Bambikiller240

The POR does get "cloudy" when exposed to sunlight, but this does not effect it's function. POR makes a material that can be used to "top coat" the POR15. It is called "Chassis Coat".

I believe that you are referring to the "tar-mat" material that was adhered to the metal by the factory as a sound deadner and insulator. It was adhered to the metal and then painted over. It is supposed to be firmly affixed to the metal. HOWEVER, after 20+ years and with moisture in many cars this material is loose, and worse yet; traps moisture next to the metal and actually accelerates the rust process. If you wish your 240Z to survive, you must stop the water leak and stop any rust existing in the spare wheel well. The well is not available as a replacement part, you'd have to cut one out of a junk car (if you can find a good one) and weld in into your car. MAJOR $$$ and grief.

STOP, YOU GUYS!!! You're making my head hurt!!!!!!!!!!

I didn't take offense either, just got caught with my brain in neutral. I understand your situation regarding a cheat sheet for the emoticons, as I've printed one up which I keep next to my computer. I felt the need since I've had a leg or two come off in my hand when trying to make a joke on this site. I use :devious: for a smirk (colon "devious" colon)

Front Brakes probably aren't any good either. They've subjected to the same dis-use. Interesting that it has ALASKA License plates when it's been in VA "all it's life" If you mean the ignition "switch" has been replaced, I'd say "partially replaced" since it is hanging loose in the photo's. Hasn't even been connected to the Ignition Lock assembly, let alone the enclosure being un-installed. . Well, this one does seem to have "acquired" dings, dents, locked brakes, broken ingition, and ALASKA plates while spending it's life in storage in the Virginia environs. There is more than a little "FISH" to the story behind this car. It is pretty to the casual observer, but to turn it into a car that can be used, and/or possibly shown, the buyer will need deep pockets, and the patience of Jobe.

It isn't worth even close to $13K. Since it's been sitting all these years, unused, everything in brakes, seals in engine are ruined from drying out, the dings in body will require full repaint. Ignition is trashed. But then again, "There is s SUCKER born every minute!" - P.T. Barnum

Just shows you that even in these tough economic times, there are people with more disposable income than brains. "Stupid is, as Stupid does" - Forrest Gump

A "smilie" would have clued us all in on your intention. I, too, thought you were serious.

MSA will give the 10% discount to anyone who is a member of ANY recognized Z club. Including ClassicZCars (us, here), IZCC, ZONC, GroupZ, Central Coast Z Car Club, etc. Yu just need to give them your membeship number and name of club.

That would have been JOHN Morton.

NOT trying to argue with you, but.... SO, three out of four people got sick, and you say it's being blown out of proportion???

I've purchased many things from MSA, and only had vey minor problems with a few items. They have also taken back parts that other companies would not have even considered taking back. On two occasions they found used parts for my needs which were NLA from Nissan. I cannot complain about the service I have received. I'm a satisfied customer & will continue to be one. Keep in mind, their "on-line store" is very new. I'm sure they willl improve it as time goes on. In the mean time, let them know what you don't like about the on-line store, and continue to order by phone as before.

I bought mine at a local parts house that sold "K-D" brand special tools like pickle forks etc. They had a OHC valve spring compresser tool for under $20. Totally worth it!

He doesn't mention or show the "control box" that is necessary to make the rallye clock function, so I doubt it will work unless YOU have the control box. Caveat Emptor!

There is a tool. It hooks under the camshaft and depresses the valve spring sufficiently to slip the rocker arm in between the spring and cam lobe. Mine wasn't too expensive, of course I bought it 15 years ago.

Which is why our Federal government would not allow them to be installed in US models of 240Z.

Well, she'll drive, which is different from the current situation!

http://www.zcarparts.com/

Last time I checked they were available from Nissan and Motorsport Auto in Los Angeles. Cost was well over $100 USD

Uggh! I remember that I did remove mine before pulling the dash, but I cannot remember why. I didn't have Wick's book at the time, so I didn't do it because of his advice. I used only the FSM and Haynes manual, .....and trial and error. Sorry I can't be of any help here.

If these "Ramflow" filters are of the foam variety, the paint and thinner suspended in the air while the car was being painted, can get to the filters and depending on the foam, may have begun to dissolve the foam which actually closes of the air passages that the carbs breathe through. It can cause a major restriction on air flow through the foam filter. Easy enough to check, remove the filter & fire it up. Sometimes, just touching the foam filter will show you how the airborne thinners can disolve the foam. I've seen them simply fall apart from this kind of contamination. just a thought Carl

Are you still planning to move to Hong Kong with all of this SARS epidemic stuff in the news?

The air hissing sound that you hear is from the brake booster which is vacuum operated. It is normal to hear that with the pedal moving so far as it is with the system un-bled. Do a proper bleed of the system starting with the Master Cylinder itself, then moving to the wheel cylinders starting with the Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Right Front, then lastly Left Front. You should be good to go!

YES, If you switch the lines AND the Master from your 73 to the 71, everything will be fine The Larger res is for the disc brake calipers which require more fluid to operate. You must switch the lines AND the Master. Don't get it hooked up backwards or you'll get a nasty surprise when you least need it (when you MOST need your brakes!).

If you have a 73 240Z, it came from the factory with an alternator that requires an external voltage regulator. The 280 Alternator that was suggested to you would be an internally regulated one and would not be correct for your car. Using that 280Z/ZX alternator would cause problems. Now, some Previous owners have modified their cars to use the later 280Z/ZX style alternators by removing the external voltage Regulator and modifying the wiring. You need to verify what set up your car is running before you can know what alternator you need. The external voltage regulator is mounted on the inner fender panel oposite the oil filter. If it is there, make sure it is plugged into the wiring harness of the car if you plan to use the standard 73 240Z alternator. If the regulator is missing or not plugged into the wiring of the car, you need the internally regulated alternator from a 280z or 280ZX.