Bambikiller240

The OEM 70-72 bumpers are little more than that anyways!

Will: I wonder if they actually provide improved light or are just a *decoration*. Carl

Dave: That pic of the overhead light appears to have additional lights all along the plastic panel from R to L. Does it, or is that an illusion?

Thanks Will! Thats a nice looking car! Photographs well anyway. Definitely looks like the the bumperettes are on upside down, and from the looks of the tires and wheels, I'd bet a Happy Meal that the sheetmetal has been carved to allow them to fit. Also looks like there are no center cap on the wheels. Description says 8" wide Front wheels, and 9" wide Rears. But, still it looks like a very nice car. Need detail pics of the "standard problem area's" though to know for sure. "No rust to be concerned with." $hit, IMO any rust should be a concern (to a greater or lesser extent). I sure wouldn't ignore it. Wonder how bad the "issues" with the new paint really are?

Highest that I saw was $4000, but that was on Sunday night.

zhead240: when I go to zcar.com, I find the classified ad, but I don't see a picture there. I think that I've had this problem with zcar.com before. Can anyone post the pic here so I can see it?

picture doesn't appear when I click on link.

Hi Alan: According to www.ZHome.com they list the following equipment changes for N.A. market cars.........." For the 73 Model Year - Carb.'s changed, different E-88 Head Used For Federal Emissions Std.'s in 73. Dash layout changed, with backlight heater/vent controls, new hazzard switch design. Headlight buckets changed from fiberglass to steel. Flame retardent materials were required for interior use. Intermitten windshield wipers added as standard equipment. Two and a half mile per hour bumpers added." ZHome lists production of these cars to have begun in 09/72

U-Joints could cause it too, so check that soon. If U-joints are bad, they will self-destruct in a relatively short time ( 2K miles tops) If a driveshaft was out of balance, the noise wouldn't be isolated to one side of the car. (were you referring to an Halfshaft?)

I'm starting to think that maybe Nissan sourced these units from more than one vendor, and perhaps that accounts for the external differences. On the other hand, I wouldn't be too sure that "........ if the input/output matches the hoses, it should function properly." The internal parts of units (with different part numbers) could be very different even if the exteruior is identical. Another thing, I didn't see "different" hoses listed for this part, at least in the 240Z years (North American market).

Marty: The one on the LEFT looks exactly like the ones I have removed from several 1973 240Z's in Pick N Pull yards The one on the RIGHT looks exactly like the one that I have on my (11/71 mfg'd) 1972 240Z Are you SURE that the one on the LEFT is the correct part for a 1970 240Z?

If the tire/wheel is not out of balance, it could be that the strut on that corner of the car has gone bad and is allowing the wheel and tire to bounce at high speeds. You could have someone follow you down the road and observe that corner ofthe car to see if this is happening. If it is bouncing, replace the struts.

Just trying to give Bill a "brake check".

You're very welcome, Robert. Good luck resolving the bouncing issue.

How do you figure that it's just like a 350Z? I mean I know you own a 350Z, but how are they alike? This I'm interested in hearing. That's a pretty heavy blanket statement. Don't count me under that blanket. I'll be one of the "old timers". Not resisting "any change", just not liking those particular changes. (you know, the changes that almost killed the Z line by 1996) Different strokes for different folks, Mike.

And the Winner is.......................http://www.speedtv.com/articles/auto/dragracing/14870/ Some may not feel he is deserving, but he had one helluva season. A dominating performance. BTW, not only does he drive the car well, he works on his car and the car of his teammate. Not very many driver/mechanics left in professional motorsport these days.

Kinda late to worry about that now, isn't it? Especially since you've already done it (apparently prior to asking his permission).

Is the water at the top of the radiator hot? (Upper Radiator Hose) And is it cold at the bottom of the radiator? (Lower Radiator Hose) If so, it is most likely that the radiator itself is plugged. This is FAR more common than "a clogged passage from the water pump somewhere". The passages in the radiator are much smaller that either the inlet or outlet of the water pump. Water flows from the front of the cylinder head into the top of the radiator, through the radiator and out the lower radiator hose. From there it goes into the water pump which forces the water into the engine block and up to the cylinder head again. Hot water from the fitting at the rear of the cylinder head (passenger side) can reach the heater hoses even if the radiator is plugged up. You might want to have the radiator checked for proper water flow by a competant radiator repairman.

TomoHawk could use a helper, Would you like to move to OHIO?

Sorry, I only covered the replentishment of viscous fluid in that article. No one that I could find had info on replacing bearings and such. I didn't think about reversing the bi-metallic spring. I don't know if that would work or not. If someone has the time to disassemble, it might be worth trying (should someone need a reverse fan clutch). EDIT: On further reflection I *think* that reversing the bi-metallic strip would result in the valve being open when it should be closed, and vice versa Regarding the engines, . That's funny.

Hi Bill: I'm no expert, but since that area is so close to where the T/C Rod connect to the chassis, I would think that the area gets a lot of forces applied to it. IMO, I'd want my car to be as strong as possible in that area. JMO,

If you don't get any refferals here, contact a local Hot Rod club or other car club (Corvettes, , or whatever) and ask them who they trust to do body work for their restorations/modifications.

Here's another $.02, now you have a nickel! I think you've made a wise decision. They may be a bit ugly but they definitely provide more protection than when they are "collapsed". Do you trust SUV/Soccer Moms? ( I don't) How much do you like your shiny new paint job? (Hopefully a lot)

I'm not sure it matters. The sending unit is basically a rheostat (variable resistor)

Mike: This is the way it was explained to me & as I understand it. I'm open to correction. See this page http://www.pbase.com/bronte/image/20486859 It shows a picture of a 280Z Fan Clutch disassembled. Near the outer circumferance there are two rivit heads (for lack of a better term) each is located in a arcing slot. My understanding is that when the bi-metallic switch on the front of the fan clutch is in the off (closed) position, and the "valve" that will eventually allow the fluid to move (activating the "coupling" action) is also closed, the rivit(s) are at or near one end of the arc. The fan will free wheel at this time. When the bi-metallic switch reaches a certain temperature, it "activates" and allows movement (it doesn't "push") of the plate that the rivits are attached to, and the rivits get closer to the other end of the arc, the rotation of the plate allows the valve to open and fluid to move and "couple" the mechanism, engaging the fan. The arcs cut into the plate serve to limit the travel of the other plate (the one with the valve) relative to the one with the arcs.. If what I understand is true, then operating the fan (and fan clutch) in the opposite direction would seem likely to create sufficient rotational force (in the opposite direction from normal rotation) to prevent the plate with the rivits (and valve) from rotating to the point where the valve opens. Said another way, The bi-metallic switch isn't strong enough to "push" the plate with the valve to the open position against the counter rotating forces. Here's a link to other pictures of this system: http://www.pbase.com/bronte/fan_clutch Also, here is a link to an article I prepared on rebuilding the fan clutch. There are links at the bottom of my post to other websites which have info on fan clutches (in general, not specific to Z cars) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10441