repaired to the point it will pass the Smog Check. But you can't be in both programs. In order for the car owner to receive $500 to take the car off the road, it must have passed it's last Smog Check.

I don't know much about tire sizes, but how can a 175 tire be the same as a 195 ? ? ?

Auction for Burt's car ended. No Sale. High bid was $17.1K Seems every auction, the final bid is lower than the previous auction. If Burts car only draws $17K, how can the value of other car be $19K???? IMO it can't be justified.

Bob: My belief from the 2 letters I've gotten from the CA DMV (re 2 different vehicles) is that they do assume that if the vehicle is old, then it may be a "gross polluter" and should be removed from the roads. Both letters had a sentence appologizing if your vehicle was a classic, antique, or otherwise valuable.

The state buys them from owners for $500 IF they passed their last Smog Check (even if that was 2 years ago). Wonder how bad of shape it is in?

Attention tfm101: Drop the Rock and step away from the Crack Pipe! What you have in that field is a basic, standard P.O.S. You'll hava a hard time finding a charity that will come out and drag it away. PS Shoulda fixed that fuel pump 13 years ago.

Why do people buy/value a baseball that some steriod packed guy whacked into the stands for his "# xxxxx" home run? Can anyone identify it from any other basball? Does it look different, feel different, etc????? Does it matter? Only to those erecting a shrine (or a museum). BTW, I worked at a Plymouth dealership while in High School and got to drive many of the new cars (briefly) of the 1967 to 1971 era and the 440 Cuda's were incredible power monsters. The AAR's and 340 - 6 Pack's were big fun to drive also.

The BIN price is outrageous! Chloe was selling them for under $150.

Hard to estimate worth even with pictures, but without pictures it's nearly impossible. IMO, $3K sounds high,and your estimate on repair costs sounds low. JMO.

Datsun/Nissan OEM cams for ALL North American Market 240Z's require the cam oiler bar. There are 2 different E88 heads, The Early E88 has the same combustion chamber design as the E31. The late E88 head has a lower compression design. As stated earlier, IF you have had work done to the head currently on your car, I'd keep it. However, if you haven't had work done, I'd consider changing it to the E31 (or the Early E88) at some convenient time. FWIW, the FSM's indicates: 72 240Z - 9.0 : 1 Compression Ratio 73 240Z - 8.8 : 1 " "

I have been getting the notifications, but many of them are late. Like a day or two late. The 10 charector requirement for posts has been in effect since the site meltdown in July.

Well, the obvious is the solid mount (spherical bearings) instead of bushings. Track width?

Adjustable for camber, caster, toe