Bambikiller240

That is most likely caused by a rubber mount at the front of the Diff. It is quite common for the rubber to tear away from the metal of the mount and cause a "clunk" noise. Examine this area as it's a most likely defective part.

Same switch that turns on the dome (overhead) light when you open the door.

When you opened the drivers door, it let you know (by buzzing) that the key was in the lock. When the door closed (even if the key was still in the lock) the buzzer would turn off.

Never heard of one of those. (just googled and learned they are a small crow local to the S.E. US.) http://www.birds.cornell.edu/crows/FishCrow.htm The correct answer to the Q is..............a Swallow!

Hey, do you know what bird will keep the stork away?

No, no. I was referring to the two guys with "350 diseaZe" needing surgery. Even fully automatic weapons can shoot blanks!

It's not under powered for an L6 (I mean since it's used on 4 cyl trucks)? I wonder how much difference the weight between the versions and if it's worth worrying about for a street (non-competition) car. I know, I'm asking lots of questions tonight

Ferrari V12 (or Jag V12)

OK, so there are two (time for a vasectomy, or two; before this gets out of hand).

:paranoid: There's always one in a crowd. :paranoid:

Ten Charecters MSA SHOW

You mean the one Chris (26th-Z) posted? As I went to take pictures of my Ignition Locks I've discovered that mine are somewhat different than the one Chris shows. The wires on mine are on the opposite side of the assembly. On my parts, No, it couldn't be for a lamp, it's completely enclosed, except at the end where the wires protrude. Inside the enclosure, there is only the lugs that the wires are soldered to. All 3 of my Locks have the wires in a different location from the one shown by Chris, and only the New Replacement one has the hood. I have attached 1 pic (IMGP1059 Large) of a new OEM Replacement Lock that I bought from Courtesy about 1.5 yrs ago. The other two pics (IMGP1060 Large and IMGP 1061 Large) are original Ignition Locks from 3/71 and 11/71 mfg'd HLS30-U's and don't have the black plastic hood over the wires. I also have a (4 yrs relatively new) Replacement Lock installed in my car and it is identical to the one shown with the hood.

Of the 3 versions that will fit, which one is recommended? Looking for information on how to identify, or what year/model of car to look in, or to say that I have when placing an order. Not that I need one immediately, but it would be great information to have on the site and in my local files as well.

I agree, but you won't be able to leave feedback of any kind. Feedback can only be entered for "completed" auctions. (i.e. auctions that have been won, and then can only be left by the winning bidder) If the jerk had a Buy-It-Now that you had used, he simply would have stiffed you like what happened to Will. "Oops, I broke it, here's your money back." :mad:

I thought you had a 240Z?

That looks like the replacement Ignition Lock /SW assembly that I bought a year or so ago. The black part is just a cover for the two lugs that those wires are soldered to. (I had to remove this cover to reconnect one of the wires that was ripped out by a would-be thief. The switch must be internal to the lock itself. What other type of Ignition lock/sw is there (other than this one?)

I think that was explained earlier in the thread. Post #8 I have tried it multiple times and it's never worked for me, but I know several people who have had success with it. So it's worth a try, but it doesn't work for everyone. I'm so used to the hammer and chisel method that I don't even bother to try the other method anymore. Once you've used the chisel method a time or two, it's no longer a worry as you know the pitfalls and you simply avoid them.

Although others have had good luck with that method, I have not. As mentioned in other posts, I use a small chisel and a hammer, AND A LOT OF CARE. I gouge two grooves into the bushing, avoiding damaging the crankshaft and then use a small screwdriver to "pick" the pieces of bushing out of the hole in the crankshaft. It seldom takes more than 10-15 minutes to accomplish, but CARE is more important than SPEED when I do this. Good Luck, and take your time if you try this method

Yep, I found out the difference just like you did. Figured this was a good time to document the differences. I have a Choke lever assembly for the early type and one of the later types as well, so I'm stocked in case I get another (earlier) Z that needs parts.

When I rebuilt my Engine, I used parts from Motorsport Auto and Nissan OEM. Many of the items from Motorsport were OEM (like the Oil Pump, Trans Mount and Diff Mount. I'm not sure where the Head Bolts MSA sold me came from (they were in a plain plastic bag when received). I can't help with brand names since I tossed the boxes and didn't pay much attention to them anyway. Your lists (above) didn't mention them, but I'd get new Head Bolts. Sorry I can't be of more help.

How have you tried to remove it so far? Is it a bronze bushing, or a Steel Roller Bearing?

About two years ago I had some brake lines manufactured by Inline Tube Co. If you have the original line, you can send it to them and they will make an exact copy. My lines came out very nice. The only difference from the original lines is that I have to use a slightly larger wrench on the fitting. Just like when you buy metric bolts at the hardware store, the threads are correct, but the hex-head of the fitting is not JIS form factor that Nissan used. They can make the lines in Mild Steel, or Stainless Steel. http://www.inlinetube.com/ Here is another place that may be of help to you. I have not used them. http://www.classictube.com/

That SUCKS. Hope you get the parts soon.

I haven't been keeping track of them, since I bought mine (as a spare) sometime in late 2003. I have seen them periodically though, but since I now have two of them I haven't paid much attention to them. It's certainly possible that there haven't been any in the past month, but they do appear from time to time. FWIW, I couldn't be bothered to "prove" anythng to you. If you don't believe that I bought mine on eBay, that's your perogitive, but it doesn't change the reality of the situation. Everyone is on a different budget, so perhaps a savings of $5 may make a difference to someone. The one that I purchased cost me about $10 delivered. There are sellers of NEW parts (just like Courtesy) and sellers of USED parts on eBay and they don't ONLY sell the "rare" early parts (exclusively). Claiming that ONLY the "early" choke knob can be found on eBay is misleading and simply not true. In case anyone else is interested, there are at least two different sizes of Choke Knob set screws used in the 240Z years. See attachment. (parts purchased on eBay!)

I had no trouble finding one on eBay for my 72 Z. I think you'd find that Courtesy will charge no less than $6-8 for shipping ANYTHING.