Bambikiller240

This guy's history lesson appears to be Waaaay Out of Whack (Goertz again!). Of course the Buy It Now of $23.5K should have told me to not be surprised by anything he put in the auction. This is NOT meant to be a comprehensive list of oddities found in the auction Air Cleaner is a weird color Rear Suspension is McPherson Struts??? :stupid: Driver Door is interesting. I've thought about putting a "Jesus" handle on it like the passenger door (in fact, I bought an extra for that purpose) Cargo Straps are missing for rear deck area I wonder, in what language the book was written where he quoted that "Gret Britan" received 549 240Z's mfg'd in 1972

You can ship anything at FedEx-Kinko's. It may cost a bit more than at a FedEx only location, but it won't be much. You'd probably spend more in gas running around town to another location.

Yeah, KYB struts are Ok for a street car that doesn't need the highest performance, but Tokico Illuminas are a better choice for a track / high performance application.

Rob: If you are using Windows XP, You can also get a Image Resizer Tool from Microsoft at : http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx about 2/3 of the way down the page. It allows you to rersize mutiple images all at once. You can also use MS Paint "Stretch / Skew" function to resize the complete image.

ZTherapy are definitely the ones to ask, but I don't believe that all of the internals are interchangable regarding the 3-screw and four-screw versions

Yes, they can be checked while still in the fuse box, but I still recommend taking them out. The reason for me taking them out in order to test is that I have encountered several fuses over the years where the end cap was not well connected to the metal strip. The result was that the fuse was intermittantly conducting power. I'd hit a bump and the power through that fuse would be interupted. Pulling the fuse out allows me to examine the fuse for mechanical as well as electrical problems.

ya beat me to it! This should be a lesson to everyone who stumbles across this thread in the future. Looking doesn't cut it. Take the fuse out and use your ohmmeter to test it.

That's it for me tonight! I'm going to bed.

OK, Here is a pic of the IZCC Window Emblem that Carl Beck gave me at the MSA show in 2002 (I think that was the year). Obviously it's not installed yet. Size is 3-3/4" X 3-3/4" Picture is of the vinyl side of the emblem (paper is on the front of the vinyl). You peel the vinyl off of the paper and install it on the inside of the window, so that the emblem displays correctly though the window. It doesn't have any sticky adhesive on it, but sticks to the window well via some kind of "cling" effect. It can be removed and repositioned easily, or pulled off to clean the window, then it can be reapplied.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16240&highlight=os+giken

Yeah, right! 24 layer AFDB required, at least!

Maybe because the system was designed with the intention for that part to be there? Possible? Or maybe the janitor altered the technical drawings overnight as a joke? Did you get enough information? You also got some advice which should be helpful.

Rebuilt OEM Distributor was around $150 at Courtesy Nissan in TX (this was 2 years ago). Pertronix can be found (last time I checked) for around $70

That is true, tho I question the forum you chose to pose the question. Wouldn't any response be more valid if given by an EFI expert (I mean a REAL expert, not a garage expert? I'm not sure about this statement either, but if think that's the case, OK That's just it, he's DOING something. He grabbed the bull by the horns and is working on a solution. So, then the point of this thread was..................nothing?

AFDB No, they are using known technology to perform a proven upgrade. Not quite the same as pulling a fanciful idea out of thin air, with ZERO research to even indicate any possible benefit. But Hey, It's your car, Go For It!

Your advice (as good as it is) has been delivered too late. Perhaps a 6 layer AFDB would help? 12 layer?

On older Z's the vac advance plate can fail. It is basically two plates with some tiny ball bearings sandwiched in between the plates. This allows the movemnet needed to operate the advance via the vacuum diaphram. What happens is the grease that lubes the ball bearings dries out, the plastic cage that holds the ball where they belong gets brittle from age and heat cycles. The result is that the Vac Adv mechanism can get stuck and not operate. I don't know for sure if this part is available still or not. I'm sure someone else can verify. Since I was rebuilding the entire engine, I opted for a Nissan OEM Rebuilt distributor, and re-installed my Pertronix in it.

Yes. But only if it worked on the distributor prior to installation of Pertronix. In short, the Pertronix Ignitor does not fix a vaccum advance that is already bunged up. It doesn't disable (or affect a functioning Vac. Adv) in any way.

This has been discussed at least two times and the info is available through search function. Stephen (sblake01) and I have provided links and specific information about Smog Check requirements for CA cars. One way to get around it.....move to NV. The requirement is based on the model year, not mfg date. Next time you vote, remember who signed the law into effect, and which State Senators and Assemblymen voted for the bill.

By daily driver most people mean a car that you depend on DAILY, whether it's 75 miles or 3 miles, when it breaks down you're walking either way. If you were commuting 75 miles, you'd most likely have more income to deal with the breakdown.

Easiest to just pull the trans, remove the flywheel, and clutch. Replace the freeze plug on the back of the motor block (if that's the one leaking), Reinstall the flywheel and clutch, install the trans and have a beer. No need to pull the engine. If you felt the need to replace all freeze plugs, you just remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to get at the ones on that side of the block. The ones on the pasenger side of the block are accessable without much effort at all. PS Be advised that there is one freeze plug on the back of the cylinder head also. If that one is the one leaking you pretty much have to pull the head (or the entire engine). Otherwise, leave the engine in the car. Best to make SURE where the water is coming from, or atleast that it's NOT coming from the headgasket, or the water supply pipe that goes around the back of the motor, (or anywhere else external) before you start working to fix it.

His statement (as written) doesn't make sense.

I think that either black (Semi-Gloss is what I choose) or the OEM color are best. As others, I'm not much of a fan of body color in that area, unless the car is silver.

I guess that's what is going on, but as you say still a pisser. There are times when this occurs for a domestic sale also. It seems that some guys just want to move merchandise and can't be bothered with providing any customer service at all.

Isn't it annoying to have money to spend and a "businessman" can't be bothered to make an effort to make the sale?