Bambikiller240

Yes, a Large difference in temps. A block of dry ice has a surface temperature of -109.3 degrees F (-78.5 degrees C) Nitrogen changes from a gas to a liquid at a temperature of -320 ºF

I don't think there is any difference in any of the years of 240Z fuse layout within the fuse box . The search engine is your friend. Typing in "Fuse layout" you'd find THIS thread.

I don't think there is anything you could have done to remedy this. Is there? "The structure of the poll is not congruent with the structure of the statistical data collection." Does that mean the percentages don't mean $hit? (to me it does)

Depends........Where is the tire rubbing? On Spring Perch? Inner part of wheelwell? Outer Lip of Wheelwell?

Use your DVOM and/or test light to confirm which (if any) parts of the circuit work before you go replacing the most expensive part of the circuit without knowing that it is the faulty part..

First, undercoating is not a 'Rust Proofer". Second, Undercoating get's damaged by the elements. Rocks, Road Salt, Chemicals, etc which allows moisture etc to come in direct contact with the metal and traps it there. Third, the metal on these cars is thinner than modern cars, that's why these cars are light. Also the metal was not well treated for corrosion resistance

POR will only protect metal that it is direct contact with. Any metal that you strip and is not prepared properly and treated with POR will be subject to potential rust. Undercoat will not protect the "surrounding non-por'ed area" from developing rust. (that's how the rust you want to treat got there) POR will stop rust that it is in direct contact with. If the metal is rusted through and you don't treat both sides of the panel, the rust will continue on the un- por'ed side, thus you won't have accomplished much. PS: It is VERY COMMON for there to be rust under the tar-mat. What looks like minor surface rust under the mat often turns out to be significant rust. (personal experience talking here) The logical time to remove the tar-mat is when you see ANY rust on that side of the panel (in other words, before it has ruined the floorpan so that it must be replaced)

It's not so much that it could come off the filler tube, but they get brittle and break. do you mean the accelerator linkage? Shifter linkage is on the tunnel. It could be a cause, if there are any exhaust leaks near the engine compartment.

(Ten Charecters)

If all you found was one thread on the application of POR, you aren't using good search terms. POR15 application to Floorpans has been discussed literally dozens of times. What specific questions do you have?

In order for POR to do ANYTHING for you, you MUST strip the metal of ANY AND ALL PAINT. POR must be in direct contact with the metal. You should read up on how POR must be applied before considering the use of it. The metal must be PROPERLY prepared for the application of POR or you will be wasting your time and money. There are many threads on this. Use the search function to find them.

Wiring isn't my bag either, but have you tried to follow the wiring with a simple test light to see if the circuit operates properly anywhere (upstream from the actual brake lights)? That would tell you if/where a break in the circuit might be located. I don't know anything about the relays.

Naw, Car Parts on the Port side, "Toys" on the Starboard side. Separate, but equal

Good Poll. 2 questions: Is there a reason for the italics on some of the choices? Curious. What do the "percentages" mean? They don't seem to make sense for some reason?

Let's see, there is the dungeon, a couple of battery operated devices, a few whips, some chains, a few "award winning" video tapes,......oh yeah - some whipping cream, an extra L24, 3 complete 240Z suspensions (disassembled), a cross-member, some halfshafts (3), a Type 1 4-speed transmission, a R180 diff, a set of 14" x 5" Ansen Sprint (5-Slot) Mags, a set of 14" X 7" Rewinds. But I know which drawer, locker, corner of the garage each item belongs in. You won't find any "lubricants" mixed in with the 80/90 wt Gear Oil, or .......well you get the idea.

No offense taken, I am old. But even when I was young, I didn't confuse sex with car parts.(no matter how much I like them) Apples and Oranges.

Lookng good! (but not even remotely "sex")

Even if there is sealant, you can cut through it with a razor knife. It's not made os steel you know.

seerex is right, plus pictures aren't good enough to judge the intergrity of the chassis. Frame Rails, inner fender under the battery, rocker panels, etc. FWIW, If it's a 72, it came from the factory with round top carbs

Zactly!!!!!!

Alarms only protect your car when someone is near enough to hear it and call the Po-lice. If someone is near enough to hear the sound of gnosez' compressor, your car (or what's left of it) will still be protected. (unless there is Krispy Kreme shop between the police and the location of your car)

By it's self a header will get you nothing in terms of power. You would need to rework the cylinder head, add a camshaft, etc (i.e. significant engine mods) in order to gain anything with the use of a header, IMO. They are also noisier than an exhaust manifold.

The 240Z came with ONE speaker in the left rear (behind the plastic panel) of the car. It wasn't very large, IIFC approx 6" diameter. Most original owners added another on the right rear when installing a stereo. Some butchered their door panels and added 4" dual cone speakers at the same time. If you don't mind chopping up the interior, you can ghetto-up a Z with any sound system you can imagine.

Exhaust smell in the cabin is often caused by a rear hatch that doesn't seal well. There is a negitive air pressure situation over the rear of the car that can pull exhaust gases from the tailpipe upward. Common fixes include adjusting the hatch/latch mechanism, and /or lengthening the tail pipe so that it extends further. Gasoline smells are also common in the cabin and often caused by cracked fuel vent hoses (or the plastic nipple connecting the vent hose to the filler tube) behind the interior panels near the fuel tank filler tube.

I've never removed one myself, but can't it be done with a simple razor knife to cut the weatherseal? I can't remember for sure, but I think that's all they used when replacing my trucks windhshield at my workplace parking lot (mobile windshield repair).