Bambikiller240

Oh, I wish I was an Oscar Mayer Weiner..............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOLROFL :stupid:

Hey Mike: Is that a HOT DOG that the Wench in your avatar has in her hand? Sporting a lusty grin Carl:tapemouth

I've never done this modification so be aware that I cannot be responsible for the outcome of your attempts to follow this procedure. I'm not repsonsible for anything! Yeah, That should cover it! Carl (bambikiller240) This information is from an article prepared by Steve Golik of the Smoky Mountain Z Car Club. I copied it from ZHome.com and from the archives at ZCAR.com The Purpose of this page is to give the reader an understanding of how your present externally regulated alternator, can be replaced with a newer model, internally regulated alternator . Converting to an Internally Regulated Alternator Question: I would like to know if anyone has converted from the external regulated alternator to an internal. What wiring did you change? Answer: First a little background: The 60 amp internal regulator alternator was used on the '78 280Z and then the non-turbo 280ZX. I have also seen it on the '78-'85 810/Maxima and the '81-'85 720 pickup trucks. It is marked "LR160" on the case. There was also a 70 amp version (marked LR170) that was used on the 280ZX turbo's. [Note: It looks like the '84-'86 non-turbo 300ZX 70 amp alternator could be used as well, but the wiring connectors are different, so get (i.e., cut it off) the corresponding engine harness connectors as well if you get one of these alternators. I'll write this up this conversion later.] Because I don't like to give instructions without some explanation of what you are doing (it makes troubleshooting easier), I will start by describing the internally regulated alternator's electrical connections: 1. An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out. 2. An "S" connection which goes as close to the positive terminal of the battery as physically possible. The "S" connection "senses" the battery voltage and this is the voltage that the regulator is tying to control. This connection has a high impedance, so it only draws only micro amps from the battery, so it can be left connected without fear of battery discharging. The "L" and "S" connections are in the plug connector on the rear of the alternator that looks like the capital letter "T". The top of the "T" is the "S", and the other part of the "T" is the "L". SEE IMAGE FILE AT BOTTOM OF ARTICLE FOR DIAGRAM OF PLUG 3. An "A" terminal, which is the output of the alternator, which also is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. This connector carries the charging current. Because of the high currents this wire must carry, it is a low gauge wire, which means it has a large cross sectional area. For safety reasons, a fusible link should be in series with this connector. The "A" terminal is the insulated threaded stud on the rear of the alternator. Of course, someone may ask: "Why do you need two separate (the "S" and the "A") connections between the battery and alternator?". It is because of the fact that even large wires have some resistance, and therefore there will be a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery when the battery is being charged. If the regulator sensed the alternator output (which is higher in voltage) and not the battery terminal, the result would be undercharging of the battery. Now there are alternators which work this way, but they need a fairly large diameter charging wire to reduce the voltage drop. The separate "S" connection is a much better method of regulation. 4. There is a "P" terminal on the 280ZX turbo alternator (but I have also seen it on a few of the non-turbo 280ZX alternators). There is not a corresponding connector on the engine harness to mate with the "P" terminal, even on the turbo 280ZX's. So, the "P" terminal is not used/needed. 5. Finally, there is a ground connection on the alternator, although the case is a pretty good ground connection to the engine block. Now, the following procedure only applies to the 240Z. The 260Z has electrical connections between the regulator and the interlock module and the electric fuel pump, so it's more difficult to convert to an internally regulated alternator, but I have a procedure for it as well. Please email me directly if anyone is interested. I have not looked into converting a 280Z, but I would think that it would be possible as well. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code. 3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. 4A. Because of a minor wiring difference between late and early 240Z's, you may need to add a diode so the car will shut off after it is started. An electronic component called a diode can be used to prevent this. Obtain a 1N5062 (or equivalent) from your local electronics supply company. A diode has two leads, an anode lead and a cathode lead. The cathode lead is identified by a band near that lead. 4B. Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. 5. Disconnect and unbolt your old alternator. Bolt up the new alternator. Depending on what particular internally regulated alternator you use (I've seen different pulley sizes), you might need a different length belt. 6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator. 7. Re-connect the battery and start the engine. With a good digital voltmeter measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. This is the charging voltage. It should be 14.7V +/- 0.3V, but this voltage is a function of the ambient temperature and the state of charge of the battery. If the voltage reading is not correct, then re-check your wiring. More than 15.0V indicates that the "S" connection may not be connected correctly.

$^!#! Don't you just hate it when some :stupid: IDIOT leaves out a step in the middle of directions! Sorry Burt. I corrected my instructions for the next fellow who needs them! Carl

From Main (Home) Page at the Club site, on the left side near the top is the "OPTIONS" Menu, select , "USER CP" that takes you to the User Control Panel page. Select "EDIT OPTIONS " from the bar across the top of the page. That takes to to the "OPTIONS " page. On that page scroll to the bottom and select the button that says "CHANGE AVATAR ". That will take you to a page where you can select from a list of avatars that Mike offers OR you can scroll to the bottom of the page to the area called CUSTOM AVATARS to either upload an avatar from another website or (as most of us do) click the BROWSE button to select a picture from your own computer to upload to the club site. Note the size limitations mentioned below the words USE CUSTOM AVATAR. After you have selected the picture that you want to use, click the SUBMIT MODIFICATIONS button, your done! Depending on the picture that you choose you may need to re-size it to fit the 150 by 150 pixel limitation. That was the most difficult part for me. I stumbled my way through that, so I really can't offer intelligent directions on how to do that part, but I did use the MS PAINT program that came on my computer to manipulate the image size. Hope this helps you. Carl

OH, I thought you were talking about the VIN plate of this car that we had been discussing throughout the thread. ------------------------------------------------------------------- In CA you can replace the License plate (doesn't happen automatically, you have to request it) when a car is sold to another person. You can also request to be issued a new plate at any time, you just have to pay extra fees to do so. License plate numbers here in CA are not connected in any "offical" way to your location. A sequentially numbered pile of plates is sent to each DMV office for issue, but many are also issued from the main DMV in Sacramento via the mail.

Hi Burt: Our weather for yesterday and today has been FANSTASTIC. Almost 70 yesterday and today I think we did break 70. Nice and clear and WARM. Too Bad the rain and cold is due back by Sat/Sun. I've been off work on a mini-vacation since Sunday, so I've gotten to enjoy it. Now I have to go back to work tomorrow and I'm not looking forward to it. I Shoulda Been Born Rich! Carl PS If you can find a small picture, it really isnt very hard to do an Avatar. If you email me a small picture I can TRY to make sure it is the correct size and send it back to you to post for your avatar. I know it has to be you to do the actual entry of your avatar.

Yeah, maybe it is in France! :stupid: :stupid:

Just get a FRAM #G3359 filter. It is the same a the stock one and inexpensive.

No. The car we are refering to has VIN #HLS30 000212 It is one of the first 500 240Z's imported. Mfg date was said to be 11/69 I don't know what you mean about : Starting number is "987" mine's a '72 with "705" All 240Z VIN #'s start w/ HLS30, then have the serial number. My 72 was mfg'd in 11/71 and is in the HLS30-55,xxx serial sequence

#212 was the all Primer car in San Jose, CA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2405109223&category=6187

See my post back when the first auction was on for the reply I got from the seller. He said "This set up was designed specifically for the early Z cars, it uses a Bendex 4 big piston caliper set up from a 4x4 truck, vented rotors that I had slotted by a machine shop and all the spacers and hardware needed. As you can see I have this same set up on my $30K show car with a 3.2 stroker and it stops on a dime! This is a direct blot on in less then a hour .Good luck with your bid, its well worth ever penny, believe me only a few people have this set up, will you be one? "

Looks like the seller has the same "big brake" set up for sale again, only now his price has dropped to $450 with a "Buy It Now" of $500!!! (down from the previous starting at $600 and Buy It Now of $700) If it is still worth selling at these prices, one must assume that we were correct in our statements that the first auction was WAY OVERPRICED in spite of the protestations of some that the poor fellow needed to make a reasonable profit. Looks to me like it was an un-reasonable profit margin! The seller also seems to have changed his eBay name within the lst 30 days. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406155064&category=33563

I used a drill to CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the screw heads then used my smallest E-Z OUT to remove them. Your "new ignition should have come with 2 new screws that have a "break-away" hex head to replace theose screws with. When you tighten the HEX head, it breaks off leaving you with those screw head that have no way to remove them. I recommend using some other screw instead of those in case you have to removed the ignition assy again. I use CAP screws (which require an allen wrench to remove) just to make removal more difficult for the average thief. Of course you could just use regular METRIC screws.

Hi Burt: It is called an AVATAR. From Main (Home) Page at the Club site, on the left side near the top is the "OPTIONS" Menu, select , "USER CP" that takes you to the User Control Panel page. On that page scroll to the bottom and select the button that says "CHANGE AVATAR ". That will take you to a page where you can select from a list of avatars that Mike offers OR you can scroll to the bottom of the page to the area called CUSTOM AVATARS to either upload an avatar from another website or (as most of us do) click the BROWSE button to select a picture from your own computer to upload to the club site. Note the size limitations mentioned below the words USE CUSTOM AVATAR. After you have selected the picture that you want to use, click the SUBMIT MODIFICATIONS button, your done! Depending on the picture that you choose you may need to re-size it to fit the 150 by 150 pixel limitation. That was the most difficult part for me. I stumbled my way through that, so I really can't offer intelligent directions on how to do that part, but I did use the MS PAINT program that came on my computer to manipulate the image size. Hope this helps you. Carl

He backed out already? The auction just ended last night (Thursday) at 9PM PST, or did you mean when the car was up for sale back in Oct 02?

Not all states are the same. There is currently a move afoot in the California State Legislature to change the current law which exempts pre-1975 cars from Smog testing/inspection requirements. (they are still required to have all original smog equipment installed, but if they don't inspect, who will ever know what you remove) They want to change the law so that cars have to be 45 years old before they become exempt from Smog inspection requirements. If they are successful, there will be a number if 240Z owners suddenly scrambling to find original smog equipment for their cars!

Well, somebody bought it for $2,025.00 Buyer has no feedback so he's a newbie to eBay. I wonder if he is a member of this club? Also wonder if he viewed thec ar in person. I never did get to view the car as my schdule got messed up and I could never get in touch with the seller. Hope it is worth it. I don't think it would have been worth that much to me, but then again I did not view the car in person, so who knows. PS: in doing a search to find this thread, I discovered a previous thread from Oct 02 where someone reported this same car for sale at $1800. Guess the seller is happy now!

Eric: I found this correction info on ZCar.com. It contains info from the author of the ZHome article that I refered you to. It exoplains the correction that you need to do to fix your problem. Good Luck, Carl ----------------------------------------------------------- from ZCar.com archives: The alternator you want will be from 78-280 or 79 and up 280zx. Internal regulated. Others likely from same year 810's or Maximas. Likely other Datsun/Nissans from same general years will work also. Go to Zhome.com and look under 'Index of Technical Articles' then scroll down to 'Engine' and under that find '280 alt. in early...' When you do this you may need to add a diode so the car will shut off after it is started. If so add this email response from Golik: Because of a minor wiring difference between late and early 240Z's, this can occur. However an electronic component called a diode can be used to prevent this. Obtain a 1N5062 (or equivalent) from your local electronics supply company. A diode has two leads, an anode lead and a cathode lead. The cathode lead is identified by a band near that lead. The diode can be mounted on the "dummy regulator" connector. Recall that Step four of my instructions was: 4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. This should now read: 4. Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. Good luck

It means UNCOMPRESSED. The engine is "slightly" off the centerline of the vehicle, thus the right spring was spec'd different on the 70-72 240Z's to accomodate the off center weight distribution. I have no idea why they stopped doing that, but one would suspect it was eventually deemed unnecessary. If it was for "driver weight" I'm sure it would have been considered. How tough is it to put the longer spring on the side of the driver of a LHD car? They did many other things to accomodate LHD that were far more difficult than "remembering" to put the long spring on the driver side..

F4 Phantom.................One Bad arse Flying Fighting Machine!

BEST is defined differently by different people. 240Z's are the "lightest", they also have less horsepower than 280Z's, 280ZX's, and 300ZX's. They are (IMO) however the Original Z and only one that is a "real" Sports Car. ANY RUST is a concern. It doesn't get better by itself. Generally significant costs are involved in properly repairing rust. California has one of the best supplies of Z's that have minimal rust. Arizona and New Mexico are also good places to find a Z with minimal rust. You need to shop around and examine many cars with a fine toothed comb in order to find a car with minimal rust. Costs vary considerably. You can find 240Z's from $1000 to $8,000 and more. The more rust, and other "issues" a car has the lower the value. If the price is low there WILL be a reason (or two, or three) that it is low. If you can't see the reason(s), you need to look more carefully until you find it/them. There are lots of cars out there with electrical problems, body rot (rust), poor "restoration" work, tired engines, etc. What you pay will depend on how much of that stuff you are willing to live with. The best advice I can give you is: Look at every 240Z you can, and examine it COMPLETELY. Don't buy the first dozen cars that you look at. Use them to learn what to look for. Make notes and use them as a checklist for the next car(s) you look at. The more notes that you have of things to look for, the better prepared you are to buy the right car for you. Ask lots of questions and listen to the answers given, but only believe what you can see yourself and/or can have verified by people more knowledgeable than yourself. Lastly, DON"T BLINDLY TRUST THE SELLER, HIS JOB IS TO SELL HIS CAR! YOUR JOB IS DIFFERENT. TO BUY THE BEST CAR FOR YOUR NEEDS.

I like the Beatles, and have heard of that song. I'm not into hunting though. I "hunt" at Raley's (local grocey chain).

The lack of population would be one of the attractive attributes (to some of us) of Alaska, over places like Rhode Island, or Texas, or California. Many states could benefit from thinning the gene pool by 25 to 50%.

g260: As I understand your original post the only mod you did to the MX5 seats was to drill a hole in original MX5 rail, and you may cut off the end of the rail that sticks out. To fit one of the seats, (not sure if your car is RHD or LHD) you had to elongate the mount holes in the car. Can you post a poicture of the mods you had to do to the car itself to make this installation? Also, How tall are you? Most seat swaps in the US are a problem for us folks that are 6 feet tall as you end up with a seat that is too highfor comfort. Maybe , if you have time, you could do a Technical write up for Mike to post on the site for others?