Bambikiller240

Greg (Smokey) could have prevented this situation if he had caught an earlier flight to rescue the car from the Snow Monster. Now, the salted roads of CO are the least of PrOxLaMuS© concerns. :dead:

Is this repairable? Yes, certainly repairable. Cost, well depending on how much work you can do yourself, it may be considered "Totalled" Parts are not Cheap unless you can get a Parts car to steal from, and Labor costs will kill you. When "Bambi" leaped in front of me, I needed: (all new parts) Left Fender Front Bumper & mount brackets Headlight Assembly LH Sugar Scoop Grill Hood Straighten Radiator Support (very minor damage) Paint Cost for all work to be done by Body Shop = $4000.00

I've seen a few of the AAMCO mats on auction at eBay over the years, and I do not know if they put their name on the matts, but the ones that I saw looked much different than the ones Mark photographed. The ones I saw had a big "Z" for a logo instead of the "DATSUN" shown on Marks mats. They also were covered with many deep grooves to hold water. I do not know if they made other models of mats for the Z's that were different.

ZTherapy recommends the Carb Pre-heat water be connected only if the car is cold-blooded to distraction. The hose to direct air from near the exhaust manifold to the carbs will help the car warm up quicker, so Yeah, I'd hook that up. You can ge the aluminized hose from a local parts store for next to nothing. It's really cheap. Here's a post to the IZCC Mail list that I saved in case I needed to fix my hatch glass defroster: >Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 23:07:45 -0600 >Subject: <240> RE: Rear Window Defroster > >Henry wrote: > >I have a 1972 240z. The rear defroster does not work that well. >Only the middle element on the window works. Any ideas? >Henry Tom wrote: What can happen is that the connectors get corroded, the feed circuit wiring stops working, or the grid on the window gets scratched away. You can fix these things, but it takes patience and some great eyesight if the problem is in the grid on the window. Try the feed circuit wiring first. Do a continuity check on the connectors coming from the car to the grid. If you get continuity, then check the connector on the window the same way by touching both output sides with the checker, bypassing the grid itself. If the connector checks out OK, then the problem is most likely in the grid itself... Otherwise, fix these first and try again. Here's where the fun comes in. I purchased a kit for grid repair at my local auto parts store. It contained a small bottle of copper colored fluid and a brush, plus a cardboard template, and instructions. They were actually readable! You'll also need a grease pencil that's used to write on glass, to mark the breaks in the grid. The net of it is that you need to find the breaks, use the fluid to bridge them, and you're in business again. The problem is finding the breaks... The best way I've been able to do it is to have humidity in the car on a cold day, turn on the engine and rear defroster and look carefully along the grid where it didn't start to clear for small spots (maybe the size of a pencil eraser) where there was some clear glass. These are the sites of the breaks. I marked them with the grease pencil, turned off the car and defroster, and wiped the glass dry at those points. Then I applied the stuff and let it sit for a couple of hours before repeating the process until I got the grid repaired.... A long process to be sure, but it worked. Hope this helps! Tom Bell IZCC 2802

And I respect you and your knowledge about these cars as well. Don't really know how I forgot about the E88 Intake casting. Sending you a PM on another subject.

Hey, watch it there buddy, I only swing one way. Camel toe is my game, I ain't no hot dog man! I can't do the conversion either, that's why I did a Google search and found that site where you just plug in the lbs. or kgs. and it does the rest for me/or you.

DREAM JOB!

Royce: OK, here's the inventory that I have. 2 - E-88 Intakes with Water to Carbs. 1 - E46 Intake without Water to Carbs. My mistake :stupid: Carl

Hi Royce: I'm 99% sure that what I have on the car is an E46 and I'm 100% sure that it has carb water provision. Though I have defeated that provision with some hidden plugs in the water hoses. I don't have the car with me, so I'll check to confirm the casting number on my way home. PS I KNOW that you have torn apart far more Z's than I have.

Hi Royce: My 1972 240Z (mfg 11/71) came from Nissan with an E46 intake which does have provision to route pre-heat water through the carbs. I've never seen an E88 Intake or an E33 ,though I remember a balance tube assembly having a "something"33 casting number mounted on an N36 Intake.

E88 would be the casting number on a cylinder head. The casting numbers on the 240/260Z intakes are either E46 or N36 (one or the other)

greyghost: I want your Mullholland Springs! I'll send you a PM in a while. I'm at work right now.

Steve's 2460 lbs = 1115.5 kg 240Z-freak's 2150 lbs = 975.24 kg 260DET's 1270 kg = 2810.86 lb conversion calculator here

Later Z's (I do not know when the change occured) had the Thermo Housing with three bolts needed to hold the cover to the housing. Sounds like they gave you a gasket for a 240 and your L28 was out of a car that had the other (3 bolt) Thermo housing. I've had the same situation with the Thermostat looking OK and operating OK in a pot of water, but it had obviously not worked earlier when installed in the engine, Never did figure out why, but now days I routinely change the Thermostat at the first sign of any unusual heating or lack of heating of the engine. I try to have a couple of new ones, and gaskets in my parts stores.

Yeah, Rick, I've been checking out the Aussie slang webpage a bit. I used my two favorites in the recent post, though I haven't read the entire dictionary yet. I have noticed that there are actually quite a few phrases that are used in the USA as well as in AU, but the really "colorful" phrases are specific to OZ. Guess I'm going to have to try to spread the word on this side of the pond. Some of them are too good to not share.

Hi again Alan: When you say "black tar-board" are you meaning the thin material that is actually stuck to the metal floorpans? I'll explain why I ask. Now we're getting to something that I have been wondering about since Kats posted the pictures of his "jute" pads. On my US Spec 240Z which I bought in un-molested condition from the original owner and equiped with carpet; there is the black "tar-board" stuck to the metal floor, then there are TWO pads, and then carpet. The lower layer of "pad" is dark and sticky as some have described, and then the upper pad is light or tan colored and not sticky. This upper pad installed in my car looks like the item called "jute" by kats and shown in his pictures. The Transmission tunnel of my car only has the "tar-board" (significantly thicker than the tar-board on the floorpans), and the dark, sticky pad and then the diamond vinyl adhered directly to it, not the three layers shown in the illustration (unless the "Mat" is the vinyl). I'm wondering if the US Spec HLS models had different (or additional) padding to what was supplied on models for other markets? I hope that you don't mind Alan, but I've attached a modified version of the illustration that you posted with the corrections to the captions included in the image. If you don't like what I've done, I can delete it or modify it to suit you

A Long time ago I had a 73Z with Flat-top carbs, but the air cleaner can was NOT the kind you describe with the added lower area, etc. It looked Like the ones we both have though perhaps the dimensions were different, but at one time (way back then) I got a filter from a local parts house that was too thick to fit in the can. I don't remember how the situation was resolved, but I must have gotten the right filter somewhere, as I would never run a street car without a filter of some kind.

Daniel: Just checked my air filter element and it is 2 3/8" thick also. I know that there are two air filters for 240Z's, Motorsport Auto's catalog shows one for 70-72 and another for 73-74 (obviously 74 would be a 260) MSA's P/N 18-9010 is for 70-72 $12.92 .................18-9011 is for 73-74 $12.95 Maybe it is the later air filter that is narrower? Frankly I've become confused since mine is different size than yours, though from the picture, your air cleaner can looks just like mine. Maybe the best bet is to contact MSA or another place that would stock both filters and ask them to measure, then order the appropriate one. Now, ZTherapy was selling an adapter to use the later style aircleaner with round top (early carbs). Is it possible that your car came with boat anchors and was converted to Round Tops? Is there an adapter plate of any kind mounted on the Round Top Su's between them and the air cleaner can? Just throwing out questions.

Bonzer there mate! Thanks for the endorsement, Rick. I've met Kelly (and her father) a year or so ago. Nice people, but I too am closer to her fathers age than her age. I'm not sure she could keep up with me. Perhaps she would be put off by my Awning over the toy shop, or would feel that she's gotten the Rough end of the pineapple with me?

I have had bad luck with the brands sold in local parts stores like GMB, etc. My opinion (others may disagree) is that Nissan OEM u-joints, or Spicer Heavy Duty ones are the only way to go if you want them to last a long time. I also reccomend taking the driveshaft to a machine shop for installation (after you remove driveshaft from the car) unless you are very experienced with removal and installation of j-joints, and have a press. It will cost more than doing it yourself, but will be done quicker and correctly. just my $.02

It could be a Clutch Release bearing too, but you'll never know until it starts to "scream" constantly. U-Joints are far more likely IMHO to be the cause. When they start to fail there is very little to no play, however that changes dramatically in a short period of time. The noise will occur more frequently and loudly, soon vibration will become apparent, followed quickly by total destruction. The only "help" I can give you is the warnings and advice I've already posted. Good Luck.

Yes, up until the point in late 72 when they switched to the flat-top carbs. I'm going out to work on my car, I'll measure the actual thickness of my air filter and post it later this afternoon or evening,

How do you mean that the U-joints "look good"? Did you check for any slop in the movement of them, or roughness in the motion? The only way I know to really check them out for damage that would cause slight noise (as opposed to the major noise that would be accomanied by vibration) is to pull the driveshaft and rotate and wiggle the u-joints in all directions while looking for slop AND feeling for roughness within the yokes. I do not know if the U-joints in your car are causing the noise problem (only a thorough inspection can tell), but I'll warn you that you do not want the U-joint to completely fail and come apart while driving the car. Such a failure will beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel of your car (and may ruin brake and fuel lines that run through the tunnel) and most likely will ruin the driveshaft as well.

Yes, as they get broken apart by shifting action over the years, the pieces fall into the transmission and either get ground up or fall to the bottom of the case. When I have drained transmissions (hot) I have seen small chunks of bushing in the drain pan.

I don't know when the went to the one with the "flap" either. To my knowlwedge there are 3 types of air cleaner assemblies for 240Z's Earliest is the one you have Mark, then the one shown by 240ZMan which both used the thinner filter element, then the one for the Flat-Top Boat Anchor carbs which used a thicker filter.