Bambikiller240

1GENZED wrote: I agree, an established brand would be more logical. My point was more that "Datsun" was never (in the US) perceived as a QUALITY, HIGH END product, and it would take a lot of effort to alter / establish that perception. Probably more effort than creating a new luxo brand like Toyota did with Lexus, and like Nissan did with Infiniti. Otherwise, they'd have considered this instead of creating Infiniti in the first place. Using DATSUN as a performance division makes good sense (IMHO) when you consider their past success in off-road, sport cars, prototype racing (GTP, etc).

I hope this thing works for some of you guys. The install process caused my system to CRASH, and the only way I could get my computer back running was to delete the whole thing a do a "Restore" process. I won't be wasting my time on this thing again! These "ripped" games are often not worth the powder it would take to blow them to HELL! just my $.02

Ivan wrote: I wouldn't hold my breath waiting on THAT to happen. My belief is that they'd create a NEW name (like LEXUS) if they wanted a Luxo image brand just my $.02

From what I've been told, on 240Z's, the One groove pulleys are EURO spec (no smog pump) Two groove pulleys are normal for US spec 240Z's. I have a extra engine from another 72 that has a TWO groove factory pulley, and ONE extra groove mounted (as kmack describes) to accomodate the aftermarket a/c added by dealers. (no factory a/c was available back then)

I downloaded the files and when I tried to unzip the install file, I got a message that the file was corrupted or invalid. WTF? Now I can't access the site to download again. "bandwidth" :disappoin

Zlish: Whatever you do, DO NOT continue to drive the car with the pulley loose. You run the risk of it coming completely adrift, and it will drift right into your radiator, fan and waterpump destroying at least the radiator and probably all three. On my 72 240Z the pulley is held on by a large bolt (30mm as I recall). I suspect that it is the same size on a 260Z. On my car I do not need to remove the radiator to tighten, or loosen the bolt, nor to remove the fan. It is close quarters there, but you just have to watch out for your knuckles on the radiator fins. The torque value is quite HIGH for this bolt (sorry, I don't have my shop manuals at home to give you the spec) so you may need an extension on a torque wrench to get it right. Good Luck!

I just love a happy ending! Sure is nice to know that there are still some really nice people out there (here) who will share their good fortune. Katz you are to be commended. Also, Alan T was most helpful as well, with his amazing wealth of information and efforts to document the issue. You guys exemplify the spirit of helpfulness that makes this club the best. Thanks to MIKE also for creating, and supporting this invaluable resource for the Z (ZED) community at large.

EScanlon: So then these Q-Pads are similar to the tar/mat stuff that was OE on the 240Z floors? What kind of store waould sell these? Home Depot? Orchard Supply Hardware? or ??? The Eastwood Co info on the Dynamat Quiet Pads says they are .070" thick, but doesn't specifiy materials. I can't get the URL to copy correctly, but if you go to www.eastwoodcompany.com and search on "Quiet Pads" you'll see the product. Thanks for the info you've shared!

So as I understand the discussion, 'Q-Pads" are different from "Dynamat Quiet Pads"??? Does anyone know the manufacturer of the "Q-Pads"? or the differences between the two? I'd like to compare the composition of the two items prior to choosing one over the other. Thanks for any insight that you can share. Carl

You might try Eric Neyerlin at ZPARTS.COM He often has this type of hard to find item stashed away. just a thought. carl

Mike: I don't think that these are available from Nissan any more, but I do see used ones on eBay occasionally. I couldn't find a listing in the MSA or Vic Brit catalog for them either. Carl

That's what POR15 manufacturer and distributors claim. your can read for yourself at the URL's http://www.por15.com/index.html http://www.thefinishedlook.com/main.htm I used it this past summer and it seems to be really tough stuff.

The springs should be shorter than the stock ones, but 3-4 inches shorter doesn't sound right. The info that I have says that they should lower your car 1" to 2", but will be stiffer by far. Should not need to be 3-4 inches shorter to accomplish this. :surprised When I put on Suspension Techniques springs on my previous Z, they didn't need to be compressed to re-assemble, but I couldn't move them an inch up & down like you describe. I COULD wiggle them a bit, when assembled, but to be loose by an inch sounds wrong to me. Caveat, My experience is with a 240Z, but I still think something isn't right with your situation. Check the P/N on your invoice and contact the supplier you bought from or Tokiko's USA distributor to confirm you got the right kit.

Raven: Check out the link provided below. The ZHome.com site has TONS of valuable information, and a great Mail list covering all Z's. Bambikiller240 says, Check it out! Good Luck! zhome.com/History/colors.html

Thanks for the reply peterc! What build date is your 72 240Z? What is the original color? Have you chaged it durring the restoration? Mine is 11/71, Metallic blue, not restored (yet, some day I know to do it!)

Here's a photo of the Short lead type. Thanks, Carl

Can anyone tell me from experience which HAZARD Switch I need for a 1972 240Z? Long Lead or Short Lead type? Thanks Carl

After the POR-15, I applied a coat of their ChassisCoat Black Product (supposed to be a super tough paint) inside and out. That is as far as I've gone, to date. Many people say that you should not use undercoat, as it can trap moisture and hold to the body panels. I'm leaving my car as is for the winter so I can observe the panels. Assuming no signs of recurring rust, in the springtime I'll probably apply a light coat of some kind of undercoat. Not sure what to use either. Also still looking into options for replacing the Tar Mat insulation on the interior surface. If anyone has had great results, or advice please post. Thanks!:classic:

EScanlon/All: Heck no it doesn't sound like obsession. Sounds like a smart move to me, of course; I did the same with my floorpan. I used the heat gun and non-metallic scraper to remove 99.9% of the undercoat and Tar Mat, and then wiped the remaining traces of petroleum bits off with Acetone. Then I went to the Marine Clean and Metal Ready, followed by POR15 (inside and outside). It's the sort of job (like outer spindle pin R&R, or Fuel tank vent lines) that you do CORRECTLY the first time, and don't have to do again for 20 years, if ever. Hapy Turkie Dai All !!

When I went aftrer the beginnings of "cancer" on my Z's floorpans this past summer, I bought a 1600 Watt Hair dryer and used that to soften the Matt and Undercoating that I wanted to remove. It worked great and I was able to peel large strips off the car with very minimal effort and NO gouging or other damage to the metal. The dryer works great for shrinking HeatShrink tubing when doing electrical repairs/mods too. Only cost $12 at Wal-Fart!

Easiest to fit is a 240Z radiator re-cored with a 3-row or 4-row core. A 280 radiator will fit, but will hang down lower than the 240 unit. Holes in brackets of a 280 Rad may need to be "adjusted" (ovalled or redrilled) to match the holes in the 240 Radiator support. You'll need to use the lower rad hose for the original car the rad you use came from. ie 280 rad, & 280 lower hose, OR 240 rad, & 240 hose. Good luck Carl:sleepy:

You have just discovered one of the main reasons that the FEDS mandated the 2.5 MPH, then the 5 MPH bumpers beginning in 1973. Not that they help tremendously, but they certainly ARE an improvement! Enjoy the Ride! CarlROFL

As 240Z indicates, or his Link, I should say; It is fairly easy to remove the mirror. The key is to have the window in the rolled up position, with the moisture barrier plastic pealed back or removed, and the door open so that you can reach up through the hole in the inner door panel with a socket attached to an extension. Like most things, Once you've done it, you'll realize how simple it is. Good Luck with your project! Carl