Bambikiller240

With such a high CG care should be taken no matter which direction the stand is moved, or which stand is used. Pebbles, errant nuts, bolts, washers will stop the casters dead in their tracks so, look over the floor or sweep up before rolling it around.

I heated from the top, stating at an edge and moving inward. I liked the control I had to remove only what I wanted of the tar-mat. The tar-mat is not prone to melting (liquifying) unless you don't pay attention to what you are doing. As for "clean up", no matter what, you'll have to wipe the metal down to remove what I can only describe as a stain on the metal from the tar-mat. I spent about 2 hours total (including clean-up) to remove the mat from both driver and passenger floor pans (and about 3" up the tunnel on both sides).

Heat applied for a 1600W hairdryer, or other heat gun works well also. The concept is to apply enough heat to soften the tar-mat, not melt it. I tried to find Dry Ice, but I'd have had to drive to another town to get it, so the heat method was more convenient for me.

Do you distrust the shop manual? Do you not read the replies that people post for you? Posts #6 and #10 I think that you'll find that most people use what the factory specified, except for about 20 to 30% of people who choose synthetic lubricant.

Glad you found the problem and will be able to make it to ZFest. PS: Is your avatar the state bird of FL? :eek:

Did you check the "check valve" also? Maybe it's stuck?

I feel your pain. The one I had lasted only a month also, before some lowlife stole it from in front of my house. At the time I thought that I should have stenciled my License Plate nuumber on the outside of the material. But at best it would just make it easier for me to spot IF I knew where to look for it.

Anything that fits the plug will work. I use 1/2" "breaker" bar w/o socket.

Here is the response that I received: ===================================================== "i got the car off a friend in a deal. He bought the car off a guy who was selling it on the side off the road. He man sold the car because he was more into American Muscle. He go the car from his father , who bought the car new. The car was drove for a while and then was put into storage for approximatly 17 yrs. The son God the car out of storage and did some restoration to the car. The odometer stopped working at 5,800 miles, but from the information i've gathered from all those who have owned the car before me, it has maybe 500 miles on it since the odometer stopped working. if you would like better pics you can e-mail me your e-mail address and i will try and send you some. The snow has been falling like crazy here lately and i 've only owned the car for a few mos, soi went in my garage andtook the pics. I can however get it out possibly in the next couple of days and get some better pics." ======================================================

I LOVE the statement "Car one a couple of car shows" (English as a third language?) I sent the following questions to the seller. We'll see if he responds. Dear mikescoolitems, Can you please provide better pictures? The ones shown are too dark to tell anything about the car. Also, are you sure it's not 105,000 miles on the car? Why would it need restoration if it only had 5K miles on it? Thanks, Bambikiller240

Very good point. A search should bring up several threads (some with diagrams, etc) on this subject.

Not trying to be argumentative, but common sense should tell a person that a drain plug has to be at a low point on the trans/diff and upon inspection there is only one possibility. Simple to look for a "plug". Fill point location is somewhat more ambigous, but a quick looksee shows only two possibilities (actual fill plug and reverse lamp switch which are side by side and at same level) and no other "openings" to the trans case, You can also fill by pulling the Reverse Lamp Switch. (right next to the fill port) EDIT: Guess Victor beat me to it. BTW, Use Anti-Seize on the Fill and Drain plugs to prevent future difficulty in removing them

ten Charecters

I'd like to se more of the rear of the Renault The front looks fairly similar to "some" of the other new cars for 2005. Here are a few of the new cars. Ferrari hasn't intro'd their new car, and as for Jordan and Minardi, who cares.

Exactly why I wouldn't even try it. (This is just the kind of thing that bites me on the a$$ everytime I try to save time/effort) Of course I have Speed Bleeders on the car so re- bleeding isn't any trouble at all.

The hole in my pedal was so ovalled that it was twice as long as it was wide. The hole is supposed to be 8mm dia. and it was at least 16mm X 8mm when I found it. Had the "slot" drilled out, and a 8mm bushing bronze-welded into place. Mo Betta!

Didn't say anything about a factory manual. Haynes manuals are under $10 on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7954911651&category=34229 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7955715363&category=34229 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7956148557&category=6762 If you have shop manuals, they will tell you what fluid to use in the trans and will likely have pictures of the fill point. I'm not trying to be harsh on you, but these are simple questions that can be answered by 5 minutes of flipping pages in a book instead of waiting 2-3 hours, or a day for someone to respond to your thread. Haynes Manual Chilton manual Clymers manual Autobooks etc FWIW, 80/90 wt Gear Oil (API GL 4) for trans. 80/90 wt. Gear Oil (API GL 5) for Diff.

Pard, you need a shop manual. Invest the $10 and you'll have a wealth of information at your finger tips.

I wouldn't dispose of this in a storm drain. Most Storm Drains lead directly to local lakes, rivers, oceans and the water is not treated in any way. better IMO to pour it down a hosehold drain (diluted) so that it goes to your local water/sewer treatment plant.

You didn't respond to xray's post, so I'll ask the question again. Did you confirm that the calipers are installed on the correct sides of the car like xray mentioned? The calipers can be mounted upside down. The bleed nipples MUST be at the TOP of the calipers or you'll never get all the air out of them

When I had this problem it turned out that the hole in the clutch PEDAL (where the bracket of the clutch master cylinder attaches with a clevis pin) had become OVAL (instead of ROUND) due to years of wear and tear. That created "slop" in the linkage which prevented the master cylinder from being operated a full stroke. Thus the full amount of fluid was not being pumped to operate the slave cylinder. It takes less than 5 minutes to duck under the dash with a flashlight and observe what is going on there to confirm if this IS or IS NOT your problem.

And if you don't buy OEM parts, you *may* find that the parts you receive do not have any provision for grease fittings at all, also no "castellated nuts and cotter pins" (self-locknuts provided instead) Distributor called them "Sealed" and "Lifetime Lubricated". :stupid: I was shocked when that is what I received.

When in doubt..........blame it on God :stupid:

http://www.linfoot.net/ Actually the Transverse link is the A-Arm according to the 1973 FSM Page RA-1, can't find a Nissan name for the part we're talking about. It functions as a brace for the Transverse (A-Arm) Link Mounts. Dave at the link above calls his part an Aluminum Rear Brace.

I haven't had much experience with them. What was the problem?