Bambikiller240

Aussie Dollars. $24,000.00 AUD......... =...............$19,070.18 USD Australia Dollars...........................United States Dollars http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Clean your battery cables?

I see. Still think I'd try pinching the nipple to ensure that it can open (couldn't hurt) but I have no other ideas. Frankly, I've not seen a Tie-Rod built like that on any of the 3 Z's that I've owned. The bottom area has been "solid" in that area on the ones that I've seen. Will, are your OEM ones like that? Was that a "Jeb" or "George" bush oyster? I couldn't tell.

Not sure I understand where the grease is overflowing from. Do you mean that grease comes out from around the bottom of the boot (where the circular spring secures the boot to the housing? Maybe squeeze the "overflow nipple" on the boot to make sure it opens to allow grease to come out. That's the only thing I can think of.

Yeah, I meant "save". You're right about downloading

Interesting explanation of how the system works. Thanks. Only one question....Why? We can't download images.

It's possible. It seems that things have changed on the website. In the past the website had a file size limit of around 600Kb for images. Judging from the file sizes that he's posted to day 100-200Kb, it seems that his explaination of a slower dial up modem speed has something to do with it. It would be unusual to reduce the file size one is sending at the time that one gets a faster connection.

Refresh mymemory. I don't recall hearing of this subject. What is an Abracadabra Z?

Resolution, and file size certainly make a difference, but.......... Even when I upload 500-600 KB images which is right at the max fils size limit it doesn't take more than 8-10 minutes TOPS for an upload.

I got the response from Dynomax and forgot to post their reply until now: _____________________________________________________________ Thank you for your inquiry for Dynomax Exhaust. We appreciate your interest in our products. In regards to your 1972 Datsun 240z, I no longer have the stock dimensions for your application, so I will need the body length, and inlet - outlet location ( ie offset or centered) to see which universal Super Turbo would be best suited for your current pipes. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact our tech line at the number below. Lisa Kortz Dynomax Performance Exhaust Installation Technician Tech Line Number For a Dynomax Dealer Near You 1-734-384-7806 1-734-384-7807 _____________________________________________________________ I crawled under my 240Z today and made a few measurements, and used the information in Post #18 of THIS THREAD to verify size/fitment and come up with some part numbers and the following information. First, the Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers listed below are OVAL shaped mufflers 4-1/4" High by 9-3/4" Wide. (If you want a ROUND muffler, this information isn't for you) Dynomax Super Turbo #17733 has 2-1/2" Inlet/Outlets (center/offset configuration), the body is 14" long, Total Length (tip of inlet to tip of outlet) is 18-1/2". Dynomax Super Turbo #17731 has 2-1/4" Inlet/Outlets (center/offset configuration), the body is 14" long, Total Length (tip of inlet to tip of outlet) is 18-1/2". Dynomax Super Turbo #17730 has 2" Inlet/Outlets (center/offset configuration), the body is 14" long, Total Length (tip of inlet to tip of outlet) is 18-1/2". These seem to be the best fitment for a 240Z in the "Super Turbo" line. There is another line (the Ultraflow line) that has some mufflers that will fit as well. They flow higher than the Super Turbo line, but IMO are overkill since the Super Turbo flows more than a Stock / Mildly Built L24 will put out anyway. Keith Thomas, Chet Whittel's Crew Chief when he was contesting and winning the ITS Championship in a 240Z (two years running) has tested their race car with a Super Turbo muffler and without. He found only a 1 HP loss with the muffler in place.

OMG, I can sure understand a lack of patience with that issue. What speed modem did you have? I use a 56K modem and pics usually take about 2 minutes each (avg. 100-200Kb image) Anyway, good to see more pics of your car and the wheels you're using,

I think that the chokes should snap back up all by themselves. This can be seen with the choke linkage disconnected from the cables. I believe there is a spring up under there that is overcome by the action of the choke cable, but having the wrong cables can certainly cause problems.

Chill, it's not a big deal, but read your statement. (the underline is mine)

By loosening the screw that connects the cable to the carb linkage and making sure that the nozzle is all the way "UP" when the choke lever is all the way FORWARD. Tighten screw. Do this to BOTH carbs. You want there to be no slack in the linkage, but still allowing for the nozzle to go all the way up into the carb body when the choke lever is all the way forward.

everyone is Darius' "buddy". BTW, it's not a "new" V8 Z as these video's have been on the internet for at least the past 3 years.

Chris: Was having a dial up connection keeping you from uploading to the website? carl

It happens. It could be either cable or carb somake sure that the cable is adjusted correctly. When I had that problem it was the carb itself so I took off the air cleaner to gain access and (with the choke "on") wiped down the choke slide (under the carb) and sprayed it with Kano Labs KROIL lubricant. It helped solve the problem for months at a time, but the problem did return later. Later, I replaced the original unrebuilt carbs with ZTherapy reman. carbs.

Chuck is correct. However, some people buy a "Group 24F" battery instead of a "Group 24", order to put the Neg post under the fender. (I believe that you need a longer Neg. battery cable in oder to complete the switch)

If you have to be whipped, I can't think of a better item to be whipped with.

The only dimension that really matters is the width where the tensioner will be wedged. Lots of room for design license everywhere else.

MSA used to sell them not too long ago for a lot less IIRC. Not listed on their website currently.

Oh, I see. It was the FRONTS that you were asking about. Are you going to section the rear strut tubes also?

OK, that makes more sense. But, then .....Will, what did the pictures tell you? I thoughht you were interested in the Tokico Rear struts and whether they had a sleeve on theend? Did I miss something?