Bambikiller240

Cool that Tokico doesn't give you that "Peg Leg" Rear Strut in the Illumina like they do for the Blue Model. I wonder why the RED case for the Rears, and White for the FRONTS?

Black, IMO

Motorsport Auto lists: Rear Bumper Centers for 70-72 (#32-2001) and 73 #32-2002) Left Rear Bumper End 70-72 (#32-2020) and 73 (#32-2022) Right Rear bumper End 70-72 (#32-2021) and 73 (#32-2023) Rear Bumper Rubber Strips R or L 70-72 (#32-2040) and 73 R or L (#32-2041) Rear Bumper Mounting Brackets 70-72 R or L (#32-2070) and 73 R or L (32-2071) The Rubber Strips and Bumper Guards are also different between 70-72 and 73 Thus, I'd say that the 70-72 Rear Bumper is different from a 73 Rear Bumper. Will it fit? Probably, IF you have ALL of the 73 mounting parts. Will it look right? Well, "Joe Ricer" down the street may not notice the difference but someone who knows 240Z's will notice the difference.

Dunkin' Donuts? Krispy Kreme? LaMar's Donuts? Donut Connection?

Raining here in Nor Cal as I speak. Forecast for the next 15 days looks wet as well. I'd be glad to give you'all your rain back. It's not doing us much good. We are over our average annual rainfall. So Cal doesn't need any more rain either! Those guys got smacked HARD this year.

EricB: If you currently have a 73 240Z, the slave cylinder may not be different. 1973 marked the change from the old style slave and clutch fork (where you had to adjust the clutch manually) to the newer slave and clutch fork where the clutch is automatically adjusted. 70-72 had the old style slave and fork and 73-78 had the new style slave and fork

Chum is gone. If it was a shark, he's well fed and moved on.

My statement isn't based on what I've heard, but what I've experienced (just like you). I owned a 73 240Z with them, and drove it for several years. Had them tuned by several different Z Specialty shops (including FAR Performance, one of the leading Z Shops on the West Coast, back in the Day) in that time as well, When I switched to 3-Screw Round-Tops I noticed considerable difference in performance. I would be very surprised if OZ or other markets received carbs designed to meet US Federal (or CA) Emission standards.

Thanks for the great link, Mike. Interesting (if long) read. Worth bookmarking for future reference, and I've done so. Seems to indicate that the salesperson is but a small cog in a large machine that can be very predatory from top to bottom. "Caveat Emptor" is still the best advice for a customer shopping for a car.

Some folks tried to clear up if the origninal poster really understood what he was talking about. He may have just said it funny, but you do use the block to secure the tensioner, if you are going to remove the cam sprocket to move from one index hole to another to in order to adjust for chain stretch (or advance cam timing for another reason). Some things become obvious when a person delves into actually doing the job. We're answering a question about the tool, not giving a step by step How To lesson. He didin't ask for that One drawing from a Nissan publication, one from a Racers book, one from an Internet Parts seller. The fact that there are several different designed tools that will work shouldn't be a surprise to anyone. It's a common tool for working on OHC engines, some are more elaborate than others.

E: Mike moved the thread w/ poll to the Body and Paint Section. Sale price is obscene.

FWIW, the "Flat-Top's received on Z's in the USA are FAR DIFFERENT than the Flat-Top's received elsewhere. We call them "Boat Anchors" for a reason.

Email/PM beandip. He has a .pdf file that he can send.

I knew it! You ARE a dentist (or married to one). Make a few extra sets of bushings. Lots of people on eBay are waiting for this upgrade.

Well, it's obvious that the auction is run by a Auto Reseller (Dealer, Broker, Agent, whatever) When was the last time you believed anything that one of them told you without verifying it yourself? They always act indignant when you catch them in the lie. Hope no one gets burned on this one. (Notice that the license plate has only a 2002 registration sticker on it!)

factory sealed boxes include wheels and center caps. You have to find and buy lug nuts.

Well of course it doesn't touch the tensioner. It presses on the chain which in turn touches the tensioner. The fact remains that the purpose of the tool is to retain the tensioner.

If it doesn't specify a primer I'd just paint it. That's what I've done with my engine painting. (I don't remember the paint brands I've used) Just make sure your block is free of grease/oil and is clean and dry before you start.

I agee. One thing that I think is beneficial is that there be a slight taper so that it's slightly narrower at the bottom and widens out higher up so that it "wedges" the tensioner tightly.

The quoted text is EXACTLY (word for word) what you said. The fact that you prefaced that statement by indicating that you finally figured out where Aussie260 "might" be located is irrelevant. You still had the gall to make the quoted statement. Here's a suggestion for you. READ THE WHOLE POST, USE SOME COMMON SENSE (you can borrow some if you're short on it) BEFORE YOU START INTIMATING THAT SOMEONE ELSE IS AT FAULT FOR YOUR MYOPIA.

Sorry if the dimensions are hard to read, I had to shrink the image to get the website to accept it. If you copy the image to your computer, you can then enlarge the pic in MS Paint or another program to see them better This diagram is from the bible. "How to Modify Datsun Engines and Chassis" book published by H.P. Books in 1973 EDIT: I see someone else posted while I was creating this. Oh, well.

Will it be held in a swamp?

Keith: Actually it IS the "whole" Ignition "Switch". what it is connected to, is the Ignition "Lock" (the tumblers, that you mentioned) This part (the electrical switch for the ignition system) can also be purchased from some local auto parts stores. I believe that AutoZone and Poop Boys have been mentioned as sources. IIRC, prices were slightly cheaper than $20 (though not by much).

That certainly could be the case. Even if not, I've noticed what I believe to be provisions in my 72 HLS driver door (itself) for a handle to be installed. All that would be needed (it appears) would be to poke holes in the upholstered door panel. Could it be possible that the doors for HS and HLS models are the same, thus a provison for the handle to be on either door depending on vehicle configuration? I'm not sure that I agree with Will's valuation of the car, but IMO the opening bid amount is very close to the absolute top value it would draw in my area. Wee will all know what it was worth to one person in a few days.

No bids yet, that is just the opening bid amount that the seller is demanding. Let's see if he gets any bids! That ISN'T a BRE front spoiler