Bambikiller240

Seymourccc: I can't tell you much, but I do know that there are at least several ways to install the SBC's in a Z. The old ways like "Johns Cars kit" or the "Scarab" way puts the engine way to far forward to get good weight distribution and leave the car with poor balance and handling that is nearly impossible to remedy. The prefered way is the newer "Jags that Run" design which I'm told puts the engine right at the firewall, but results in near perfect 50/50 weight distribution. Don't know which way your car is built but I'm sure you will get resonses from others who can advise you further. Good Luck, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Atomrat: I can't answer the specific questions you asked, but I can tell you that the linkage for the round top carbs is different from the stuff you got on the flat-tops. You'll need to get linkage as well as carbs is what I'm saying. Good Luck ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

$900 Sounds almost too good of a price! How does the engine & trans run?? Either the guys doesn't know the value of what he's got, or you don't (yet) know all thats wrong with this car. Check it carefully & snap it up IF everything else is OK. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Maybe a fisherman without a boat-anchor would want them things! Real Z's use Round-Top SU's or EFI!!!

Question answered! [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 08-22-2000).]

Don't know about any adjustments, but most of the "20" horsepower he's talking about was already there, but was being used to spin that stupid smog pump instead of your tires! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

I believe that it is used to keep the steering rack from flexing when the car experiences severe loads while cornering hard. The rubber stopper is supposed to be snug up against the front cross-member. Sorry I don't have more info. Hope this helps a little. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Hi Jon: If you spray carb cleaner around the engine compartment, I'd be careful that you don't spray it on painted surfaces (overspray) or you may loose paint! It does sound possible that the prob a vac leak, but as a recent memory recall hit me, I recall simular problems being caused by worn throttle shafts on the carbs. Sets up an air leak (unmetered, obviously) that messes up your fuel mixture in a random sort of way. Thus the carbs are always trying to "catch-up" to proper mixture. It can get pretty weird. Good luck on finding the prob whatever it turns out to be! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

James: Use the 1973 carbs for boat anchors, thats about all they are good for!!! ;-) I concur on the suggestion to check out Scott's Round Top SU's at ZTherapy.com. I saw many of these units on the finer cars at the MSA show in April. NO ONE had a bad thing to say about these beauties! I'll have a set for my car as soon as I complete the current work on my car and pay off the parts bill! :-) ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Jon: Hi, saw your post about the "hunting" idle. AIR, it is a common problem for early Z's possibly caused by several different problems. As "billcap" mentioned, a worn distributor shaft could cause the problem, also a vacuum leak could be the culprit. Most times that I've seen the problem it has been worn throttle shafts in the carbs. Result is air leaks into the carbs. Unfortunately, if this is your problem, the fix is not cheep. (carb replacement or have yours rebuilt by a SU professional) If you determine that this is your problem, check into www.ZTherapy.com Scott Bruning sells awesome remanufactured SU's. I saw many sets of them at the MSA show in April & they are beautiful! Best thing though was that NOBODY that I spoke to about these carbs had a bad thing to say. Totally rave reviews. Good luck, & OBTW think I found the cap I was looking for! Fingers crossed! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Ron: Thanks for the info. I Hope to be there! I'll look for you & your car if I make it! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Ron: Sounds like you know more about it than I do. But, please can you tell me anything about the event. I've just gotten back "into Z's" after close to 15 yrs away from them & I'd love to go to some quality events in the North/ Central CA region. Any info would be appreciated. TIA, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Go ahead & use propane. heat the area around the bushing til it smokes & starts to catch fire (a little). Now it's ready for your BIG hammer. WHACK IT!!!! Should fall into the bucket of water you were smart enough to have ready for it! Lots of ventilation & be careful when playing w/ fire! BTW, you MUST NOT remove the metal shells from the moustache bar or you will truely be screwed for using the urethane bushings. Just clean them up real good. Dont forget to use plenty of lube when assembling the bushings or your car will squeek (especially in cool weather)when it bounces. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 06-23-2000).]

Mike: Check out ZTherapy.com for an excellent video that costs under $20 delivered to your door, that describes in great detail how to adjust the round top SU's. It does sound like the front carb is running rich from the black (sooty) plugs in #1,2,3 cyls. Give it a try, you'll probably be amazed how easy it is to adjust them once you have "the knowledge" from Scott @ ZTherapy. I was! Good Luck! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Bob: Hard to go wrong with the stock set-up of dual SU's. (especially if you currently don't have them & purchase the beauty's put out by ZTherapy. (ZTherapy.com). Triple Mikuni's have got to be sweet, but from what I've heard, they are tough to keep in tune compared to the SU's. Good Luck! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@aol.com

Thank you, Jay for making the items available to us! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 06-25-2000).]

Billcap: I am not an expert on this system, but it sounds to me like you are not getting sufficient vacuum trough the master-vac to provide the "normal amount of power-assist" that the driver expects to feel. One place to check is the little "one-way" valve that is in the hose that provides vacuum from the intake manifold to the master-vac unit. It may have been re-installed "backwards" so that it prevents vacuum from reaching the master-vac unit, thus preventing normal operation of the brakes. This may not be the problem on your car, but that is where I'd start looking. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@aol.com

Can you be more specific about what knid of suspension does it have, brakes? All stock? Tires? Wheels? Specifics may get you a response! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@aol.com

Jon the BIG boy: Its a common problem for Z's I'm told. They call it "hunting" for idle. I dont know the solution, but I'm sure you'll get a few responses that will help. Good luck! Jon: old memories get jarred sometimes, see my post dated 7/2/00 for a flash of memory from the early 80's when I owned my first two Z's. Carl [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 07-02-2000).]

John: I enjoyed your story, but too bad about the Z. It must take BALLS to put a 70Z "on the line" in a track situation. Glad you and it came out more or less OK. I would love to have seen you climbing all over the rear of the Viper! OLD SCHOOL! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z HLS30-55703 MFG 11/71 All original except Bambi's Fender, Bumper, & Hood

Differential, Halfshafts, Stub Axles are separate parts. If you are refering to the Halfshafts, then the issue is almost always just U-joints. If you are refering to the Stub Axles (contained in the Strut Housing) the problem is usually worn wheel bearings. If you need a differential, I'd check the used parts forum here or at another place like ZCAR.COM for a used unit cheep. Good Luck, Carl

Hi Z'ers: I'm in need of some advice. My 72 Z turn signals are acting weird. When I bought the car 18 months ago they all worked fine. Since then, first the left rear turn signal light stopped blinking when the switch was activated. Then is was both rears that wouldn't work. Now the only signal light to work is the right front. However, when I turn the Emergency lights switch on.... ALL four corners will flash. This (I believe) tells me that the wiring to the signal lights is good at all four corners of the car. I have cleaned the contacts on the switch mounted on the steering collumn with no change to the situation. This switch assy is over $100 from Nissan & I dont want to buy it until I'm positive it will solve the problem. Oh, the indicator on the dash only comes on when the switch is activated for a right turn too. (though both R & L indicators do come on when EMERG lights are on). Is there any other part (a relay, or flasher) in the circuit that would or could cause this problem? Any help will be appreciated. TIA, Carl

Mike: Thanks for the reply. I knew how to rotate the shaft etc, its just that the bolts were only mildly difficult to remove, but seem IMPOSSIBLE to get back in the same way. Also, this is my third Z; previously had a late 73 (actually a early 260 in everyway except 2.4 L motor), then a late 71 (that I transformed into a early 260 in everyway except for the requisite SU Carbs & bare 71 chassis). Anyway, I never encountered this much difficulty with either of the those cars. Thanks again for your reply, Mike Carl

Hello All: Can anyone help me? My 1972 240Z Factory Manual specifies that these bolts be oriented so that the nuts are toward the driveshaft/U-joint (boltheads against the Diff front flange). The problem I have is that the bolts are too long (even though they are original) to feed through the flange. The front seal cover(?) of the diff is too close to the flange to allow the bolts to be slipped into the flange. Will my car fly off the road if I install the bolts "backwards" to the manuals reccomendation? Why do they specify this? Thank You to all for any assistance/advice. Thanks, Carl cstahlnecker@hotmail.com