Bambikiller240

Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable Strut cartridges are considered very good for these cars. There are other coices also, such as Koni struts. A wide varienty of Suspension bits are available from www.ground-control.com including springs, sway bars, adjustable coil-over kits, adjustable camber and caster kits. Many folks replace the rubber bushings with Polyurethane bushings and/or switch to an adjustable coil over spring set up. Suspension Techniques is another place that offers bushings, springs, and sway bar kits for 240Z's.

There are indeed two types of Round Top SU's. The earliest ones have the 4 screw domes that you mention. They are supposed to be more desirable to racers, though I don't know the reason that they are more desirable. It could be that they do not have provision for the engine coolant to preheat them like the 3 screw one do. The 3 screw Round Top SU's are from later 240Z's, like in 1972 (prior to the Flat -top Hitachi's being used in 1973) You may be able to find more info on www.ztherapy.com. They are reputed to be the best rebuilder of SU's in the country. Good Luck!

When my LEFT turn Signal stopped working, it was the turn signal switch causing it. I cleaned mine several time and the problem kept recurring, so I spent the bucks (big ones) to replace it with a new one. There is a thread from last week discussing the different switches and replacement Read THIS THIS THREAD for more information.

Just two months ago, I bought one from Nissan. So there is a fourth source. I am refrring to the rubber one, not the vinyl one.

Simple. www.arizonazcar.com

My understanding is that the Hazards have a different "flasher unit", so I assume tha they are on a different circuit. Do your brake, and/or tail lights work? I think that they are on the same circuit as the signals, since they use the same bulbs. EDIT: :stupid: Err, wait a minute, the Hazzard's use those bulbs too, but as Zs-ondabrain indicates below one circuit is switched and the other is not. Guess I shouldn't type when sleepy

Have you swapped in a new fuse for that circuit? A fuse can look good and still be bad. Try a new one. Have you looked for a wire that might have gotten pinched in your installation of the radio?

I'd be interested so long as the cost remained semi reasonable.

:cross-eye Well, the verdict is in from eBay. Somebody wanted them pretty badly. Wonder how p*ssed he'll be when the first stone on the road flys up whacks a big divot out of one of them?:mad:

Thanks Alfa, Now I can figure out what the heck Rick has been saying all this time!

What you are describing is fairly common for carburated cars. The thinner air changes the Air to Fuel ratio significantly. The computer controls for fuel-injected engines seem to be able adjust very well to compensate for the altitude, but carbs cannot. Most folks with carburated cars travelling up to the mountains for a brief stay just live with it. If you're going to be there for a longer period of time you might consider adjusting your carbs to operate properly in the high altitude environment. You could start you leaning out the mixture some, though (depending on the altitude and what needles are in your carbs) you might end up needing to change needles to get it running well. I'm doubtful that you could ever get it to run as well in the 5000' mountains as it could nearer to sea level. (but I'm no SU guru, that's for sure)

So James, Did you actually race a 350Z or are you indicating that your time was better than the published data for a 350Z or ? Either way, a 13.5 is pretty good for basically stock. I Think Dreco was getting similar numbers from his 240Z with a 3.1L Rebello stroker motor. I think he also has bored out SU's and a 5 speed.

Congratulatons, sounds like you completed the job successfully! My comments were meant only to indicate that it is safer to have someone with more experience around to keep an eye out for "rookie" mistakes. Doesn't sound like you needed that though after all. Forgetting to undo the mousetraps isn't a big deal, removing them just gives you a bit more room to work. (I usually remove the oil spray bar for the same reason, also I'm afraid that I'll bash it with a wrench and bust it, and they aren't too cheap) Having the cojones to jump in and try new stuff is a good thing. Just arm yourself with all the knowledge you can gather and work carefully. You already know that you can ask any question here and there are many folks to offer help if or when you need it.

It sounds like your valves were loose to begin with. Did you remove the little "mousetrap" springs before adjusting the valves? They should be removed, and this should keep the rocker from "springing up" as you described. Also gives a bit more room to work You discovered the difficulty in doing the valves hot, you have to move FAST, or; due to the cooling temps the valves will be adjusted to different specs as the metal contracts as it cools. Keep a close eye on the oil spray bar as they tend to crack and leak right where the tubes are brazed at the ends. It can be hard to see the cracks.

The boot can be replaced from the engine bay. You carefully disassemble the linkage nearest the boot to do it. Should take about 30 minutes the first time you do it. Think first, then disassemble, one step at a time. It isnot difficult, but I cannot describe the step by step process for you. The nylon caps that fit over the steel balls of the linkage can be removed by CAREFULLY prying with flat screwdriver. BE SLOW and CAREFUL and you'll be OK. EDIT: After disconnection the cap from the ball, you unscrew the cap to get rid of the old boot and put the new one on. Then you put it back on the the rod, and snap it back onto the ball. Looks like you'll need to push the old part of the boot out into the engine bay from under the dash to get rid of it. And NOW, LIVE from Kuwait...........Here's Russell!

This is not meant to discourage you from learning about working on your car (actually I applaud you for not being afraid to jump in and try),...............but from the questions you are asking it is my OPINION, that you are not ready to tackle adjusting your valves by yourself. You would be IMHO much better off with someone there to guide you who has done this before. It is not terribly difficult, but it is something that you want to get done right. Adjusting valves on a hot engine must be done quickly and accurately to get it right. Is ther anyone who can help you with this?

There are "feeler" guages used for measuring the gap when adjusting valves and setting the gap on points, ect. Any auto parts store worth a damn (or Sears, etc.) should have them. BTW, my 72 with stock Round Top SU's has the vac advance connected to a small pip at the bas of the front carb. That's the way it came from Nissan.

There is a write up on replacing the Fuel Vent Hoses. It does not describe in detail the removal and installation, but gives great ideas for ways to save on the expense of buying OEM hoses which can be VERY expensive. Has good pictures of the hoses, etc. Dr. Joe Demers Fuel Vent Hose Repair Article NOTE: This was written based on a US Model Z car. I don't believe there would be much (if any) difference to other Z's with the Vapor Recovery Tank system. The article was featured in one of the first issues of Sport Z Magazine

How true!

Thanks to Wayne Karnes from the 240z.org mailing list for sharing this! An elderly lady phoned Verizon to report that her telephone failed to ring when her friends called - and that on the few occasions when it did ring, her pet dog always barked right before the phone rang. The telephone repairman proceeded to the scene, curious to see this psychic dog or senile elderly lady. He climbed a nearby telephone pole, hooked in his test set, and dialed the subscriber's house. The phone didn't ring right away, but then the dog barked loudly and the telephone began to ring. Climbing down from the pole, the telephone repairman found: 1. The dog was tied to the telephone system's ground post via an iron chain and collar. 2. The dog was receiving 90 volts of signaling current when the phone number was called. 3. After several such jolts, the dog would start barking and then urinate on the ground. 4. The wet ground would complete the circuit, thus causing the phone to ring. Which goes to show that some problems can be fixed by just pissing on them.

Thanks for the info!

Damn! And I thought it was high priced when ZI bought my new one (two years ago) at $130.00 :tapemouth !!!!

OK, we hate you, BUT we are waiting (and not very patiently) for the promised photo!

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