Bambikiller240

In order for the pictures to have any validity it would have to be KNOWN with 100% absolute assurance that the car pictured was not damaged, repaired or modified in any way. Otherwise it's all hearsay. This would be virtually impossible to verify in a open internet forum. i.e. How many of us are original owners of our 30+ year old cars and can document the entire history of said car? FWIW, No 1972 240Z's were imported with A/C from the factory, it simply was not available. Dealers added A/C units to vehicles, they can at best be described as "factory authorized". While the roof and quarter panels were welded together, the "seam" was "leaded in" (small amounts of bondo may have been used on top of that) at the factory and the seam was not visable on new cars, and should not be visable on a low mileage, well kept vehicle. It generally only appears after years of chassis flex, or damage to the car.

Would that be the same as a "poll"? My recollection (don't have my manuals with me at work) is that the vacuum hose should be disconnected and plugged up when setting timing. That is the way I have always done it.

The bumpers on 240Z's look great, I agree, but if you've ever been in a minor "fender-bender" with them you'll know that they fold up like cardboard. They provide virtually no protection to the bodywork. The larger and FUGLEY bumpers that began to appear on US market 1973 240Z's and continued to grow larger as years went on, have an energy absorbtion system that helps protect the bodywork MUCH better. PS To install thew 240 bumpers on a 280Z, I'm told (2nd hand info) that you need to remove all of the old bumper mountings (not just "collapse" them) and use the mount brackets for the 240Z style bumper

I'm sure it would vary widely. When I was looking to buy my Z in 1999, I spent 4+ months looking at every 240Z I could find in the area (Alameda and Contra Costa counties, near S.F.) 90% were rusty, or chopped up in some way (i.e. sun roof, major elecrical problems, or really clapped out), the rest were either over priced, or sold by the time I got to them. Southern California may be a different story, but a rust free, decent running condition 240 in Northern Cal was going for $3K+ easy, and selling quickly. The price has most likely risen since then. After more than 4 months of searching, I found a one owner, all original, unmolested early 72 w/ 124K miles........and jumped on it. For $1K about all you will get around here is a Fred Flintstone car.

A good place t6 start is the How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car book by Wick Humble. Available from Motorsport Auto ( www.zcarparts.com ) among other places. www.ZHome.com has a lot of information on early Z cars also.

Quickest and Best way I can advise is to contact Chloe at Midwest Z. Her user name on our site is "mwz". Send her a Private Message or email her at parts@midwestz.com with your inquiry. Best price and best service you'll find.

Yep, that the one who sounds like he ingested a dozen Qualudes, and has the personality of a bar of soap.

OEM dashes are getting very hard to find and are very expensive when found, and they have not been manufactured for some years. One member has a fibreglass dash that he sells, but recommends it for race cars only (if I remember correctly). I have not seen or heard of anyplace else offering a dash for 240Z's

Just wondering how the members who sent dashes out to Dashboard Restorations really feel about the product that they received back. One person has vaguely mentioned some sort of dissatisfaction, wile another has indicated satisfaction. This service is something that I may be interested in in the future, so I'd like to hear in more detail what has pleased (and displeased) the folks who have done business with this vendor. If anyone is dissatisfied, have you discussed this with the vendor? I placed this thread in "Open Discusssions" as it doesn't seem appropriate to place it in the Vendors forum since someone may post dissatisfaction with the product/service.

I think that was Mario's WIMPY kid in the commercial.

Scirocco's were/are a Volkswagen product.

I enjoy many of the shows on SpeedTv, such as the F1 coverage, British Touring Car races, European Touring Car, Aussie V8 Supercars, World Rally Championship, Jet Boat races, (only the) "Inside NASCAR Show", and some of the "specials" about Porsches, Ferrari, old F1 documentary films, and Wind Tunnel w/ Dave Despain. HOWEVER, the "other" NAPCAR shows are a bore, the infomercials make me puke, and Speed Racer is an insult to the intelligence of viewers (at least this one, anyway). Most of the NAPCAR races are a total bore, though a few (Sears Point, Watkins Glen, Bristol come to mind) can be fun to watch.

Would you like one?

Dr. Ruth

SNORE, SNORE. :sleepy: :sleepy: Sorry Rick, guess we will be disagreeing on this subject. I can't help it, for me it's about as interesting as watching Flies reproduce. All of that time, money and effort put into something that simply disappears the next day. Seems to me that the effort, and dollars could be put into something that is more lasting an actually benefits people.

Steven Wight's comedy is an acquired taste. I haven't acquired it. He's the one comedian that annoys me more than Gallegher. IMHO, The material is funnier when delivered by anyone else, even in written form it's funnier than when he presents it.

Whiskey, now there's an idea! Think I'll go grab me some. Thursday was the first good day at work? This week? I'm just finishing up two days off, have to go back to "hell" tomorrow. Too bad I didn't win the Lotto, mebbe next week. yeah, right!

No pins up top, just hinges. FWIW, ther were no options available on 240Z's from the factory to my knowledge. True you could get a car with either an Auto or Manual trans, but everthing else was standard from Nissan. Dealers added stuff to the car as "Factory Authorized" options, but they were sourced in the US from aftermarket manufacturers. Wheels, Stripe kits, A/C, Sun Roofs, and Louvers, etc.

What do you have against Dario Franchitti? Did he beat you out on proposing to Ashley?

Forgot to attach the diagram I had.:stupid:

The fuel system "vent" hoses DO rot. I would pull the interior plastic panels before starting the job to get to them and see how hard or rotten they are. You can replace all but one of the hoses with generic "fuel/oil" rated hose. The one that has a 180 degree bend in it is th only one that I would order from Chloe, or a dealer, or MSA, or whomever. Be VERY careful of the rubber boots that seal the hoses as they go through the chassic to under the car. They are not available from the dealer. They reproduction parts for them ARE available from Banzai Motorworks in MD, or if you can find shrink tube of a large enough diameter, you could use that to seal the entry/exit of the hoses to the underside of the car. Check out THIS WEBSITE for information that will help you. You don't need to order the generic hose, as it is readily available from any well stocked Parts Store. Oh, and be careful to not damage the O-ring that seals the Fuel Guage sender. They are available , but probably not from a parts store.

My Louvers are dealer add-on's. There were/are no "factory" louvers for 240Z's. The ones on my car do have a funky "pull-pin" kind of latch at the bottom two corners.

Only advice I can give is to get the car on stands as HIGH as you can to give more room underneath when the actual lowering of the tank occurs. Flush out BOTH of the fuel lines while the tank is out of the car and start with a clean, new filter. Depending on the condition of the inside of the tank, you might want to consider having it sealed while you are at this. Saves on having to do it later if/when rust develops.

They ARE made BY Earl's, FOR MSA. They MAY differ from the product sold BY Earls on the site or sold to other retailers. What I was told by one of the salespeople (a very knowledgable guy,who no longer works there) at MSA when I bought mine, was that the lines made by Earl's and sold by MSA had not been certified by DOT, which involved a so-called "Whip Test" where the hose and an attached caliper are swung around (as if the caliper had become separated from the suspension) and must not leak or fail in this test. Is this of any interest? If my brake caliper becomes separated from the suspension, I EXPECT there to be performance issues!! (even IF the hose doesn't leak!) I have used my set for four years, inspected them 3 or 4 times as part of normal maintainance, not due to any fear that they may fail. They work great, and I have no concern as to whether they will or won't continue to do so. Life is about choices, one can choose to buy a higher priced product with a Government certification label on it if that makes someone feel safer; or choose a product of similar high quality without the label at a lower price. It's your dime, but ask your self this: How much difference does the label make when dealing with a reputable company with a history as long as Earl's and MSA? Only YOU can answer for YOURSELF.