Bambikiller240

Bryan: I was referring to the post by ez73. My gauge barely reads full, but the tank will hold 15.9 gallons. (similar to your situation, I believe) Readings of 2/3 full could be caused by air trapped in the tank . IMO, it's worth looking into, especially since it costs nothing but time to examine the vent lines and connections. Your gauge (or even mine) reading "a tad under full" is quite a ways from ex73's gauge reading 2/3 when full, IMO.

Having 40 miles of gas when the tank reads empty is completely normal for a Z car. As for the gauge reading 2/3 when full, are you positive the tank is 100% full? Sometimes people (previous owners) will have disabled the fuel tank vent lines in such a way that air pockets are stuck in the tank, and the tank never gets it's full 15.9 gallons of fuel. Oh, you can see fuel in the filler tube, but there are air pockets (due to the vents being screwed up) that keep the tank from being completely filled.

Vic: How's he going to get it to ALASKA from "AR"kansas?

............except when 1/2 the state is being blown across the other half of the state. (and durring the extended clean-up after the "wind event".

failing that you must start selling parts off these vehicles to those who have running cars. No fair letting them rust to death in AR (no, that's not Arizona)

Wingnut: Your existing manifold will work just fine. In fact, many people think the N36 intake manifold (which should be the one you have) will flow better than the E88 manifold that came on 240Z's.

pronunciation don't matter in a phone book, it's spelling that counts

Hi Alex! Good to hear from you and glad the car is fixed. I do remember meeting your friend with the Plymouth Fury at the Rio Vista meet. That was a really fun day. I hope Dan will be able to have the show again. How is your car coming along? I'm looking forward to seeing it on the road (flashing past me no doubt) one of these days. Take care!

MI = Michigan MO = Misery (Missouri) :laugh:

Actually, I wasn't "guessing". Sorry if I cannot prove the answer as I do not remember (nor do I care to re-read them all for this purpose) which of the many manuals I have read that it was in. Now don't take this wrong, but IMO what should really matter is that it WAS installed by Nissan for a reason, not by some schlub who purchased it from Grand Auto. There's one way to 100% confirm the reason it's there. Leave it off and see how the steering rack fails.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8438&highlight=steering+rack+limit

Quote from the auction: "PRODUCT WILL BE SHIPPED TO THE WINNING BIDDER AT HIS EXPENSE OF $100 SHIPPING WITHIN 2 WEEKS OF RECIEVED PAYMENT." :stupid:

Probably not D.O.T. approved. (US Department of Transportation)

Hi Dave: My 240Z Flywheeel only has 6 P/P mounting spots for bolts.

several different views

It is a factory add-on to stop excess flex of the steering rack. When the rack flexs, the flex is limited when the "bumper thingy" contacts the cross member. I know it has been sicussed before on this site, but a quick search didn't turn up the thread.

Before (BTDC) is where timing should be set. If I remember correctly, you turn Mixture screw UP (which is counterclock wise) to lean the mixture. Without test equipment, I believe that you are going to have a very difficult job to get the engine running properly to pass the smog test.

With a Hydrocarbon reading of 9014, I think your carbs are out of tune and are running way too rich (too much fuel). I believe that your carbs need to be adjusted to a much leaner condition.

useful as tits on a bull couldn't whip his way out of a wet paper bag he's a fart in a wind storm PS, jumper cables are what you use to connect one car to another a car with a flat battery.

What does it fit? What doesn't it fit?

Well, you were right too. Clutch ENGAGED, Gears DISENGAGED, it's all in which end you're looking at, but the terms get confusing sometimes. At least to me. The pedal arm deal ocurred on my car, otherwise I would never have thought of it causing the problem.

It would be "not disengaging from the flywheel" if the car creeps forward, which indeed could cause the grinding. (I know, I know, when clutch is "engaged", the flywheel is "disengaged") Could be caused by either, or both hydraulic cylinders not functioning properly. Low fluid levels, or could also be the hole in the clutch pedal arm where the clutch m/c connects is ovalled and thus pedal movement is wasted taking up the slack there instead of moving fluid to fully operate the m/c and slave cylinder.

Installer would have to be real Stoopid to istall T.O. bearing backwards. It's real obvious which way it goes. T.O. bearing is the same for all 1970 thru 1989 Z cars If it is worse when the box is cold, it may be that synchos are going and someone put in thicker oil to quiet it down for a while.

Sounds logical to me. How much wood could a woodchuck chuck?