Bambikiller240

Can anyone PLEASE help me with a part that I seem to have lost while moving my disassembled engine from one work space to another last December? I need that really thick flat washer that goes under the crankshaft Dampner bolt of an L24. Without that washer, the Crank Dampner mounting bolt bottoms out before tightening the Dampner to the crankshaft securely. I'm ready to assemble the engine now that the short block is back from the rebuilder and just discovered that it is gone. I need to find one pretty quickly. I can't believe that I've lost it. I have everything (er, ALMOST everything) labeled and in plastic bags, but I've looked everywhere (all day long) and it is nowhere to be found. Please reply or send me a PM if you can help me out with this item. Thank you. Carl

Gavin: I finally got to view your FLASH website. Nice work. It looks really good. It didn't take too long to load. Maybe because I'm used to my 56K modem connection?

Yeah, definately rare for shipping costs to be quoted. Nice to see that some company has balls enough to publish that info. (I wasn't trying to slam you post, as I'm sure more than one person will be interested!)

But what size wrench did you need to use for the bolts? I think that is what we are talking about here. FWIW, check out Lawson Products next time you need bolts or nuts. I've ordered bolts and nuts from them that have the correct hex head size (even MM sized, i.e. 10, 12, 14mm etc.) and they seem to have many if not all thread pitch variations available as well.

and trying to get parts for it in the US will probably be B I T C H !

The grille?

Motorsport Auto sells (or used to sell) them in white or black

Minilite did make some of their wheels in Aluminium for road car applications. BTW, the Magnesium wheels are also brittle, and can be porous as well. Where an aluminium wheel may bend, a "Mag" wheel can CRACK or SHATTER.

While these may be "unusual" sized, they are still "EVEN" sized.

Can't help you much, but a Magnesium Wheel should be a lot lighter (weight) than an Aluminium wheel. You might be able to find out how to determine what you have by contacting Minilite Wheels and asking them. Just a thought.

The only one that I recall off the top of my head is the 27mm bolt that mounts the Crankshaft Dampner to the Crankshaft. Oh, there are some 17mm ones (somewhere), but at the moment, I can't remember where they are. (outer spindle pins??) I'll check around on Weds or Thurs when I am under the car next.

Hmm, interesting. You certainly could be right about that. I'll try both wrenchs and see if there is any noticable difference in fit. If they "created" a hybrid fitting, I'll have to ask next time if they can "create" the right 10mm fitting. They had mentioned that most of the wait for the lines (almost a month) was for the fittings to be made. I assume they out-sourced them. Thanks for the info. Where did you have your lines made, Walter?

Hi Marty; I did receive the rear brake bridges from ClassicTube. They are in Stainless steel and look great but it took them a while to make them for me. HOWEVER, the Hex size is 11mm rather than 10mm. The diameter and thread pitch is correct for the fittings, but I'm told that Nissan used an oddball (10mm) hex size that isn't available anymore. The extra 1mm gives a bit more "meat" for the wrench to grasp onto, and distribute the stress applied by the wrench, I'm told. Since my flarenut wrench set has 10,11,12,13,14,15mm sizes, and I'm not going for a 100 point resto, I'm OK with the minor difference. Not that I have much choice, since the late style right rear bridge tube is NLA from Nissan. BTW, I wasn't able to find any pre-made straight lengths of brake line with the correct 10mm hex head size to fab my own replacement lines either. Everyone had only the 11 hex head fittings with the correct diameter and thread pitch.

Sorry, Didn't mean to make you mad. Just wanted to get my poke at you in before someone else took a shot at you!

Alfa is one of those unlucky fellows who has no Z, but we still like him and "allow" () him to play in our backyard.

Try Charlie Osboure at Zed Findings , he produces floorpans that get great reviews from people who have purchased and installed them.

less than 30 minutes after your post, the bandwidth has been exceeded. I'll try to check it out again later

Great find! Thanks for the information. I'd been putting off replacing my windsheild washer pump due to the expense (and like you wanting the stock configuration) of a new bottle and OEM pump.

Sorry to hear of such low readings on your engine. As you may know Factory spec on the L24 is 170psi in a new engine, and it isn't uncommon for 30 year old engines with under 200K miles to still have compression readings of over 150psi in all cylinders. With readings of 120 on most cylinders it appears that your engine is very tired. It could be valves that are worn or not closing properly, worn valve guides, or piston rings, or all of the above. (a leakdown test would give you an idea of which is more likely) That cylinder with 40psi is of a more immediate concern. It could also have a head gasket leak from the cylinder to a water jacket, an oil passage, or to an adjoining cylinder, or (less likely) to atmosphere. In any event, at least now you know more of what you are up against and you can try to formulate a plan to address your needs. Yeah, that does sound like normal wear, though with that low reading for cyl #4, I'm surprised that the plug for that cylinder wasn't significantly different in color from the rest of the plugs. It must still be firing, but losing virtually all pressure, and not getting significant excess oil into the cylinder (like from bad valve stem seals), or you'd have found it to be black.

I think that you're going to have to fabricate something yourself. I've never seen them available separately. Trace out an outline of the carb face(s) on paper, then increase the outer dimensions by about 1/4 inch in all directions, Transfer the design onto a good quality gasket material (or BUNA-N sheet rubber) and carve yourself a nice set. A little high-temp RTV can be used to stick them to the air cleaner assembly and you are back in business.

Sounds like George has a WHACK on the Forehead due to him!

No biggie, door should be keyed the same as the doors, as you suspected.

Welcome to the club, Sven!

That's the trouble with you retired guys, you're always rubbing it in to those of us who aren't retired. sign me, Green Carl