Bambikiller240

When you use the word "RESTORED" it means that the car is as it was when it left the factory. If you change the color it is NOT RESTORED. Thus it makes a huge difference to the originality of the car. Even on a modified Z car, there is nothing uglier than opening the hood, or looking into a door jam, or lifting the carpets and seeing a different color from the exterior body panels. If you decide to paint the car, do it right and not half-assed.

Yeah, they look just like the Appliance Mesh wheels (except for the wrong center caps) on my second Z car (1971 model) Long gone.

This is a good example of the dreaded P.O. doing stuff back asswards! Fred Sanford engineering. :stupid: Wonder what else he might have screwed up like this? talk to beandip. He can help you with info on how to make it a "closed" system again, but without the vapor tank.

Read CAREFULLY guys. Those instruction are ones that I sent to Carl Beck. They are for the Tonneau Cover for a 76-78 280Z 2+2. The measurements will NOT be correct for a 240Z Tonneau cover as it is quite different. (much shorter). Taikaki was able to fit the 280Z 2+2 cover that I sold him to his 240Z, but it is not the same as the correct 240Z cover. Also, interesting to note that he has 2 hatch struts on his car. as for copyright.......................sue me!

.........unless you have the early type 4 speed transmission (which was still used for most of 1971)

On the Tonneau cover that I have, the cover attaches by simple snaps on one end (easy to source for production); and the other end uses a shock cord system that I have never seen on any other item. IMO, it would probably be very difficult to nearly impossible to source. That's not to say that some other system couldn't be used, but then then cover would not be a replica of the original.

The club CD is the "Parts Micro Fiche", not a FSM. It's worth having in addition to a Paper or CD FSM.

Yess, that is the number I found on Page 79 in my catalog from MSA (www.zcarparts.com) It is not shown on their website because they have not published the "Drivetrain" section as yet.

In my younger days, I wasn't too picky in who, err what I drove. A '49 Dodge PU, '64 Dodge Dart, '71 Ford Pinto, '75 Toyota PU, then I tripped over my first Z. Been stuck there ever since. The "who" list is longer than my johnson, so I'll skip that list.

Will, Will, Will. I'm a "driver", always have been, always will be. :nervous:

#10-2252 @ zcarparts.com

What are you guys? Men or Sheep?!!!

It's been a long time since I looked or felt good. I'm almost ready for one of them NZ Mail Order Brides (delivered by motorbike) I'm a Baaaaaaad Boy!

That's "Marvelous" Will! :stupid:

If Australia is like the USA, your Radiator shop can install a thicker core (more cooling tubes) into your upper and lower radiator tanks and mounting plates.

FSM calls for straight 20W. You can get "Fork Oil" like for motorcycle forks that works well also.

Nice Wheels!

Good idea to add the intended oil, but it isn't going to make your car idle any better.

You are indeed a bandit! Great Price!

I don't recommend that part for street driven cars. Without any rubber or other material in that part to damp noise and vibrations, your car will be noisier. That part will work, but you may not be happy with the resultant noise and vibrations that will be tranmitted into the body of the car. Just my opinion.

Looks like you scored. If I might ask, What did you pay?

NO! Keep the longs, and mail the short ones to me!

I agree with MikeW, also in the lower right part of the picture (original orientation) appears (IMO) to be the bottom edges of the fender and valance panels, I've been wrong before......

picture is too dark, I can't see it well enough to identify it. What year model car do you have, again?

All the info I have heard is that they are "worth it" on SU carbs, no matter what air filter is being used. That's why the stock Z has them built into the OEM filter housing. At one time the Z Therapy website had a write up on this subject. I don't know if it's still there.