Bambikiller240

Another thing..............if they sold it at $19.5K, maybe they couldn't have afforded to make the damn thing so frink'in heavy. Subtract ~$8K of price and ~400 lbs of weight and they are only a face-lift (and an arse-lift) away from selling one to me.

What kind of car do you have? Year? Model? 240Z exhaust manifolds don't have liners.

Guess it depends on how long you want the car to last. Drive it when it comes in contact with snow, ice, and de-icer salts and it won't be too many years before you'll be either spending BIG BUCKS to repair the chassis or driving it like Fred Flintstone (if you're lucky).

The name. Gauge layout is similar. Anything else is accidental (or is that incidental?).

If you already reported it, that's all you can do, but I suspect that even with the "case closed" the record of the event will still remain in their files. Businesses don't usually "delete" anything from their files. It may still be used against you when it comes time to renew your policy. The insurance company IS NOT your friend. JMO (having dealt with several of them over the years),

You're right the bottom part (where the gasket goes) does not move. Silicone will work, but use only a thin coat. You don't want any bits of it to get squished out and circulate through the oil system where they might plug up an oil passage. The gaskets (Nissan OEM) were available last summer. They were very cheap, so I bought spares of that one and the oil pump to timing cover gasket to keep on hand for my next project. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, stocking up like this is a good idea IMO, as it can save time and shipping costs. Especially if you prefer OEM gaskets like I do.

I haven't read the directions on the package lately (printing is too small for old eyes) but my recollection and standard procedure is to clean & degrease any fastner that needs a threadlocker, or other coating (like oil) applied to it. IMO that's just good workmanship practice. Dirt & Crud = BAD, Clean = GOOD.

You're right, You CAN use a seat belt set from a 1973 240Z in a 1972 240Z. It will fit in the pocket with absolutely no problem. No mods required. I'm not sure if 1974 belts would fit the pocket.

Bummer about your car. I've been there before. Bet the white paint on his fender is gone long before the investigator gets a chance to look at the van. Money turns people into assholes.

On the 1971 turn signal switch that I have in my "spares" box, the metal arm (that contacts the ring on the steering wheel) has a RED w/ BLUE striped wire which runs to the connecter with 3 male spades on the turn-signal sw. assembly. Make sure the black (bullet connector) wire is solidly connected. I believe it may be a ground wire.

The blue car is made by AC. It's their "Mamba" (in keeping with the 'snake' name)

Bigger budget? More of a Fixer Upper? Hard to be more specific without knowing what "exactly" you want in a car and exactly where you've been looking.

ten charecters

WHO is talking about an LTD? I don't see anything about an LTD in this thread, the Title is Honda Blower Motor and all the posts talk to THAT part.

Cast ing indentification number should be cast into the head near the #1 spark plug hole. That head probably has the internally oiled cam (no external oil tube). Do you have any pictures of the head you are talking about that you could post? It might help people to help you if they can see what you have.

It was here all the time. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2780

As far as I know, the "bumpsteer modification that you describe is done to minimize (or maybe eliminate) the negitive effects of lowering the car. I haven't heard of anyone doing it to a car that hasn't been lowered.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16320&page=2&pp=15 Post 29 It was here all the time.

Since you ahven't stated what kind of engine you are starting with, it's hard to be specific with advice. You'll need more than $1300 for a rebuild and the upgrade you describe. First thing I'd recommend ins the books How to Rebuild Datsun Engines, and How to Modify datsun Engines. You can get them through Motorsport Auto and these are great book which will be invaluable to you i this job. If I was doing the cam upgrade that you mention on my stock L24 I would certainly go for larger valves, but for all I know, you may have a 300ZX TT.

You're using the wrong type of .22's, and not aiming carefully enough. But, a .45 would ensure a happy ending.

I used Silicone Brake grease.

Notice it says "reducing" and doesn't say "eliminating". My bushings (not this brand) indicated that they had graphite in them as well. Even though I applied what I thought was enough grease to them, they still tend to squeek a bit in colder temps.

Marty: That is a correct statement. You would NOT want to do that! There are two (semi separate) issues to be concerned with when changing from a 240Z Clutch and or Trans to a 280Z/ZX Clutch and/or Trans 1. Fork and Slave cylinder must match each other: both 70-72, or both 73-78, 79-83 Non Turbo) 2. Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, and Throw-Out Bearing Collar must all match: 70-74; OR 75-78 Coupe, Non Turbo ; OR 75-78 2+2, 79-83 2+2, 82-83 Turbo Victor: That is a correct statement YOU would want to do that. (I unsderstand that you DID do it)

Most of the responses have come since you (obviously) got pissed and deleted your original question, so since this thread no longer has any real purpose there isn't any harm in us having some fun with it. Oooh a threat.