Bambikiller240

PFFFFTT! Gone.

Locates the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump/distributor drive gear, and crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft itself. There are 3 of them on an L6 crankshaft nose.

ASK THEM!

The 240Z "original" seal does not have the plastic covered metal clips built into the seal. The metal clip part is a separate part. The aftermarket kit from Precision Replacement Parts (sold by MSA and Vic Brit) made to fit a 280Z DOES have the metal clip part actually incoporated into the seal. If you want the original OEM seals, they are available (or were last September) from Courtesy Nissan, but they DO NOT have the clip built into them. The rubber of the seals is much softer than the rubber of the PRP seals, though.

Looks like I was sent an extra piece of the reinforcing brackets. They are a two piece set of brackets, so I have an extra half set! :stupid: Thanks to Chloe at www.midwestz.com my search for some other engine related parts is over! Thanks so much for coming through with hard to find parts for the second time. Your help is much appreciated. I'll be in touch with you in a couple of weeks about purchasing a Fuel Tank Sender, O ring and Lock Ring for my car. Thanks again! Carl

Just got started assembling my engine today and got a most un-welcome surprise. I had purchased what I was told was a complete 3 piece set of the Reinforcement Brackets that came on Late L24 and L26 engines to help spread the clamping force of the individual oil pan bolts in order to minimize the possibility of oil leaks. Well, when I did a trial fit of these brackets it became apparent that I am missing one L shaped piece and instead have two of the other L shaped piece. In short what I have will not fit. Does anyone have a old engine (junk internally or whatever) that has the COMPLETE 3 piece set of these Reinforcement Brackets, and if you do.......would you be willing to sell the brackets to me? I'm on a short time schedule as I have taken vacation to accomplish the assembly and installation of the engine, and POR15 of the trans tunnel over the next couple weeks. PLEASE contact me (email, PM, or reply to the thread) if you have the Reinforcement bracket set from an L24 or L26 that I'm in need of. I can send you money for the parts and express shipping to Northern California. Thank you for any help someone can lend. Carl

Just an FYI for anyone who cares or may need to know Rebello Racing has moved from their long time location in Pacheco, CA . They are just now setting up the shop in the new location. Most everything seemed to be still in boxes today when I stopped by to begg some Woodruff keys for my L24 crankshaft (some idiot seems to have lost my original ones:cheeky: ) The new location is Rebello Racing 511 Wilbur Avenue #A5 Antioch, CA 94509 new phone is: 925-754-4871

Nuff said! PS I ordered a Centerforce Clutch kit and some engine water hoses last Wednesday & they told me it should arrive on next Monday or Tuesday....................It arrived on Friday! Two Days!, (regular Fed Ex Ground shipping is all I paid for)

The MSA catalog is actually closer to TWO years old and they will be issuing a new one in the semi-near future. Availability of some items has changed since the current one was published due to Nissan dumping some the items they used to have available. The prices on the hoses and clutch parts that I just ordered were actually reasonably close to the published prices considering the time since the catalog was prepared. MSA used to have all really knowledgable sales people, but several of them have left. Some of the newer folks are't that good, it is true; however the sales manager Sal Perno is a very fair and most helpful person to speak to if you need more service than you are getting. BUT if you think the customer service at MSA sucks, wait until you start dealing with Vic Brit. Those folks don't know their butt from beans! Shipping takes for ever, and Lord help you if you need to return something. As 2ManyZs says, Andy and Charlie are good sources for those hard to find items. I don't know how they do it, but they can often find stuff that no one else can find.

Good Deal, Al Let us know how it all comes out for you. I haven't used Moyer's myself, but they have an excellent reputation. I'd be interested in your opinion of the service that you get from them. Regards, Carl

Probably not, see the water flow stops when the engine is warmed to operating temperature. The Thermo-Valve at the back of the manifold CLOSES when the water gets to a certain temp (probably same as when the regular Themostat opens). When that Valve closes there is no longer water flow through the manifold and carbs, so it shouldn't cause a problem.

Hole-y Sh*t, Batman! Good thing you opened it up Mark.

Many people do not have them hooked up, or they do like I'm doing where they ARE hooked up, but I've plugged the metal tubes up so water cannot flow through the manifold or the carbs EVER. But it looks Kosher from the outside in case I have to be inspected. The downside is that it takes a little longer for the carbs to heat up from a COLD start. I live in a mild climate so it doesn't affect me much at all except on really cold winter mornings and I just let the engine warm fully in the driveway before I take off to work.

Hi Guys: OK, this may sound like a dumb question and I've hesitated to post it for a week now, but as my Mom says; "Nobody sweats the details like Carl" so I have to ask it even if I sound stupid. I'm using a new (Nissan rebuilt) distributor on my rebuilt engine and the distributor that came from Courtesy does not have the housing that actually mounts to the Timing cover. Yu have to use your old one. Where you separate the distributor from the mounting base there is a "degree'd scale" that has markings for amounts of advance or retard. Now, this is NOT the place where you rotate the distributor to set timing when doing a tune-up. It seems to be set (at the factory?) and never changed. The distributor that I removed from the engine has this set to ONE increment on the scale to the ADVANCE side of ZERO. The distributor from another engine that I have laying around has this set to 1/2 of an increment to the ADVANCE side of zero. Common sense tells me it shouldn't matter much where this is set since you advance/retard the timing by rotating the distributor from a different place on the distributor housing but I want to be sure I don't do ANYTHING to screw up this motor. I have too much time and money invested in it. Any thoughts, experience, or advice will be appreciated.

Though not Z related, this photo from Wrecked Exotics illustrates what can happen when things go VERY wrong. It was a 2002 Pontiac Trans Am Collector's Edition. Drive safely brothers and sisters.

Continued from Part 1, Finally its 5:30, and the car is ready. Can't get the song "On the Road Again" out of my head. About 6:30 my stomach begins to remind me that I haven't eaten since 6:00 this morning, so I fill up the gas tank and pull into Burger King to inhale a Cheese Wopper. This is in Kinston by the way, same town I got stuck in earlier. As I walk back out to the car, I notice a 6 inch dark spot under the gas tank. On closer look I see that the upper hose on the tank is leaking. Damn! Seems to happen only when its full. So now I am thinking, they roll up the streets in this town at 5:00. There's not going to be anywhere open that could fix this thing. I only imagine what they would charge a yankee driving a Japanese car for this reapir job. I decide its not leaking that bad, and hey, its dripping behind the car. I hit the road again, up Route 70 towards Raleigh. I am thinking I will try to get to Winston-Salem, about 4 hours away and then stop for the night. Raleigh is 115 miles away, and by the time I get half way there it starts raining again. About the time I am pulling up to Raleigh, it really starts pouring again. The wipers are slow, but working pretty good. The wind shield is starting to fog up a it 'cause I had to close the window. No defrosters either, ... remember the blocked off heater core. At this point I am marveling at how bright the dash lights are. I never had a 240 with such good dash lights (this is my 3rd)!! Well, its getting a little hard to see, its raining like all get out, and I am trying to decide whether I should stop for the night or keep going to Winston-Salem. I look down again and the dash is black. Double Damn!!! I know what that means. Can you spell FUSE BOX MELT-DOWN!!! Well, I can take a hint as well as the next guy, so I pull into the Hampton Inn for the night. I take the opportunity to look at the original owners' log book. This is not to be believed!! I was expecting to see a few scribbled entries about his gas mileage and oil changes. Turns out that he kept a detailed journal on accounting paper of every fill-up, oil change, repair, state insection, tune-up, and anything that was ever done to the car from the day he bought, right down to the first fill-up at 184 mile on March 4, 1971. This journal is filled in by date, mileage, a description of repairs, place of repair and current gas mileage. All the receipts for everything are in the back of the book. This is the most complete history of a car that I have ever seen!! Turns out that he was vintage racer and he liked to take meticulous care of his cars. The journal shows oil changes every 2,000 miles or less. One was after 300 miles. I see and entry for Koni shocks. Another for front and rear compentition sway bars. Yeah baby!!! I guess I won't need to do the suspension like I thought, and that explains why it feels so planted. I also find a receipt at 68K miles for a complete trans rebuild, including gears, bearings and synchros. Wow!! Another big expense that I was expecting, already done. The journal just goes on and on like this. Its like the gift that keeps on giving! Next moring the news says they got 8" of rain and there was flash flood warnings. Good thing I took the hint. Grab a quick breakfast and hop into the Z, it fires right up. AAAHH, nothing like the smell of an old Z in the morning. Checked out the fuse box, third circuit down on the right, inner side holder is melted right out of the plastic, I put in a new fues and it still works!! That side is just kinda hanging in the air. It's 6:30 am my time when I hit the road. I decided to go through VA, West VA, Ohio, to Indiana and then on to Chicago. The Z is running great. Really strong, cruises at 80 with no sweat. The temp guage stays put at between the "M" and the "P". If I go above 80, it starts going more over to the "P". I have a long way to go, so I decide not to push it too much. Didn't really want any more surprises along the way, and waiting for a car to cool down from overheating did not sound like much fun. The route was a great choice. W and W. VA are beautiful. W. VA was the best, with lots of mountains and winding roads. At one point I see a sign that reads: "Winding Road Next 23 Miles, Slow Down 55 MPH" . I smile, pop in the ZZ Top greatest hits tape and punch the go pedal harder. What a blast! This Z just hugged the road through all those turns like it was enjoying it as much as I was. Kool. Ohio was mostly uneventful till I get Past Cleveland. It starts pouring again. REEEALLLY hard!! There are literally 100 cars pulling off the road. I've got the wipers peddaling as fast as they can. I heard once that it was safer to keep driving, rather than being a sitting duck on the side of the road, so I keep going. Turn on the lights, hope they work. Can't really tell so I put on the 4 way flashers. Just followed a pick-up truck at a bout 30 MPH. I drive out of the rain in about 5 minutes. The rest of the ride home was pretty calm. You can get Sunoco 94 octane on the Ohio Turnpike. I had not seen that in years. I put off turning on the headlights again till I absolutely had to, but it didn't blow the fuse again. I drove over 900 miles that day, in 14 hours. Funny thing is, the Z seats were really comfortable, till about hour 13. I really didn't feel fatigued the whole day. I don't know if it is a testimony to the Z seat design, or I was just pumped to be living out a long-time dream of driving cross country in an old Z. You get a lot of time to think on a journey like this. Toward the end, I am thinking this would be a cool Mastercard commercial. "Gasoline ... $74.85 on Mastercard. Sooner than expected hotel stay ... $87.50 on Mastercard. Driving 1,056 miles cross country in a classic 240Z through the mountains ... PRICELESS. Later, Marty

Hey Marty! Great tale (and sounds like a good deal on the car too!), but as a suggestion.......... you should "cut and paste" Part Two of the story into a NEW REPLY to the Part One thread of this story so the whole story stays together for others to read as time goes by. It's a Classic Road Trip experience to be savored by you and envyed by the rest of us! ***EDIT*** Marty : Hope you don't mind, but I copied and pasted Pt 2 into the original thread for you. Carl

You can search junk yards for a used tank that is in better shape than yours, but you'll likely have to spend serious bucks getting it put into decent shape..............or You might want to consider MOYER"S or GAS TANK RENU for a PERMANENT repair. Your tank CAN be shipped to places such as the ones I or Victory Laury mentioned. Good Luck. PS "GAS TAN RENU" website shows a dealer in Queensbury, NY in addition to ones in Albany and Buffalo

\ Oh. So I've been looking at LAST YEARS photos! NEVERMIND! Time to load the 2003 Pictures! Sheesh! :stupid:

Well, that is strange, because there are pictures on the page you provided the link to which show Mr. K signing stuff! :stupid: :stupid:

Just looked at the photos posted by Guycali. Some nice cars there, but too many Toads in attendance(350Z's) and not enough 240Z's. I wonder why the site for the Z's By The Bay show never mentioned that Mr. K was going to be there again this year?

Different kits come with varying amounts of new parts. I bought "major" kits that had everything including new pistons, bleed screws, seals, springs, copper washers etc; and other "minor" kits have only come with seals, and copper washers. Like others have said, I don't bother rebuilding anymore. I just buy a rebuilt with a warranty or a new one with a warranty. Brakes are too important to take chances on. just my $.02

The link is working for me this evening. Seems to be Hi-Res so loading is taking some time, but I'll be seeing them before too long. Thanks for the photo's!

millimeters