Bambikiller240

...........guess the "good prep" didn't include masking off the muffler

Not sure what the best method is to get that out. I've never had that happen. If you drill, be carefull to keep metal bits out of the cylinders (or other parts of the engine), and to not damage the threads in the block. This isn't the sort of thing you want to make mistakes doing. Hopefully other people can give you more advice on how to get the broken bolt out.

Glad to help ya, George! PS: The "insert" thing is for when your picture is already on the internet (on another website).

Click the EDIT button in your post, when the EDIT page opens, scroll down to the MANAGE ATTACHMENTS button and click it. When the ATTACHMENT window opens, click BROWSE. WHen the SELECT window opens, Select the pic you want from your computer. THEN, click UPLOAD, when that is done, click CLOSE WINDOW, and then SAVE CHANGES. EDIT: Your picture cannot be larger than 1024 X 768, nor larger than about 500Kb. Best choice for image type is JPEG or JPG.

Use a LOOOONG Breaker bar (or slide a Looooong pipe over your ratchet) You need to gain leverage to loosen them.

Run the event in your buddies car. Why punish your car?

Absolutely!!!

I wonder if he can get US Postage stamps in Australia?

There's still time to change your mind and get that 3 rotor!

Will: Now that your press is dead, what are you going to do to press out spindle pins and such? FWIW, before the Spindle Pin Tool was arround, I spent a full day pounding out the first set, before I gave up and took the second set to the machine shop. My machinist had to use his 30 ton press (and a torch) to get my spindle pins out of the second set of A-Arms.

Rick: Not to Hijack the thread :stupid:, Did you ever find an Air Cleaner?

It's possible, can you isolate where the sound is coming from? The Frt Diff mount is a more common cause. Beyond saying that, an inspection of each for signs of damage would be in order (and not too difficult to do).

Can't see how the hubs/wheel bearings could cause it. Have you opened the diff and verified the set up (back lash, etc)? Since the symptoms changed when you replaced the diff (even temporarily) that is where I'd look next.

That sure "sounds like" the front diff mount issue IMO.

Does the clunk happen as you start from a dead stop, or go into reverse, or shift gears? Or?????? Usually a clunk at these times is the front diff mount. It's a common problem. Ther rubber gets separated from the metal Only way to know for sure is to pull the front diff mount. Usuallly you cannot see the damage without pulling it. Best to do it when you drain the trans, so you can pull the driveshaft. Support the front of the diff with a floor jack and pull the front mount. Replace and reassemble. Not very difficult at all. Why are you replacing the U-Joints?

tell that to a ZCCA judge and see how far it gets you on a (restored) Stock Class car. From the Dictionary: re·store ( P ) Pronunciation Key (r-stôr, -str) tr.v. re·stored, re·stor·ing, re·stores 2. To bring back to an original condition From ZCCA: A) STOCK CLASS Vehicles exhibited must be configured exactly as shipped from factory (NOT DEALER). Cars with Dealer add-ons such, as wheels, other than stock tires, side moldings, etc. can enter this class with deductions for same. Radios, paint color, tires, etc. must be as shipped. A/C must be factory installed except 240Z which may have same A/C as installed by dealer, i.e. ARA or Frigid King, with basic York compressor. Daily Drivers can enter this class if desired. (This section will be reviewed at a future date.)

<nevermind> :stupid: EDIT: Thanks for the correction MikeW. I don't know why I thought she meant that the T/S lever wouldn't return. :stupid:

Mark: I haven't examined a 280Z tank, but I'd think that the outlet would be installed in a similar manner & *should* be able to be replaced similarly. I'm sure that someone else here has more info on a 280Z tank than I. Note: Regardig 240Z tanks, in addition to the tube being soldered to the front wall of the tank, the other end of it is secured at the bottom of the tank as well.

The pickup tube/outlet is soldered into the front wall of the gas tank. Any place that repairs gas tanks should be able to remove the damaged tube and install another without drilling more holes in your tank.

aka a known carcinogen!

You wouldn't be laughing if you were the one in the car breathing fibreglass, wiring and petrol fumes.

As I said, I've had the hoses crack to the point that fuel was dripping out onto the ground (and if fuel can get out, air can get in) and the engine kept running. IMO there is no way cracked hoses could cause the symptoms you are describing unless they are cracked in half. The only way to check a potential for blockage at the tank would be to drain the tank and remove the filler hose and peer into the tank to see if there is trash in there that could obstruct the outlet tube.

RATS! Max Crawford gets robbed again!

Neither is your paint safe from MEK, I'll bet.

Motorsport Auto, Victoria British for fenders, rocker panels, Patch Panels, etc. Zedd Findings for Floor Pans. Also, you'll find lots of info and advice in the archives by using the search engine of this website.