Bambikiller240

Agreed. Yeah, he didn't bother to mention the kind of car he's working on (except inthe subject line which I didn't look at either). I just remembered what car he has from previous posts about his floorpan repair saga.

to add to Mark's comments: Riviting in floorpan metal might actually keep your feet in the car, etc HOWEVER, if you get broadsided like our member "thefastestz" ; the car will likely fold up like a crackerbox, and then you'll wish (if you are still able to do any wishing at that time) that the structure had been more soundly repaired.

I think it is a very bad idea. You won't have anywhere near the strength of welding, PLUS vibration will (over time) loosen the rivits and you will end up with even less strength there. I would also think that successfully sealing the whole mess permanently will be another problem. This area of "ok metal......but not all that great" should be removed and replaced. You are talking about a structural part of the chassis. The floor pans do not "just" keep water out and your feet in the car. They connect to the rocker panels and to the firewall and to the transmission tunnel, and to the rear chassis panels to form the lower body structure. Strength here is vital to the safety and longevity of the car. Just my opinion.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Zedrally Why bother Alfa, you don't have a Zed anymore. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- True, but if you don't own a Z, then we don't particularly WANT you to procreate. (Joking on another level here too!)

The Pertronix wiring comes in the kit too short to reach the coil. You'll need to add about 10 to 12 inches of wire to reach the coil. You SHOULD NOT do anything to the distributor. Do not rotate 180 degrees, do not pass GO, do not collect $200! Just add sufficient wire to the Pertronix wires to reach the coil. Your best bet is to solder the extra wires to the Pertronix and put shrink-tube insulation over the soldered connections.

There shoud be a little connector on the wire to connect to the sender unit, however not having that connector is not the problem. It sounds like you have "wiring issues" that are causing a short in that wire to the sender. A parts store should be able to match up a connector that will fit the sender, but you'll need to find the short in your wiring before that will be of any help to you.

Careful with that stuff Steve. Most of those products have Lye, or other caustic chemicals which can adversely affect rubber hoses, and wiring, as well as painted surfaces.

To put the clips back on, just install the clip on the window crank, then carefully start the window crank on the splined nub. Then whack it with your HAND (not a tool). The clip will spread enough to slip over the splined nub and lock into the groove behind the splines. SIMPLE SIMON! Just like Z Kid says!

I've been able to use a "thin" needle nosed pliers to grasp the clip from behind the handle and pull it off of the window crank.

I've never done this job, but I've been told that the way to install the trim strips is to install them in the seal BEFORE the installation of the windsheild. Then follow the directions that kmack has posted for installation of the whole assembly into the chassis.

according to my FSM and my experience, the first mark is 5 degrees AFTER Top-Dead Center. Should be 5ATCC - 0 - 5BTDC - 10BTDC - 15BTDC - 20 BTDC

I'm not sure how it worked in Australia, but in the US, many dealers did horrid things to 240,260,and 280Z's in the name of padding the purchase price (and their profit margins) due to the high demand for the cars. Adding sunroofs was just one of the items that they added.

Well, it IS Friday the 13th; so LOOK OUT VICTOR!

I suspect that what he was referring to was the amount of centrifcal (sp) advance that is built into the distributor. There is both vacuum advance and centrifical advance, plus the mechanical advance that you set with your timing light which taken all together make up the TOTAL advance that can be applied to your engine as it runs.

I suspect that part of the difference is that he is in Australia and quoting prices in AU dollars, not US dollars. May also have purchased higher quality parts that what Kragen sells. There is a vast difference in quality and price of parts out there between OEM and various aftermarket suppliers.

Mostly I'm at home. I tend to stay signed on to the site, even if I'm not at the computer. I do sign on at work, but have to be careful as I view or post, as the gestapo at my work frown on that. I too work at a computer all day, but I look at being online at home as somehow different than what I do at work.

I have never seen these on a 240Z (US Spec) before. The 73, and 71 240Z's I previously owned, and the 72 I currently own (I was the 2nd owner of all 3 cars) did not have these items installed. I wonder if they were an optional part that was not installed on "standard" production cars, perhaps only avail in the US as an after purchase option from a dealer. I'm not sure how much "protecting" they actually do, but if any "pedestrians, cyclists, motorcyclists ( and stray dogs )" get THAT close to my car, either they A) deserve to be hooked, or I intended them to be hooked by the rear bumper end as the car passes close by.

see the edit to my post above

Someone posted a week ago that they were able to buy the single pointer (arrow) Timing Marker from Nissan for about $2.00 ***EDIT*** Wasn't that you? Check out ZPARTS - Eric Neyerlin or DANNY'S DATSUNS . If it came on a 240Z one or the other of these guys should be able to supply it for you. I got my marker from Danny.

The CD sold by Courtesy Nissan IS NOT the same product sold on this website. Purchase of the product from Courtesy DOES NOT support this club! The CD sold here is the only one authorized by Nissan. FWIW, you can download DOZENS of Datsun/Nissan commercials for FREE on the internet. Commercials HERE ; Click on the ".mpgs" button Offering them on the CD is no big deal.

The item on eBay is simply PAGES removed from a manual that BODY SHOPS use to identify, order parts, and re-assemble vehicles involved in accidents (body damage). They also give the estimated time it should take a "professional body shop man to do the work. If you notice the description indicated only body/chassis parts, it never mentions the Engine or Transmission, or Differential. These books are commonly called Estimater Books. They are NOT issued from Nissan. The eBay item is NOT the same information as the CD sold by Mike for the benefit of our club. The CD is a copy of the Nissan issued microfiche sheets that the Nissan parts persons use to identify and order parts. It shows ALL part numbers, what number supercede (replace) items that are no longer available. You can buy the Parts CD (and support the club!) on our website by clicking on the banner ad or look on eBay. Mike places a few auctions for the CD each week under his auction ID of "gholsie" (I may have spelled it slightly wrong)

Drunkenmaster: How does the knotted wire wheel work on undercoating? I'm trying to strip the passenger floorpan for POR treatment, and my arms are killing me from scraping with a putty knife. It worked well for the tarmat inside the car, but sucks for the thick undercoat. Thanks, Carl

VIN won't help you, as no records were kept and the VIN does not contain a paint (or any other) code. Best bet is to look for hidden areas, Inside the tool storage bins, spare tire well, underside of the car, etc. These areas may have escaped the painter.