Bambikiller240

I haven't a clue, myself

I'm not sure about the ZX trans. I was assuming a 280Z 5 speed.

Next time you get that Engineer away from the Exec's, you might tell him that around here we refer to those Carbs as "Boat Anchors". He MAY get a kick out of that.

WAY OFF. The car we in the USA (actually North America) know as the 240Z, and the car others around the world know as a Fairlady Z (along with several other variations) are part of the Nissan Model designation of "S30". HS30 vehicles are RIGHT HAND drive HLS30 vehicles are LEFT HAND drive. Other members can fill in more detail, but that is the short answer to your question.

100% Normal. They are the same P/N. Just that one is installed upside down. Another example of Nissan's cost-cutting when the Z was put into production.

You should not have to cut the floor. Straight forward bolt-in.

Oh, THAT'S what it is. Usually only see that much white powder in an NFL Locker room.

Sway Bars are made of hardened steel, but I don't see why you couldn't drill through one. Not sure if "threads" would be the way to go. BRE springs? Where does one get BRE springs and are they for adjustable coilovers or the stock type spring set-up? Can you elaborate on the "Tubes" that you mentioned. Maybe I'm too sleepy, but I don't understand what they are. If you did all that install work in one afternoon, you were really busy! Wish I could get that much done so quickly. OK, I admit, I'm kinda lazy. Someone told me that an Aluminum bat works better than a wooden one for rolling fender lips. Anyone else know if that is true? I haven't tried either myself.

Thanks for the measurement, Steve W O W ! ! That is short. I'm going to check the end links that came with my bar next time I get the chance. (probably Wednesday) I don't think mine are that size, but the ones you have look perfect on your car. PS, remember to get Grade 8 bolts when you go shopping for new ones.

Sure looks like it should be that way. I'm gonna save this picture for when I get around to installing my rear sway bar. Do you by chance have a measurement on the center spacer for the links you are now using?

Let us know how it all comes out for you Steve. I just went into the room I store *most* of my Z parts in and the rear bar I bought on eBay 2 years ago looks exactly like the one you have. Unfortuately, the end links that came with it are across town at my parents house. I don't remember the length, but they were basically just long bolts with a sleeve that served to separate the bearing/bushing cups. BTW, did you put coil-overs on this car? or how / how much did you lower it?

Do you know the brand of Rear Bar that you're using? Since you bought end links, I'm guessing that you got the bar "used" somewhere? I'm wondering if the bar was meant to use end links that are longer than the ones you have. The way your picture shows the bar installed is the way I installed a Mulholland (Interpart) rear bar on a previous Z. I can't find a picture that shows the end links, but they may have been longer than you describe. (It was a long time ago and memory is hazy)

depending on which Crane system was installed, an adapter may or may not be needed. I didn't need one when I installed a Crane XR700 system.

Which Crane system did you install? They have many models.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9554&highlight=Sway+bars One of my posts in the above thread has a picture I got from Ground Control of that kind of bar. It doesn't show it installed however. The bar "arms" go "over" (above) the half-shafts. Have you tried mounting the sway bar both ways (i.e. upside down from the first attempt)?

A wise choice, I believe. Bring the old one to the Parts retailer and show them the difference. Sounds like the one they gave you isn't the proper one for your car. (Duh, I'm sure you planned on doing just that)

Hi Mark: Was the new M/C itself "identical" to the old one? If so, use the old push rod. 1/4" is a huge difference in push rod length (IMHO). If the M/C is NOT identical to the original, I'd be thinking along the lines that they gave you the wrong one. just my $.02 Carl

Greg (Smokey) could have prevented this situation if he had caught an earlier flight to rescue the car from the Snow Monster. Now, the salted roads of CO are the least of PrOxLaMuS© concerns. :dead:

Is this repairable? Yes, certainly repairable. Cost, well depending on how much work you can do yourself, it may be considered "Totalled" Parts are not Cheap unless you can get a Parts car to steal from, and Labor costs will kill you. When "Bambi" leaped in front of me, I needed: (all new parts) Left Fender Front Bumper & mount brackets Headlight Assembly LH Sugar Scoop Grill Hood Straighten Radiator Support (very minor damage) Paint Cost for all work to be done by Body Shop = $4000.00

I've seen a few of the AAMCO mats on auction at eBay over the years, and I do not know if they put their name on the matts, but the ones that I saw looked much different than the ones Mark photographed. The ones I saw had a big "Z" for a logo instead of the "DATSUN" shown on Marks mats. They also were covered with many deep grooves to hold water. I do not know if they made other models of mats for the Z's that were different.

I *think* you have that backwards, SHE'S the saint in this lifetime! Any wife that'll give you a Z certainly qualifies for that title in my book. ( and she has legs too!)

Sure, she's a Looker, Bryan? Will your wife mind being in the Z Beauties Gallery? You're welcome to add her pictures there if you want.

ZTherapy recommends the Carb Pre-heat water be connected only if the car is cold-blooded to distraction. The hose to direct air from near the exhaust manifold to the carbs will help the car warm up quicker, so Yeah, I'd hook that up. You can ge the aluminized hose from a local parts store for next to nothing. It's really cheap. Here's a post to the IZCC Mail list that I saved in case I needed to fix my hatch glass defroster: >Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 23:07:45 -0600 >Subject: <240> RE: Rear Window Defroster > >Henry wrote: > >I have a 1972 240z. The rear defroster does not work that well. >Only the middle element on the window works. Any ideas? >Henry Tom wrote: What can happen is that the connectors get corroded, the feed circuit wiring stops working, or the grid on the window gets scratched away. You can fix these things, but it takes patience and some great eyesight if the problem is in the grid on the window. Try the feed circuit wiring first. Do a continuity check on the connectors coming from the car to the grid. If you get continuity, then check the connector on the window the same way by touching both output sides with the checker, bypassing the grid itself. If the connector checks out OK, then the problem is most likely in the grid itself... Otherwise, fix these first and try again. Here's where the fun comes in. I purchased a kit for grid repair at my local auto parts store. It contained a small bottle of copper colored fluid and a brush, plus a cardboard template, and instructions. They were actually readable! You'll also need a grease pencil that's used to write on glass, to mark the breaks in the grid. The net of it is that you need to find the breaks, use the fluid to bridge them, and you're in business again. The problem is finding the breaks... The best way I've been able to do it is to have humidity in the car on a cold day, turn on the engine and rear defroster and look carefully along the grid where it didn't start to clear for small spots (maybe the size of a pencil eraser) where there was some clear glass. These are the sites of the breaks. I marked them with the grease pencil, turned off the car and defroster, and wiped the glass dry at those points. Then I applied the stuff and let it sit for a couple of hours before repeating the process until I got the grid repaired.... A long process to be sure, but it worked. Hope this helps! Tom Bell IZCC 2802

And I respect you and your knowledge about these cars as well. Don't really know how I forgot about the E88 Intake casting. Sending you a PM on another subject.

Hey, watch it there buddy, I only swing one way. Camel toe is my game, I ain't no hot dog man! I can't do the conversion either, that's why I did a Google search and found that site where you just plug in the lbs. or kgs. and it does the rest for me/or you.