Bambikiller240

It sounds like your valves were loose to begin with. Did you remove the little "mousetrap" springs before adjusting the valves? They should be removed, and this should keep the rocker from "springing up" as you described. Also gives a bit more room to work You discovered the difficulty in doing the valves hot, you have to move FAST, or; due to the cooling temps the valves will be adjusted to different specs as the metal contracts as it cools. Keep a close eye on the oil spray bar as they tend to crack and leak right where the tubes are brazed at the ends. It can be hard to see the cracks.

The boot can be replaced from the engine bay. You carefully disassemble the linkage nearest the boot to do it. Should take about 30 minutes the first time you do it. Think first, then disassemble, one step at a time. It isnot difficult, but I cannot describe the step by step process for you. The nylon caps that fit over the steel balls of the linkage can be removed by CAREFULLY prying with flat screwdriver. BE SLOW and CAREFUL and you'll be OK. EDIT: After disconnection the cap from the ball, you unscrew the cap to get rid of the old boot and put the new one on. Then you put it back on the the rod, and snap it back onto the ball. Looks like you'll need to push the old part of the boot out into the engine bay from under the dash to get rid of it. And NOW, LIVE from Kuwait...........Here's Russell!

This is not meant to discourage you from learning about working on your car (actually I applaud you for not being afraid to jump in and try),...............but from the questions you are asking it is my OPINION, that you are not ready to tackle adjusting your valves by yourself. You would be IMHO much better off with someone there to guide you who has done this before. It is not terribly difficult, but it is something that you want to get done right. Adjusting valves on a hot engine must be done quickly and accurately to get it right. Is ther anyone who can help you with this?

There are "feeler" guages used for measuring the gap when adjusting valves and setting the gap on points, ect. Any auto parts store worth a damn (or Sears, etc.) should have them. BTW, my 72 with stock Round Top SU's has the vac advance connected to a small pip at the bas of the front carb. That's the way it came from Nissan.

There is a write up on replacing the Fuel Vent Hoses. It does not describe in detail the removal and installation, but gives great ideas for ways to save on the expense of buying OEM hoses which can be VERY expensive. Has good pictures of the hoses, etc. Dr. Joe Demers Fuel Vent Hose Repair Article NOTE: This was written based on a US Model Z car. I don't believe there would be much (if any) difference to other Z's with the Vapor Recovery Tank system. The article was featured in one of the first issues of Sport Z Magazine

Thanks for the info!

Damn! And I thought it was high priced when ZI bought my new one (two years ago) at $130.00 :tapemouth !!!!

Check the Mfg. date when you get home and post it. I, or someone else can give you the P/N from the CD of Microfiche.

The Headlight Switch is a completely separate part from the Turn Signal Switch. The eBay guy may have sold them together, but they have different Nissan Part Numbers Are the wiring harnesses to BOTH switches incompatible with your vehicles wiring? If not, which one is NOT compatible? What is the Mfg. Date of your car? Found on the Data Tag in the Driverside Door Jam. [/list=1]

Can someone tell me where the convention will be held? Specifically the car show, and the banquet (if any). Are any details available yet? Thanks.

If you can't show some sympathy for your fellow man.........perhaps this isn't a thread you should follow.

St. Stephen's original post indicated that they were tied to a lease for some time. I suspect that it means that either BOTH names are on that lease and/or TWO incomes are needed to pay the rent and living expenses.

Is the 2004 Z Convention actually being held AT the Hilton Long Beach or is this just an ADVERISEMENT for hotel rooms at the Hilton?

Before you seek another relationship, maybe................. http://www.packphour.com/media/ijustwantbangbangbang.swf

That would look good. Maybe with Euro (Rubberless) bumpers.

I'm sure that when you are ready to use the bed, she'll move over a bit to give you room.

Strange circumstance. If I remember correct, there is only one Piston in the m/c, with two seals, each at different locations on the piston (one for each circuit (F & R). Odd that pressure builds to apply the brake in both circuits, but is not released durring normal operation in only one circuit. I don't understand how this can occur. Check with Chloe at www.midwestz.com (she's an supporting advetizer on the club site). I think you'll find she can give you a great deal.

Been there, done that (except for the kids part) It sucks! Hope it turns out OK for you (and Kids)

More grief than St. Stephen has on his plate? Just like the "permanent" arrangements, ya gotta be selective. The lower the rental fee, the more risk you take.

Sorry, I cannot explain it, it just does. Just like a dirty battery cable terminal can cause a no start condition, but you clean it and all is well.

Not being an Electrical wiz so I can only give basic suggestions. Step one, clean ALL the connectors on that circuit (EVERY ONE OF THEM). Corrosion leads to poor connections which result in high current draws to complete the circuit. Victor, or anyone else jump in, as we're reaching the limits of my electrical knowledge fast!

These are a few of my favorite questions: Which circuit is getting hot? Have there been additional power demands added to that circuit (like H4 headlights, or a huge Stereo AMP, or ??) Does it get hot only under certain conditions, or is it hot all the time? [/list=1]

How does it work for " Sum Yung Gai" ( a popular faire in San Francisco)

No Idea, they are different from what we were talking about.

You have assembled something wrong. The clips that hold the cap on HAVE to be in only one place, at "about" 2 oClock and 8 oClock, since the dist can only bolt on two ways. One is correct, the other way is 180 degrees WRONG. Either way, the clips will be at "about" 2 and 8. Do you have a digital camera to post pictures with? I will have to "assume" that you have the distributor installed on the timing cover correct. It sounds like you have the Distributor drive shaft installed one or two teeth off from where they should be. Look in that Chilton manual for a picture of what the Dist Driveshaft is supposed to look like when installed correctly. You'll have to remove the dsistributor to compare what you have to what the picture shows. If you can't get a FSM reight away, try to find a Haynes Manual at a parts store. They are good too, but you still need a FSM if you are going to do serious work on your car.