Bambikiller240

No Hostility Here , just stating the facts as I see them (I save the hositility for the specific folks who F*** with me with surprise costs to ME)

You can have your leg back, Keith! ( I didn't realize that it was as rusty as your parts car! ) I was playing devil's advocate. I always ask for shipping quotes if it isn't specified, and if they later quote a different shipping cost, I forward their first quote right back at them with nothing more than a question mark above it.

So the buyer should pay for the laziness of the seller????:stupid: I don't thinks so! "Homey Don't Play That!" (and I know you don't feel that way either, Keith!)

Not pointing fingers at you specifically, but eBay fees and any overhead costs should rightly be included in the cost of the item up for auction. That is why there is a MINIMUM bid figure on every auction. Also, PayPal provides a service for the fees that they charge, so sellers who don't want to pay the fees should not sign up for the service. Last I checked PayPals policy was that fees for their service should NOT be added to auctions, but included in the purchase price. Buyers who purchase Money Orders never get a deal with reduced "shipping costs" on any of the auctions that I see on eBay. It is my contention that it is un-ethical to label the cost of fees associated with the sale (it is a sale) as "shipping costs" and to surprise the bidder with those fees at the end of the auction. Sellers who are too devious to price their auctions so that they make a profit on the actual auction price are what give eBay sellers in general a bad reputation. Again, NOT pointing fingers at you specifically. At least you post your "shipping charge". so people know what you are doing. Postage on a CD doesn't run more than a buck, and a mailer doesn't cost much more than $.50 Anyone with more than 2 brain cells knows that. It is the "surprise" $10 shipping fee on a oil filter at the end of the auction that gripes the $hit out of me.

I'm not so sure that this one is "more accurate", as when I installed one in my 72 240Z, now; with the ignition turned on for one minute with the engine NOT RUNNING, the guage will read about 20 lbs oil pressure. When the engine is running it reads about mid point in the pressure range (appx. 60 psi). No way is there ANY oil pressure with the engine not running, but that guage seems to think that there is pressure! :stupid:

Did you replace the suspension bushings while you had it all apart?.......or are you going to have to disassemble the whole thing again?....or live with 30 year old bushings? 6 hours isn't too bad of a time for the job.

Can your friend do multiple colors? Maybe he could make up screens for our club logo and we could get some nice Classic Z Club shirts done on a bulk buy. If this is something that your friend might be able to do, contact Mike and see if he'll give permissiion to use the club logo, or maybe your friend can make them for Mike to sell???? I'd love to have a Classic Z Club silk-screened shirt.

Hey Guys; I just thought I'd let you guys know about a T-Shirt on eBay that IMHO is kinda nice. Silk-Screened on a Hanes Beefy-T 240Z EMBLEM T-SHIRT I suggest not bidding on the auction of the price goes over $11.95 USD. In that case Click on the link labeled "Ebay T-Shirt Store" amd then click on the "Mazda,Datsun" catagory. you can buy the shirts there for $11.95 plus shipping of $3.95 (sizes XXL and XXXL are $3 more. Sweatshirts are also available. I am not connected to the seller in any way, except that I bought a shirt from him or her.

I had a 1" Quickor front anti-roll bar and 3/4" Interpart rear bar on my (since sold)1971 240Z and it handled fairly neutral. I used it for street and autocross and had a ball driving it. It also had Bilstein struts, and solid suspension bushings (aluminum/delrin adjustables), but no strut bars. I really liked the way it handled, and intend to replicate that handling package (without the solid bushings) on Bambikiller one of these days.

Make that One Hand AND one Foot. I want the bastards to be easy to catch should there be a "next time".

Sorry to hear of your loss. I dispise thieves. Please describe the car for us, so that we can also be on the look out for it as we drive. You don't always get close enough to check a VIN at first. Color ? Year? Anything that sets it apart visually?

Yeah, Thanks for chiming in Alan! Alway enjoy reading the "tidbits" that you share with us. A fresh ( non-USA) perspective makes for a facinating read.

Do you have a picture of the rear part of the right rear fender well on you car that you could post? I'm thinking, that there has to be some panel to allow access to the bottom of the filler tube (at the tank), but it would be the first time that a design was changed after the first few cars came off the assembly line.

The cover plate that I refer to actually forms the rear wall of the wheel-well (or at least the bottom 8 to 12 inches of it. It doesn't attach to any brackets, it is just secured to the rest of the wheel-well by sheet metal screws. About 3 or 4 of them. Very Low tech. I've never worked on a low VIN Z car so I don't know if it was added or was always there, but if the wheel-well is heavily undercoated, it can be difficult to detect that there is a removable panel there. You are probably right about the tank weight. I'm a poor judge of weight (by feel), and distance (measured by eye).

I don't think MSA sells the Pertronix, they sell the Crane XR crap. I got my Pertronix from VB. PS The Pertronix Ignitor costs less than the Crane XR700, and (for ME) worked, and still works MUCH better! Maybe the secondary fuel filters at your carbs are plugged up?

That is what I thought. I knew I had read of it somewhere but could not find the reference. Mystery solved!

No, you disconnect it at the tank. To get to the clamp at the tank, you must remove a little cover plate at the rear of the right rear wheel well. Probably about 3 or 4 small screws. All vent hoses should be disconencted at the fuel tank When empty of fuel the tank is fairly light. 20-25 lbs maybe less?

While removing the gas tank for treatment, you might as well replace the vent hoses as well. To do this you will follow KMACKS instructions AND you'll need to remove the two interior panels (Right rear and the one at the very back under the hatch) to gain access to the vent tank end of the hoses. The vent hoses can be replaceed with generic "fuel/oil" rated hose from the parts store EXCEPT for the one that has the pre-formed 180 degree bend in it. That one needed to be a factory hose (unless you can find a stainless spring to fit into generic "fuel/oil" rated hose that will keep the hose from kinking when the bend is made. If you use generic hose there, and let it kink, you'll have fill problems as the tank will not vent properly. The rubber nipples that seal the vent hoses as they pass into the passenger cabin are no longer available, but can be replaces with large diameter shrink tubing to effect a seal. There was a good article on the subject in an early issue of SportZ

I only see one under car pic and I don't see oil. Where is it?