Bambikiller240

Are you aware that he 240Z's had wiring built into the wiring loom for driving lights? Up front, near the horns, feel around on the wiring loom for a bulge near each horn. That is the connectors for driving lights. It has been folded back and wrapped in tape from the factory. ***Now I'm no electrical wiz, and I don't know what amperage you would draw with the lights you bought. Also, I don't remember where the other end of those wires ends up, so you'd have to look at a schematic and look around under the dash (probably). Anyway, just thought I mention this.

Hi Bruce: Without getting into a BASHING of the previous ZTherapy owner or his product; can you enlighten us on what changes have been made to the SU's currently being sold by your company to make them better than before? BTW, Were you at the MSA show in 2002? If so, I may have met you on the bus tour to the Nissan Museum. Regards, Carl

Here's a copy of an email posting to the IZCC Mail List from the Crew Chief for Chet Wittel Racing, who won 2 SCCA ITS National Championships in a 240Z. Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:11:51 -0600 Subject: <L6> Exhaust advice and muffler reccomendation needed I'd stick to a Dynomax Super Turbo. Much less obnoxious sounding than a Flowmaster. I think the P/N is 17723 for the 2.5 diameter in/out, you're on your own for stock pipe size. Only loses 1hp at the wheels over a straight pipe in my tests. Keith Thomas Crew Chief Chet Wittel Racing

Finally! That Forum has needed a good cleaning for a LOOOOONG time. Thanks.

Having never done this, I'm probably not the best one to answer, but...........my understanding is that the strut housing needs to be sectioned (shortened) and the coil-over spring perch must be welded onto the housing. 2ManyZs, you can chime in anytime as I'm sure you know more about this than I do

Yeah, Alfa; I'm not sure what the deal is either. It never bothered me. It is bigger than the ones they use in cars now, but back in the late 60's and early 70's when these cars were produced, "micro-electronics weren't all that "micro" and were much more expensive to produce.

Sorry, No Picture, but he's refering to the switch assembly that turns on the parking and headlights on a 240Z. It is sort of "bulbous" at the end on a narrow "stem" from the steering collumn. Thus "potato on a stick":stupid:

If you mean the type shown in the picture I posted, Yes. That pic came from ground control. If you mean the 260/280 type mounting to the cross-member, I don't know. But I'm sure if you send an email to them (check their website for "How to Contact Us") they will respond with an answer. Good Luck in your search!

It could be, but I am not sure, as I've stuck to 240Z's and really haven't ever been under a 260/280Z since the late 70's. The "other" after market type that I was mentioning simply bolt through the floor pan and do not use the cross-member that you are refering to (I now understand which one you mean). When this style of bar is used (through the floor, not on the cross-member), you have to use huge washers to back it up or the bolts will rip holes in the sheet metal floorpan.

Here's the Pic from Ground control with the brackets I was referring to. They replace the stock ones on either side of the Diff. The rear part of the A-arms mount to them.

In the 3 240Z's that I've owned, there has not been any brackets to allow for installation of a Rear Sway bar. I've had a 71, 72, and 73 model Z. The picture that I have is from Grond Control www.ground-control.com but I *think* that Suspension Techniques also sells a rear bar that mounts from the rear, but would also come with mounting plates to replace the rear suspension mounts. I'm not clear on what cross member you are refering to.

On US Spec 240Z's there was no rear sway bar available. The lower A-Arms do have places for the end links of a sway bar to mount. As for mounting sway bar, there are two styles available from after market sources. One requires drilling holes in the chassis just behind the seats to mount it. The other uses brackets that replace the rear Inner suspension mount plates with ones that have a provision to attach the sway bar. Many people prefer the latter design to avoid drilling holes into the chassis. I have a picture at home that I will up load later today which shows that style of kit.

Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable Strut cartridges are considered very good for these cars. There are other coices also, such as Koni struts. A wide varienty of Suspension bits are available from www.ground-control.com including springs, sway bars, adjustable coil-over kits, adjustable camber and caster kits. Many folks replace the rubber bushings with Polyurethane bushings and/or switch to an adjustable coil over spring set up. Suspension Techniques is another place that offers bushings, springs, and sway bar kits for 240Z's.

There are indeed two types of Round Top SU's. The earliest ones have the 4 screw domes that you mention. They are supposed to be more desirable to racers, though I don't know the reason that they are more desirable. It could be that they do not have provision for the engine coolant to preheat them like the 3 screw one do. The 3 screw Round Top SU's are from later 240Z's, like in 1972 (prior to the Flat -top Hitachi's being used in 1973) You may be able to find more info on www.ztherapy.com. They are reputed to be the best rebuilder of SU's in the country. Good Luck!

When my LEFT turn Signal stopped working, it was the turn signal switch causing it. I cleaned mine several time and the problem kept recurring, so I spent the bucks (big ones) to replace it with a new one. There is a thread from last week discussing the different switches and replacement Read THIS THIS THREAD for more information.

Just two months ago, I bought one from Nissan. So there is a fourth source. I am refrring to the rubber one, not the vinyl one.

Simple. www.arizonazcar.com

My understanding is that the Hazards have a different "flasher unit", so I assume tha they are on a different circuit. Do your brake, and/or tail lights work? I think that they are on the same circuit as the signals, since they use the same bulbs. EDIT: :stupid: Err, wait a minute, the Hazzard's use those bulbs too, but as Zs-ondabrain indicates below one circuit is switched and the other is not. Guess I shouldn't type when sleepy

Have you swapped in a new fuse for that circuit? A fuse can look good and still be bad. Try a new one. Have you looked for a wire that might have gotten pinched in your installation of the radio?

I'd be interested so long as the cost remained semi reasonable.

:cross-eye Well, the verdict is in from eBay. Somebody wanted them pretty badly. Wonder how p*ssed he'll be when the first stone on the road flys up whacks a big divot out of one of them?:mad:

What you are describing is fairly common for carburated cars. The thinner air changes the Air to Fuel ratio significantly. The computer controls for fuel-injected engines seem to be able adjust very well to compensate for the altitude, but carbs cannot. Most folks with carburated cars travelling up to the mountains for a brief stay just live with it. If you're going to be there for a longer period of time you might consider adjusting your carbs to operate properly in the high altitude environment. You could start you leaning out the mixture some, though (depending on the altitude and what needles are in your carbs) you might end up needing to change needles to get it running well. I'm doubtful that you could ever get it to run as well in the 5000' mountains as it could nearer to sea level. (but I'm no SU guru, that's for sure)

So James, Did you actually race a 350Z or are you indicating that your time was better than the published data for a 350Z or ? Either way, a 13.5 is pretty good for basically stock. I Think Dreco was getting similar numbers from his 240Z with a 3.1L Rebello stroker motor. I think he also has bored out SU's and a 5 speed.

Congratulatons, sounds like you completed the job successfully! My comments were meant only to indicate that it is safer to have someone with more experience around to keep an eye out for "rookie" mistakes. Doesn't sound like you needed that though after all. Forgetting to undo the mousetraps isn't a big deal, removing them just gives you a bit more room to work. (I usually remove the oil spray bar for the same reason, also I'm afraid that I'll bash it with a wrench and bust it, and they aren't too cheap) Having the cojones to jump in and try new stuff is a good thing. Just arm yourself with all the knowledge you can gather and work carefully. You already know that you can ask any question here and there are many folks to offer help if or when you need it.