Bambikiller240

This is true, but you, ZmeCruise, and Alfapuppy are the only ones that are making excuses for not posting photos. So come on, and post. I promise that you won't hear any of the laughter (we'll be Vewy, Vewy Quiet!) :devious:

GWB and Cheney are taking care of that with all the billions of tax dollars they're pumping OUT of the taxpayers pocket's and INTO the pocket's of their pals at Haliburton and Bechtel, in order to "rebuild" Iraq and to get the OIL out of Iraq, at a hefty profit.

If the "hot" never comes in contact with the metal due to anti-freeze properties, how does a radiator cool the "hot" water. The heat must be transfered to the metal so that air flow can transfer the "hot" out of the closed system into the air as it flows through the radiator.

It's already posted under Tech Articles >Cooling System Flush and Anti-Freeze

I'd have the radiator backflushed and probably Rodded out. Lots of sediment could be packed into the core blocking flow through some of the tubes can't help with this one, sorry The way I've done it is with a garden hose with a high pressure nozzle. Filling from the bottom hose until it pours out the thermo housing, then releasing the garden hos so the block drians in a rush. I do that until no more sediment comes out of the block. I never use chemicals, as I fear they will do damage to the aluminum head. Just my opinion. ****Look for a Cooling System Flush and Anti-Freeze Tech Article to be posted later today. Carl

Hi Matt: Yes, I live in Pleasanton, but Thunderhill is many hours away from me, up north. Pleasnton does get a lot of fog, as we are in a inland valley, so we get what is called "Tule fog" that hugs the ground. I haven't taken the car to T-Hill yet, but one of these seasons, I plan to.

DeeDee, check your Private messages.

I'm assuming that you are refering to the engine side of things. You can either connect the two fitting on the engine via a "loop" of hose, or you can plug each with a 2-3" piece of hose and a bolt to form a plug, and a hose clamp. Does not really matter which way you go about it. Where do you live in So Cal that you don't need a heater/defroster? Windows don't fog? Carl

prolly hard while painting. How do I get a job doing that kind of "art"work

Au contrare, my pic has been posted since Friday. You, James, and Alfapuppy (among others) and the female members (DeeDee excepted) are the laggards. Come on now, we know you have a digicam PS, is it just me or is DeeDee CUTE or WHAT?

Bad Tailshaft seal?

Like women don't do that to themselves all the time, right? Pssst, it's prolly OK as long as he didn't make the carpet match the drapes. :stupid: :tapemouth P.S. Your picture is still missing Keith....................we're waiting.

The following is information that I "saved" from the IZCC Mail List a year or so ago. I have not looked into buying or installing, so I cannot confirm this info is 100% valid. You'll want to make your own measurements, and talk to Griffin. ----------------------------------------------------- The Griffin Rad isn't bolt in, it requires at least $10 or so of Home Depot or similar/simple bracketry to bolt it in and PN's have crossed this list a few times/as well it's documented on a few web sites. Z/ZX guys are using their Winston Cup issue rads in 22” or26” x19” size AIR. Measure b/t your frame rails and get the one that will definitely clear..../griffin tanks may add a hair to their measurement was a comment from one buyer/just check as usual with griffin as they're great for phone info etc/just order elsewhere as it's cheaper! Like Summit Racing or ?????? 125202 should be the 24x19 1" tubes 125222 .......................26x19 1" tubes FWIW, www.jagsthatrun.com sells a nifty bolt on bracket to cradle the bottom of your radiator/ it bolts onto your current towhook mounts without much effort (my dad just used it for his V8 conversion, no mods to your car) or you could make your own if you have the time/resources to get a little creative, then you can use most any top cover or homemade piece of L bracket (one friend used the L brackets for fenceposts at Home Depot), you already have one or two nuts on top of that rail beside your rad you can bolt into (one dead centre on many Z's I've noticed)

BUZZZZ, Wrong Answer! (but it IS a nice fantasy, Steve) Now we know what other website you hang out at!

I thought this was pretty cool. check it out EDIT: OK, I fixed it. Should work now. SIZE matters

Fear not! IMO, This clown will earn a Darwin Award soon enough. People this stupid usually don't learn from their mistakes.

You can call her, or email Chloe

Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX offers discounts to Z club members. HOWEVER, I'd contact Chloe at Midwest Z first as she seems to be able to beat the prices of the dealers on OEM parts prices, and gives excellent customer service. (She's also an advertiser on our site, and as such, she helps support our club)

The Flow Guide Valve is just for emissions control. It routes vapors from the fuel tank to the crankcase if your engine IS NOT running, or to the aircleaner if the engine IS running. The cracked hose will not affect engine performance. As for carb oil, I use 20 wt oil and I bought a small old fashion "oil pump can", the kind with a trigger and flexible spout to top up my carbs when needed.

Rumor has it that Mike is "renting" that hair from The Hair Club for Men. :stupid: Sorry guys, but it looks like most of Victor's bottles are close to empty. There may not be enough left to go around.

, and I have no comments for a change!:tapemouth

OK now, *most* of the "regular" guys (with notable exceptions 2ManyZ's and ZmeCruise) have posted pics. But that doesn't mean that the rest of the members shouldn't post their pictures. TIME TO TAKE IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL, it's time for the female members to step up to the plate! mwz (Chloe!) zfreak72 (Kelly!) (I've already met you, but most others haven't) gealicpride! (Shannon!) I'm sure there are a few others. Come on now, who wants to be first?

Nissan OEM seal are the only way to go IMHO. Others can tell you of problems getting their doors to close properly when using the kit made by Precision, which is the only company to my knowledge that still makes seals for 240/260/280Z's. That is what VB and MSA sell, I don't know what Troy at TIR is selling, but I'd suspect it's the same one from Precision. My $.02

Sheesh, I looked and looked through the thread over and over again, and still missed the reference anyway!:stupid: Time for new glasses, and/or a brain transplant.

Conrad?? Conrad Who? Did I miss something? :cheeky: were you offering Alan one of your spare phone books, Steve? ( just pulling your leg, OK?)