Bambikiller240

"Wanna take a Ride?" You've been listening to Art Bell too much, tanny,

The "inner" boot (the one that attaches to the tunnel, not the one on the console) goes for $22 to 25 USD.

and he's got an airdam made for the early Z's with the low mounted Turn signal amber lenses, but he's got 280 Turn signals mounted in the grille area. The early Z turn signal cutouts in the airdam seem have covers installed. Why? Why not early turn signals, or a different airdam. Inquiring minds would like to know

Happy Birthday George! Keep your eyes & mind open, the HALF century mark will be upon you quicker than than you think! or wish!

Lachlan: Just noticed the "For Sale" on your 240Z. Isn't that new? I 'm wondering why you are selling it? Are you giving up on Z's? Didn't you recently spend a bit of money on making it nicer than ever? Just curious carl

And examine the rubber boot that the shifter goes through. It seals the large hole in the tunnel. They get torn and rotten over time. Mine had a large tear, so I replaced it. Made the interior quieter as a side benefit.

1BADDZ MY Z HIZ HERZ OURZ (your name)Z i.e. CARLZ

Blue is always good. Like a "Cobra" blue metallic.

I posted the first reply to this thread, asking what a "number plate name" is, but it seems to have been deleted for some unknown reason. Can't imagine why it was deleted. From the replies since then, I'm guessing that a "number plate" in OZ is what we in the USA call a license plate. I thought he was asking about the term for an ID or VIN plate or something

There have been many shops in CA with the name "Z Doctor" over the years. All run by different people. It has been a fairly common name for Z specialty shops. If you are looking for a specific "person", I think you'll need to have more information. Good Luck on your search though.

OKAY, I KNOW, this one has 43,000 more miles on it than the car in DC, but this is where I'd put MY $13K - $14K USD or even a bit more if necessary (if I had the disposable income to do so). It is far closer to the condition that I'd expect for that kind of money. And, according to the seller, it has been appraised. 1970 240Z #2761 Once again, JMO please no more flames. I'm just trying to show an example of what "I" expect for my $$$ in that price range.

For a modified Z I like the Fighter w/ wood/leather. I like my stock wheel, currently wrapped in leather for a stock 240Z.

I bought a 1600 watt hair drier at Wal-Mart for $12 With it I can, by holding it still on one area of floorpan, heat that area to the point where it is so hot that I cannot touch it in a matter of 60 seconds. Not trying to argue with Escanlon, but this was a MUCH cheaper alternative than the $50 heat gun that I priced at Home Depot and one which has worked (still works) well for me. If you go the route of buying a heat gun, please be very careful with it's usage. You can inadvertantly destroy things as it gets VERY hot, VERY fast.

Like Emporer Nero, he did "fiddle" (or was it diddle in this case!) while Rome burned.

You can also request the Victoria British Catalog on-line at : http://www.victoriabritish.com/ The Motorsport Auto catalog can be requested on-line as well at: http://www.zcarparts.com/ Both catalogs are free most of the 800 phone numbers don't work for overseas calls.

Ouch!

Here is a plate from the B Pillar. Maybe the guy has the others. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2410822734&category=6769

It may have been locked away for 12 years, but prior to that it was "little used" at best. 8K miles in 30 years, isn't much at all. In addition to the list below, my OPINION (and others will have different ones) is that a car really needs to be DRIVEN for 50 to 100 miles every 30 to 60 days to to give ALL systems the best chance to maintain functionality and not suffer from lack of use. Every two years the brake fluid should be drained and replaced as it actually pulls moisture out of the air and will ruin the brake hydraulic system. That MAY be the cause of the locked rear brakes on this one. Anti-freeze should also be drained and replaced to prevent/ minimize degradation of the aluminium and copper/brass in the cooling system, also every two years Engine should be started and run fairly often (maybe every month) to the point where it is fully warmed and up to operating temperature. This to help keep the Main seals and valve stem seals supple and not dried out. Battery should be removed from the car when not being used, and never be put into the car if showing the slightest bit of leakage. Engine, Trans, Diff should be drained and refilled every two years. (Oil filter replaced too) More often if driven more than 600 to 1000 miles per year. *edit* Oh, yeah. "Sta-bil" additive in the fuel tank, and the tank kept filled as much as possible. I don't know of anything specific to the Z really, but anything made of rubber will degrade in 30 years of existance, and should be considered suspect. Thirty years is a LONG time for a car.

Where was the USA when the Tutsi's and the Hutu's where slaughtering each other in Rwanda? Our government picks and chooses who and when and if they will step in to free people from brutal governments ( usually based on what they can gain from the action), not simply because "someone is trampling upon someone's "Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Happiness..." We haven't done squat about North Korea in decades. And they have the technology to deliver a Nuke to the West Coast of the US. Of course, there isn't any oil in Korea, either PS I think the Boycot idea is pointless.

I don't know if it will matter, but a build date of 12/72 would be a 1973 Model year 240Z.

Geeez, I really hate to post this one, as I DO NOT WANT TO FAN THE FLAMES, that were & should die down, but with regard to the last statement I must say something. Some of us were actually rebuilding 240Z's from the ground up by 1978, not watching from our bicycle in the driveway. With regard to "experts", I feel that there are 2 basic types of experts in regard to arriving at a valuation of this car. Appraisers - Certified Appraisers who can place a value on a vehicle based on condition, rarity, provenance (for you Daddz), the value of other similar vehicles, and current market interest in the marque People who have actually worked on these cars, rebuilding them from the ground up. People who know from experience what goes bad from age alone, and what must be done, and the costs involved to resurect a car from this condition. People who also know the value of the final product after all of the blood, sweat, and tears put into reviving them. These folks could hardly be called "hobbyists". Has the car been appraised? Now, WITHOUT POINTING ANY FINGERS AT ALL, "owning over 40 Z cars since 1990" doesn't in, and of itself qualify someone as an expert. Now if that person(s) rebuilt these cars with his/her own hands, saw first hand, and did the work involved, examined the systems with the knowledge of a restoration expert, or mechanic; then and only then could they be considered for the title of "expert". Anyone with money can buy cars. (see MC Hammer ) President Bush owned a baseball team, and ran oil exploration company into the ground (pun intended); anyone want to call him a baseball expert, or a successful businessman?? PS Mikey is just being Mikey. It is his site, he's trying to maintain peace and harmony for ALL members of the club. Please do not get down on him. He's looking out for us all. "Can't we all just get along?" - Rodney King

Have them do the welding and to make sure it is water tight. Take it home and do the prep and application of POR yourself. unless you have a lot of money and want them to do it all. If you're doing POR, you don't need paint. POR is applied to completely BARE metal and it is a paint itself. You could apply undercoating to the POR treated floorpans if you want. On my car I did POR on both underside and inside of the floorpans. If you are big on the Rhino-stuff you could use it, but make sure that it sticks firmly to the metal and does not allow moisture to get underneath to the metal. I think I'd POR the insid and then do the Rhino, but that is just my opinion. I'd want to be SURE that he floorpans stay in perfect condition.

When applying POR15 you must follow the directions and prep the metal with thjeir degreaser "Marine Clean" and then treat the metal with their "Metal Ready" product that etchs the metal and applies a coating which makes "new, unrusted metal" ready for the POR15 process. When this is done POR15 will adhere to "new, unrusted metal" just fine. To answer your question on IF you should do this, I'll ask you a question. How long are you going to keep this car? If you will not be keeping it for a long time, then you can get away without POR; if you are going to keep this car for the LONG haul, spend the extra bucks to permanently protect the investment you are making in new floors. Don't cut corners if you are into the car for the long haul. Just my opinion.