Bambikiller240

Must be good advice, to repeat it 3 times.

Our member zhead240 (he's in Canada also) just bought a nice one for around $11K. Spending less may result in "issues" to be dealt with, but if you look long enough, and hard enough, you might find a good one for under $10K. Take your time and search thoroughly and you will be rewarded.

Lachlan: Did you build that model? What scale is it? It looks very nice.

Wow! I still have some 8 track tapes, but no player. (not looking for one either) Some day they will go on eBay, but not for a while (it would take a while to find them).

I had this done on my rusty 72 240Z tank about 5 years ago. Dropped it off on Weds AM, by Thurs PM it had been boiled, opened, sandblasted, closed back up, sealed, and outside painted. Told me to wait until Friday PM before adding fuel (I waited until Sat AM). Cost $175 (Bay Area, CA price) 3 year warranty. No problems since. There must be several sealants that are used by various shops around the country,

Place mouse pointer on any avatar pic, right click your mouse, select "Save Target As" and BAM! your avatar is mine! (or at least it's saved to my computer)

I am really surprised at that. Are you the original owner, Rob? I also had a 1971 Ford Pimple (er, Pinto) that had a overflow bottle.

Of course, Gas Tank Renu provides a lifetime warranty..........

73 240Z's had the reservoir bottle. (at least my 3/73 mfg'd had one) Why would a P.O. add one? Same reason the factory added them in 73. To be a "sealed system" where the radiator is always full and overflow doesn't get puked onto the ground. It gets saved in the reservoir bottle. If you race your car on a track ( and/or most autocrosses) you are required to have an overflow bottle or you don't run. Why not just move the bottle? Many people put them in front of the radiator support off to one side or the other. It's not like it hurts anything (except the environment when it's not there and your coolant leaks out. Just a thought.

Centerforce I clutch set is designed to use the stock components. Just make sure you have the Centerforce set spec'd for a 240Z and not a 280Z. If you are using a Centerforce II clutch set you have to use a 280Z T/O collar to make it work in a 240/260Z

Large Crescent Wrench (Adjustable Spanner) or a Pipe Wrench. Wrap the the piston rod of the strut to protect it if the wrench slips. There is a "Special Tool" for this job, but it's way more expensive than the two suggestions above.

PS Hopefully you don't have new strut cartridges installed yet. If the old cartridges are still installed there should be no reason to worry about heat transferred to the strut tube at all since there is no reason to heat it directly. (If you do have new cartridges installed already I'd have to ask WHY?)

Well, you shouldn't have to heat the strut tube. I'd only heat from the bottom (i.e. heating the ball joint and the steering knuckle). Oh, another thing, forget about using WD40, it's crap. PB Blaster (available at stores) or my favorite product, KROIL (available by mail or internet from www.kanolabs.com) are the only products to use. They far outperform anything else on the market

Bolt it all together (with the ball joint to steering knuckle nut left off) and grab your pickle fork and a BFH and go to it. One or two solid whacks ought to do it. BTW, I would still encourage you to build a stout workbench and to buy a good vice. They make many jobs so much easier to deal with.

http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2005-05-22-ford-tires_x.htm?csp=24&RM_Exclude=Juno Ford Warns Customers about Tires By Jeff Plungis, The Detroit News WASHINGTON — Ford Motor Co. has become the first U.S. automaker to warn customers that they should replace older tires, even if their treads are not worn out. Ford officials said the move comes in response to a growing body of research that suggests that tires deteriorate as they age and can experience tread separations and other failures, even if they look robust. "Tires degrade over time, even when they are not being used," Ford's warning reads. "It is recommended that tires generally be replaced after six years of normal service. Heat caused by hot climates or frequent high loading conditions can accelerate the aging process." Ford's new tire warning was posted on the company's Web site, www.ford.com, within the last three weeks and will be printed in owner's manuals beginning with 2006 model year vehicles. Similar warnings have appeared in Europe, but this is the first time one of Detroit's Big Three has cautioned U.S. customers. Foreign makers including Volkswagen AG, BMW AG, Toyota Motor Corp. and DaimlerChrysler AG have alerted customers in Europe and the United States about aging tires. General Motors Corp.'s European brands, Vauxhall and Opel, also have carried similar warnings. In the years since the Firestone tire recall, Ford has funded several studies on tire safety, including how rubber ages, how older tires perform in the field, and how to develop laboratory tests that simulate how tires age in the real world. The six-year replacement recommendation was based on a broad study of tires retrieved from the field, said Ford spokesman Dan Jarvis. Ford engineers are presenting new research on tire aging this week at an American Chemical Society meeting in Texas. Activist Sean Kane has petitioned the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration for an easy-to-read tire age label. Kane, the president of SRS Inc., a Massachusetts auto safety research firm, has documented 73 crashes related to older tires that have resulted in 50 deaths since 1999. Kane also said the safety agency should issue a consumer advisory based on the latest research, an approach the agency has followed before when it has stopped short of regulation. NHTSA spokesman Rae Tyson said the agency is not ready to issue any kind of consumer advisory, but that does not prevent automakers or tire companies from issuing their own warnings if they have research suggesting a safety issue. "Ford is to be commended if they want to step up and warn their customers," he said. In the meantime, the safety agency is trying to come up with a test that will simulate the effects of aging. Congress asked for the test as part of legislation that followed the Firestone tire recall. The regulators expect to announce a proposal next year. For its part, the tire industry says it is also conducting research into tire aging, but there is no data to support a specific age limit for tires. A tire's performance and safety is determined more by factors such as climate and proper maintenance, said Dan Zielinski, spokesman for the Rubber Manufacturers Association. "We haven't seen the data that shows a tire will fail after a certain date," Zielinski said. But the issue is seeping into public consciousness. New York state lawmakers are considering a bill to require tire makers to put "born-on" dates on tires sold in the state. In the meantime, examples are accumulating of people who have suffered sometimes fatal consequences for driving on old tires. "I don't believe tires are failing more now," said Mike Danko, an attorney for the family of Bobby Crane, 17, of Danville, Calif., who died after an older tire on the SUV driven by his older brother shredded and caused them to crash. "But before, nobody looked at age as the cause of failure."

Anyone else have an OEM 240Z antenna gear that is in very good (functional) condition? It's looking like I'm going to need one as well. If anybody knows where I can get one, please let me know. Thanks.

Are you referring to play in the "u-joints" themselves or in the drivetrain as a whole? There should be ZERO play in the u-joints themselves. If you are meaning that when you rotate the wheel/axle in one direction and then reverse the direction of rotation, there is usually some "play" to be noticed, but it should come from inside the differential (I believe it's related to the backlash adjustment of the ring and pinion gear) but the "play" should NOT be related to the actual u-joints themselves. Any play in the actual u-joints indicates a bad u-joint. BTW, good quality u-joints will cost more than $7 but are worth the added cost.

Last time I looked MSA was selling Repro 240Z Glovebozes for $32 ea. Fellow member MikeW was also making them a while back. I can vouch for the excellent quality of Mike's product.

I think that I'd remove and reinstall the driveshaft first, but I'd rotate the flange on the diff 180 degrees before the reinstall. If that doesn't fix it, I might take the d/s to a shop to check it's balance. If the problem still persists, I'd suspect either the trans or diff has issues. You didn't say if these were rebuilt units or straight out of the junk yard/parts car/whatever. It's always a guessing game when installing parts that weren't from a car that you've driven before and really know the condition of. Good Luck

Your best bet is to wait until you have the pan(s) that you are going to install in your hands before you start cutting out old metal. Just a thought.

Gav: More likely I'd get a festering, puss filled sore on my lip. :devious:

No, I don't know of a place. But, the best place to ask a question like that is at www.Hybridz.org . The guys over there are heavily into engine swaps and major modifications like that.

using up Vacuum (which comes from the intake manifold) by repeatedly activating the MasterVac. good luck fixing the problem (BTW, I don't think the MasterVac is the problem or it would affect both front AND rear brakes.)

Rob: I know very little about the pictures. I was told that they were all taken on 5/16/05 in the Perth area. I thought that they were pretty cool looking also.

a friend just sent me these pictures of a storm in Perth on Monday May 16, 2005. His info indicated that although there was a lot of damage done by the storm, no one was seriously injured.