Bambikiller240

Rubbing issues will depend on width of rim and backspace. As for ride quality,for a given fixed circumferance of tire wheel combo, you'll obviously lose an inch of (flexible) tire sidewall with 16" wheels while gaining an inch of (inflexible) wheel. Will it make a difference? Yes, but only you can say if it will be too much for you. FWIW, I would go with 15" wheels unless it was a track only race car, but that's just my opinion. I like a bit of comfort, especially for longer cruises. Some people buy 17" wheels for Z's so................?

Ah, I didn't know they used A series engines. Wonder why they switched to that engine?

Michael: If you are thiking of using Z car SU's in the B210, you might find a lot of info on how/What to do from the DimeQuarterly (Datsun 510) email list folks. Doesn't it use the same 4 cyl engine? I don't have the info on how to hook up with them, but Victor Laury probably does.

AFAIK, Yes, that's all it does (except to also provide a port for vacuum needed for your brake booster No. Unbalanced breathing of cylinders?(front 3 cyls v.s. rear 3 cyls) No port for vaccum to the brake booster. Cooler air/fuel mixture = more dense charge to cylinder, more air and fuel = more potential for power (if the charge gets fully burned) The heat was/is only applied when the engine is cold. After about 80 degrees water temp (temp spec according to 2ManyZ's) the water flow is cut off by the valve at the back of the manifold. Heat applied to a fully warm engine would likely result in fuel vaporization in the carbs. This feature is generally not needed unless you face ice and snow weather. It has been routinely eliminated by people seeking optimim performance since the mid 1970's. (original "How to Modify Dasun Engines and Chassis" published in 1973)

Dumb as a fence post Organ donor Poster child for a Prophylactic

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489

I was going by what happened to me at a Pick N Pull last month when I tried to do what you mentioned. You won't (I couldn't) be able to get the coupling out of the mounting ear which made working on it more difficult, and even before I twisted the line, I wished I had not tried this method. Your mileage may vary. http://www.inlinetube.com/ http://www.classictube.com/ Either one of these places should be able to recreate a line using your old one as a pattern. Also, if you have a tubing bender and can find a generic brake line of similar length, you could try to make one yourself.

You would still be unscrewing the same threads in the same fitting. All I can see it doing is (MAYBE) "slightly" minimizing the chance of rounding the flats on the flare nut. Instead, you'd twist the line into a pretzel. I don't see this being of much benefit. Heat, Kroil (or PB Blaster), and a good flare-nut wrench (or small vice-grips used carefully) will be of most use to you.

The one bullet hole I've seen in a car ( a Drug Dealer's late 80's Rustang, come to think of it, he was "late" also ) looked alot bigger than it was because the paint was gone around the hole (1/4" around the hole maybe)

Welcome Robert. I think Vicky was referring to the marked area on the door, not the quarter panel emblem area. Maybe it is a "Bird Bomb"?

, you should read the book "Bush's Brain", then come back and talk about original thoughts.

, Question is, what are you going to do now that we are here! (do any of these words sound familiar?)

Nothing. I don't need to. I hope you find a sandbox more to your liking.

How enlightened you are. I wonder what the country did before you got here.

10mm Flare nut wrench, or vice grips. (use something else besides WD40) or I have taken a 10mm box end wrench, cut the box off of it, then cut a "small" gap into the box. (so it is similar to the end of a flare nut wrench but thinner, & more flexible) I then put that piece on the fitting and use vice-grips to clamp the "box" down tight and loosen the fitting. It works pretty good, but the "box" will eventually break (I've gotten as many as 20 uses out of one of these)

The show is being rebroadcast on the 13th I believe. Check your local listings

Twin Tower had nothing to do with Iraq. That is a fact. If that is what we are fighting about, we should have attacked Saudi Arabia. Oh wait, we aready get their oil.

http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html

$1800 to $2200 is ball park in my experience (CA prices) with a 240Z motor rebuild. Except for the EFI there isn't much difference between the engines in terms of rebuilding.

Rick: I am afraid that I don't remember that movie, but I may have seen it. Ther are alot of things from that era that I've forgotten. Looks like Will, Stephen and the others have cover the Yank slang thoroughly, I can't think of one they've missed.

And my 11/71 mfg'd Z also came with shoulder belts.

I'll have to watch it again. I didn't notice the Auto trans. I was doing other stuff while watching, guess I missed that. I was surprised to see Joe Demers and Les Canaday on the show.

I hope to never be programmed. 1984 won't catch up with me, no siree bob! Logic would seem to dicatate that (since this thread is about DOT safety standards) that an accident in OHIO involves the same safety issues as one in CA, the same forces generated, etc. I cannot see how there should be any difference.

Centerforce 1 starts out as a basic clutch, but it has been modified to have the ring of weights that add extra clamping force as RPM rise. I have one and it is an improvement over the Daiken clutch I had from MSA. I love it. No experience with the Centerfroce 2 Attachment shows Centerforce 1 box with picture of the weight ring attached to the fingers of the P/P. As centrifugal forces build the weights cause the P/P to grip the disc tighter and tighter (30% tighter). Centerforce 1 Clutch