Bambikiller240

Caig has many DeOxit products. I've used the "DeOxiT D100" and "D5". D100 works great for cleaning connectors, D5 will keep them clean. I haven't used the Power Booster or Pro Gold

take your pick

You'd be better off with a pin punch and a BFH, than mucking about with a jack. Step 1. WHACK Step 2. NONE, (you're DONE)

Que? (ten charecters)

There should not be sufficient heat on the right side of the car to cause fuel to boil. If it is boiling fuel the first thing I'd want to know is WHERE is the heat coming from to cause this. (there isn't any exhaust manifold, or pipes on that side of the motor) Are you SURE that the bubbles are fuel boiling?? I wiould suspect it to be air in the lines (possibly from a pin hole in a hose or line) rather than boiling fuel.

Any rust you can see in the wheelwells, or rocker panels is just the tip of the iceberg. There is more ROT in places that you cannot see. Rust will ALWAYS get worse if you don't remove it (or treat it with something, assuming it hasn't already ruined the panel)

BINGO!!!!!! PS: Regarding the Wheel Bearing tech page. SAVE IT to your own computer so you don't have to wait for it to load next time you want to view it.

I can't think of any reason you can't use the the 5 speed fork and slave cylinder for this? That's what I am planning on doing if/when I go to a 5-speed or change clutches again. Fork used in 73 4-speeds is used through 78 for ALL Z's, same for slave cylinder. I'd rather use the self-adjusting fork/slave (73-78) You just have to use the fork designed to be used with the appropriate slave. NOTE, You MUST use the appropriate T/O bearing collar for the CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE you are using.

I'll take the OEM door seals rather than the PRP aftermarket seals with the (allegedly) "better" rubber anyday.

THIS is the only "mental" trim that I am aware of.

I'm in NORTHERN CA, and $50K is a signiifcant amount of money for someone just starting their career (even in CA), and it may be what is necessarry to get people to do the job, but it is still IMO plenty of "thanks" for a starting wage. Can't think of too many other professions (other than Doctor & Lawyer) that pay that well for rookies.

For myself, I've found that with a good set of headlights, I have no need of auxiliary lighting.

:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth I was wondering what it meant/referred to as well. I hope it doesn't mean the same thing.

Motorsport Auto sells all of them. They are expensive. I'd just buy the one with the 180 degree bend, and use fuel/oil rated hose from the local parts store for the others. DON'T USE HEATER HOSE!

You won't get much in the way of friendliness from officers in my town either. As for their job being "thankless", starting pay for a person fresh out of the police academy approaches $50K/yr. (USD)

A recent issue of Racer magazine still had an advert from Sunoco listing several race fuels they supply. NASCAR still uses one of them.

What year Z is this on? My 72 only has one fusible link which connectsd to the starter.

ZHome lists Exterior AND Interior colors for 240Z's HERE But only Exterior colors for 260Z and 280Z's I don't recall seeing stripes like that in a 260Z, but I could be wrong.

so are we, that's why we encourage people to find the answers that have already been given 10,000 times rather than expect it to be given 10,001 times. Welcome anyway.

Cracked or Warped cylinder head is one possibility Another possibility is the timing cover (where the water pump mounts to it). I've seen timing covers get so corroded that there is a hole in the chamber behind the water pump blades, which lets water into the area where the cam and crank gears/timing chain is located. ***are you sure it's not mixed water and oil from the first failure that you are still seeing?

Adding another row to a radiator will move the surface of the radiator closer to your fan, so I'd find out why your fan kissed the existing radiator and fix that issue before installing a thicker radiator. There should be a good sized gap (around an inch if I recall) between the radiator and the fan Possible causes that I can think of: water pump (bearing bad, or broken shaft) fan clutch (bearings) radiator support pushed rearward due to accident damage

As far as I could tell from their website, it appears tha they are an American company. I'm kinda surprised at that, myself.

bump for easter 2005

.and the good shops are booked in advance because they are good. The cheap guy can fit you in right away because he doesn't have a loyal clientel, but he may not finish your work on time due to having to stop and fix someone else's car for the second time.