Bambikiller240

Did you stick a block of wood down the Timing case in between the loop of chain to keep the tensioner located properly? If not you will be removing the Timing cover to get it back together. If you DID manage to keep the tensioner where it belongs, the gear *should* be able to be put back on the nose of the cam. It can be tough as there is meant to be VERY little slack in the chain, for obvious reasons. Let us know a bit more of how you have disassembled this part of your engine. Were you following the information in a shop manual, or flying blind when you did this?

Good to hear that your car is running as it should. Seems like Zedrally and sjcurtis were the doctors who nailed the diagnosis. Enjoy the Ride!

An easy error to make as it was't on the screen for very long, and as you stated it was a night scene. :classic:

One more thing for you to check before spending money is to see if the choke nozzles at the bottom of your carburetors are sticking open (pulled down) and not releasing (back to the closed "up" position) when you release the choke lever. You'll find it easier to check this if you remove the entire air cleaner including the base plate. It sounds like your front carb is running richer. It could be drowning the front 3 cylinders in fuel due to a stuck float or the choke nozzle stuck open. Just a few things to check. Good Luck.

Well now, if you will remember, the Fast Times at Ridgemont High movie was released to Theaters in 1982 which means it was probably filmed in 1981 or very early 1982. The last time I checked, the 300ZX didn't come out until 1984. I rest my case.

Err, Gosh $460 for the MSA Aluminum Rad. Choke, Gag!!!:sick: See Arizona Z Car for a Aluminum Cross-Flow Radiator for $359. Still not cheap, but......$100 bucks less is $100 bucks in my pocket! I would imagine that Virgina Beach IS more humid than my area of Califiornia, but we get up over 100 degrees in the summer 20 to 30 days a year on average.

Hi Richard: I don't believe that the inner A-arm bushings rotate. They slide onto (over) the threaded part of the A-Arm inner pivot point (sorry if I'm not clear here on the name) and then are clamped by the U-shaped brackets. The A-arm tube rotates within the bushing, and it is the rubbing of the two surfaces that make the squeek. As for the Anti-sway bar mount bushings, the bar rotates within the bushing which is held stationary in the same way as described above. Same squeek is possible there. This is the way I understand it to be. Now I'm not Einstein, so if you have differing idea of how it works, jump in and tell me (us) as I (we) are all open to learning new stuff. Maybe we should ask www.ground-control.com or another company that specializes in suspension about this. Too bad you don't have a digital camera (I don't have one either:() as I'd love to see these suspension arms you designed and had made up. I saw some at the MSA West Coast Nationals and they were really neat. For Optimum handling and adjustability they are certainly the way to go. To reiterate, there isn't anything "wrong" with OEM rubber bushings (unless they are 30 years old and trashed). The PU bushing are a very popular replacement item in the US for folks who want a bit more positive feel to the handling, but can't go to solid suspension bearings (heim-joints, spherical bearings, Aluminum/Delrin Off-set bushings, etc) due to the conditions of our public roads.

Hi Naoshi: The two row radiators were just barely able to keep our engines cool in the summer here in Cailfornia, even when these 240Z's were new and the radiators were clean, and in excellent condition. I had my radiator re-cored with a 3 row core two years ago, and added a fan shroud this year. I was having a problem (only in stop and go traffic) with the engine temperature rising on warm summer days. (90 degrees F. and above) The shroud solved that problem nicely. AS 2manyZs suggested, with A/C - a 3 or 4 row radiator is your best bet. I don't know what a dealer would charge for an OEM radiator, but the 3 row re-core of my (originally 2 row radiator) cost me $225.00 and came with a 2 year warrentee from the shop that did the work. I just had it checked by the same shop when I installed my new (rebuilt) motor and it is still in excellent shape, so they extendeded the warrentee for another year at no cost to me. Now that's service.

In "Fast Times at Ridgemont High", Brad's sister Stacy goes on a date to"The Point" with a stereo salesman who drives a 280ZX.

Marty: Since the two cars have different tires (60 series and 70 series) I think you are still measuring (in part) the different tire sidewall heights. The only way that I can see to get a "real" comparison is to measure each car with the same tires/wheels.

They call it a "Z" because Nissan wants the public to perceive a link to the glory days of the past. Too bad they didn't create something to deliver the things that made the original "Z" the success that it was/is.

I could be wrong, but I thought he meant that he installed PU in the Tension Compression rods. (I did this also) The Aluminum/Delrin TC kit that I had on another Z was too harsh for driving on the street. (we have pot holes galore up here in the Bay area) PS to 260DET: I never said rubber bushings caused any problems, I simply maintain that with PU bushings you get more performance out of your suspension.

How much wine are you making? What variety of grapes? Do you buy grapes or grow your own? Do you sell the wine you make? Sorry, Inquiring minds want to know.

I think that is what concerned me most. As Keith pointed out in an earlier reply, the shorter strut had a longer length of piston sticking out, yet a shorter "strut body". That is what concerned me in regard to bottoming out. Longer Piston / Shorter Strut body doesn't make much sense to me if one expects similar range of motion. Margaritas. now that sounds like a great idea. Z Ya!

OK, guys. Thanks. I feel better now that it has been discussed a bit. Kinda wish I had a set them to play with and measure a bit. Remember, like my Mama always says, "Nobody sweats the details like Carl." :stupid:

Please don't hate me Steve. I didn't bring this up to wish you bad fortune or anything. In fact, I didn't bring it it from the beginning because I didn't want to rain on your parade. Since you seemed OK with what was going on. Finally, after holding it in all these weeks, I just HAD to ask the question. Sorry. It is just that I an ANAL about stuff. I was raised and schooled in mechanical stuff by guys whose mantras included, "The right tool/part for the right job." "Quality is Job #1". etc. Compromising was always frowned upon unless thoroughly researched and thought out. If you had to do a job over again because you didn't think things though, or made a dumb mistake one was considered a "wanker" until you redeemed yourself in someway.

Gotcha Keith. Thanks.

Sorry to sound stupid, but is that $126 for one stock rotor ONLY? How much for a kit including stock rotors (2) and the calipers (2) & hardware?

Good Deal! Enjoy the Ride! PS On cold winter days (cold for N. CA that is. 40-50 degrees or less), my car still squeeks a bit though I believe that is due to me not getting grease EVERYWHERE that I should have. Since it's minor and not noticable with with the radio on........ I gladly live with it until the next "required" teardown.

texasz: I don't know about the size of the Quickor company, but they are currently not as big in the Z scene as they once were, which could explain the lack of product knowledge. The 7/8" rear bar that I have is not from Quickor, I got it from Mulholland (a company that is no longer in business) so I can't help on this front either. I'm sure there would be SOME difference in performance between a 7/8" and a 3/4" (6/8") rear bar, but I wouldn't expect it to be a huge difference. Probably only noticable to a VERY good driver. Ground Control (www.ground-control.com) lists a 3/4" rear bar and a 1" bar for $259 for the PAIR. (Also shows a picture of the rear bar kit that shows the bracket I mentioned to you earlier. Maybe you could email the picture to Quickor and they could tell you if that is what their kit looks like.) Eibach (www.eibach.com) seems to list a 1" front and 1" rear bar package, but shows no price or picture. P/N is 6305.140

"People on 'Ludes should not surf the Internet!" Seriously though, In reply to the author of the original post, "Please understand that we are "THE CLASSIC Z CAR CLUB" as in 1970 to 1978 240/260/280 Zcars. 99.9% of us do not and would not own a 91 300ZX. You will find VERY little help to any question about this car here. Not that we don't want to help you, but we can't help you because we don't own a car that is even remotely similar to the one you are asking questions about. SORRY. PS What are you looking at selling? Fuses, Oil Guages or the car?

Thanks for the reply Keith. Yeah, I think I remember that pic you refer to. I hope they work OK for Steve. Not that I was in the market for a pair of these struts, but I wouldn't be able convince myself to buy a "work around" product like this for my car. I'd have to find a brand that still provided the correct item. I have a place for Tokiko to stick that "peg-leg"! :devious:

Hey Victor, just wait until you hit 50 It doesn't get any better as time goes on. Carl "If I'd known that I was going last this long, I'd would have taken better care of myself!" :stupid:

I've been watching this thread for what seems like a month and I am amazed that no one has even mentioned a concern that these "peg-leg" Tokiko strut inserts were not designed for the Z car application that they are now being sold to be used on. Hopefully the ones currently being sold for Z's were originally used on a car with similar weight, etc as the Z car. BUT...... With the "body" of the strut (excluding the peg-leg) being 2" shorter than the original strut, isn't anyone concerned that this strut probably doesn't have as much "travel" (i.e. range of motion) as the originally spec'd strut cartridge. Especially when using short springs, I would be worried about bottoming out the strut and destroying it......and the handling of the car. Anyone have any thoughts on this??? Anyone? After all 2" is not a small difference.

You're short too tanny? After your post about bodybuilding with Arnold, I kinda visualized you as a big strapping guy like The Governator. signed, Randy Newman ()