Bambikiller240

Only you can decide for yourself what value/satisfaction you can get from owning a car in the condition that yours is in. Fabrication of the Tension/Compression rod boxes is EXTREMELY skilled work and will take a lot of time to do correctly. Here in CA, a quote of $2400 would be considered a bargain for that kind of work. Now having said that, I DO understand the "sticker shock" that you are feeling. Work like this can certainly eat up a budget in a hurry. This is one reason it is better to start out with a solid chassis that is as rust-free as possible, and why rust-free cars sell for higher prices than cars that need this kind of work.

No, Power Steering Fluid is NOT the same as fork oil. It MAY have a similar viscosity, but is substantially different. You might try using it, but I don't understand why you'd want to. Fork oil is SO easy to get, and works well. Just my $.02 Carl

Have you pulled the locking tab out of the holder for the connection between the line and hose? Usually folks will leave the mounting tab alone until they have the connection loosened. If you did remove it, you'll need a wrench on the hard line and one on the hose. Spray Kroil, Liquid Wrench or whatever you use for penetrating oil and let it soak into the connection for a while. Use a 10mm flare-nut wrench on the hard line fitting, and BE CAREFUL. You don't want to ruin the flats on the fitting. PS this is a common place for the clutch system to develop a leak. Clutch Hoses are cheap, but you'll probably not find a replacement at your local parts store.

James: I can sure understand your feelings. On the few occasions that I have taken my car to shops, I have done as you and spelled everything out in clear terms as to what I expect done and not done. THEN, I leave the car with them and sweat bullets all day long wondering what I will discover when I arrive to pick the car up. Sadly I have rarely been completely satisfied with the results and/or explanations as to why things were not done as I specified them to be done. The pipes and hose COULD replaced with the right stuff fairly easily (IF they chose to do so) couldn't it? Are they refusing to make it right for you? But that hole.............Well, lets just say if MY car had an extra hole gouged out of it for no reason; SOMEBODY would have my size 13 boot embedding in their arse for a looong time.:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: (metaphorically speaking)

I Cali we have an agency called the California Bureau of Automotive Repair where customers can file complaints regarding shoddy repair work like this. I've never had to file a complaint, so I don't know how much they do for the customer, but that is where I would start bitching if the shop will not make it right to your satisfaction. PS Why did they cut a hole in the opposite side of your radiator support from where the hole was needed?

Ok, We got Oil Pressure, Engine Fired and all appears well! I pulled the Oil Pump and disassembled it. I coated the rotor and sleeve that it "rotates" in with some wheel bearing grease, then re-assembled the pump. Lastly, I filled the pump with oil and re-installed. Only took about 20-25 seconds of spinning the motor on the starter before oil was squirting out of the cam oiler tube ports and the oil guage was reading 30-40 psi. Got better pressure as soon as I fired the motor up. Someone needs to tell the publisher of the "How to Rebuild Datsun/Nissan Engines" book to at least mention how critical it is to PRIME THE FRICK'IN OIL PUMP in the next printing of this otherwise very useful book. Sheesh, what a "minor" bit of information to leave out! :stupid:

I had a leak at the rear of the engine in this same area for over 3 years. Water stains on the block at the rear near the fitting for the heater hose. It definately came from the head gasket, but only put water out to the atmosphere, no water in the cylinders or oil. Compression on all cyls in the 155 to 165 range. I retorqued the head to no avail, so after worrying about it for 3 years, I elected to pull the head and replace the timing components at the same time. 150K on the motor, so it was about time. I ended up having the short block rebuilt (bored .5 mm over) at the same time, even though it was not necessary to stop the leak. Just got the engine fired up two days ago.

Aren't those rags just there to plug up the intake and exhaust openings to the cylinder head so bugs and crap don't get into the head? Looks just like the engine I pulled out of Bambikiller a couple months ago.

The clutch master cylinder for my 72 340Z does NOT have any bleeder screw. All bleeding of the clutch system is done at the slave cylinder.

I'm sorry to hear of the passing of your friend/dog Mira. We sure do fall in love with them, don't we? She is in a better place now, though that is little comfort to those left behind. Cherish the memories of the good times with her.

The book that you mentioned will tell you all about the ENGINE itself, but will not help you with the carbs. Get a Haynes manual and/or a Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manual) Removing the carbs is fairly simple. You drain the cooling system about half way, then disconnect: the air cleaner housing vac hose from the distributor two fuel hoses the throttle linkage operating rod 4 nuts & washers on each carb

I'm sure that if you email Panasport with a request, they can provide contact info for one or more of their vendors who can quote retail prices for you.

The box that I have shows two addresses: C/O 7425 Fulton Ave North Hollywood, CA 91605 and Nissan Motor Corp 3575 ?cholls Ferry Portland, OR

Sorry, can't help with information on the correct needles for your carbs. However, I wanted to clarify that the Hitachi manufactured carburetors on our Z cars are not "ripoffs", as they were manufactured under license granted by SU. (for a significant sum of $ no doubt). So, they can be considered "SU copies" but they are certainly NOT "SU ripoffs".

Hi Keith Yeah, mine looks like yours. It ends at the Strut Towers. I've attached the Picture that Carl Beck posted with the part that is MISSING on my covers outlined in RED . Mine are listed as for a 280Z 2+2 One of the two boxes that I have has "Datsun P/N 99990-0034" printed on it. It is very faint after all these years. Mine also does not have the "hooks" mentioned by Becko. To attach to the hatch there are "snaps" that you mount to the hatch with a screw. The cover then "snaps" onto the hatch.

Naoshi San: I sent you a Private Message earlier this evening, but it does not show in my message tracking. Did you receive my message? Carl

The recession started on Clinton's watch for sure, but Ol' G.W. hasn't done SQUAT to remedy the situation. There is plenty of blame to be shared by BOTH administrations, (like 99.9% of all politicians) both B.C. and G.W.B. are as crooked as a dog's hind leg.

If you don't have any leaks, just refill with gear oil. If it leaks at the front or rear, change the appropriate seal. The gear oil is added via the plug near where the speedo cable is installed. Good Luck, Carl

So, should we equate Geo W, with Bill Clinton, and Ronald Reagan, and Jimmy Carter, and FDR, and James Garfield, and Geo. Washington?

As deep as the taxpayers pockets be if we squeezed out all of the politicians.

Maybe I could be an honorary Aussie? Now THAT would be grand!

Oh, so I'm not the only guy who has done this. Sure wished that I had a helper that evening to get the damn thing off of me. :stupid: :mad:

This is a great idea, but only applies IF the car is complete. When you have the engine, trans, and suspension off the car; it will weigh so little that a man can very easily knock it off the stands, especially the fron end of the chassis. Been there, almost done that!

Should be available from most any source of Z parts. I'm not sure exactly what year they switched to the internally regulated, but there is a technical artical that I copied from another site in our Technical Article section that describes the upgrade to this type of alternator. It requires only a minor modification to the existing wiring (adding a diode between two wires). Good Luck!

except for the fugley S31's and Z32's and Z33's which only share the Z name for marketing (read $$$$) purposes. They do not fit into the spirit or design parameters of the original product. Apples and Oranges. Nuff said.