Bambikiller240

I'm not sure it matters. The sending unit is basically a rheostat (variable resistor)

Mike: This is the way it was explained to me & as I understand it. I'm open to correction. See this page http://www.pbase.com/bronte/image/20486859 It shows a picture of a 280Z Fan Clutch disassembled. Near the outer circumferance there are two rivit heads (for lack of a better term) each is located in a arcing slot. My understanding is that when the bi-metallic switch on the front of the fan clutch is in the off (closed) position, and the "valve" that will eventually allow the fluid to move (activating the "coupling" action) is also closed, the rivit(s) are at or near one end of the arc. The fan will free wheel at this time. When the bi-metallic switch reaches a certain temperature, it "activates" and allows movement (it doesn't "push") of the plate that the rivits are attached to, and the rivits get closer to the other end of the arc, the rotation of the plate allows the valve to open and fluid to move and "couple" the mechanism, engaging the fan. The arcs cut into the plate serve to limit the travel of the other plate (the one with the valve) relative to the one with the arcs.. If what I understand is true, then operating the fan (and fan clutch) in the opposite direction would seem likely to create sufficient rotational force (in the opposite direction from normal rotation) to prevent the plate with the rivits (and valve) from rotating to the point where the valve opens. Said another way, The bi-metallic switch isn't strong enough to "push" the plate with the valve to the open position against the counter rotating forces. Here's a link to other pictures of this system: http://www.pbase.com/bronte/fan_clutch Also, here is a link to an article I prepared on rebuilding the fan clutch. There are links at the bottom of my post to other websites which have info on fan clutches (in general, not specific to Z cars) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10441

I don't think spinning in both directions is the same as operating or functioning in both directions. Any differences would likely be internal (where the clutch actually resides)

I dunno Third Base

I have a couple of questions too. 1) If fan clutches will work in either direction, why would one be labeled as a "reverse fan clutch"? 2) Who's on first?

The few times I've been to Pick N Pulls, I've been keeping eye out to snag one for you, but no luck so far.

Me too. 2nd and 3rd pics are of the panel on my car.

MikeW: Unless you are seeing something that I don't, I believe that the panel you are refering to in the RR wheelwell is the original Access panel for the filler hose. (The one I sent you a pattern and pictures of last summer when you mentioned that your car was open in that area.)

Hi John: That was my point. Different strokes for different folks. Neither am I. I was just suprised by your statement, given that this club is centered on the S30 varient of Z, and that many people look at the later Z/ZX's only as Organ Donors. (L28's, 5-speeds, R200's, wheels, brakes etc.) I didn't mean to offend you, or your opinion. It's just different than mine.

That's called syphillus, Bill :laugh:

WTF? He already posted in the "Wanted" section.

Hey, No Worries Dave. I'm still scratch'in my head over this thread being exhumed.

Dave, Dave, this thread was buried for almost two years until someone exhumed it's putrid corpse today. The guy who resurrected it doesn't visit the site much (or so it seems 15 posts since 11/2001), he probably didn't even know about your fine relay harness product.

You haven't been here long, have you? You've missed some intense discussions about Z's vs ZX's. S30's vs S130, Z31, Z32, Z33. For the most part, this club is populated with people who's main interest is the S30 version of Z Car. Why would you be suprised? Some of us aren't enamored with a name (well 1/2 of a name anyway), and that's all that a Z32 shares with the (early) previous (S30) iteration of Z. The different versions of Z/ZX are quite different from each other and frankly cater to people with different tastes, and desires. People who like 60's era Corvette's don't necessarily like 1980's Vettes. The same goes with many other models of cars, including the Nissan Z line.. I'm not saying a Z32 is a POS, I'm saying it's SO different from my S30 that I don't care much for it and I don't recognize it as a "Z". It's a Z32 version of a ZX to me. Far, Far different from an S30. PS Even with a "continuation of the line", it DID fade. Sales dropped to nothing point nothing due to various factors including the high sales price and complexity of the car (ie the cost of maintenance). That's why they (Nissan) stopped importing them after the 1996 model.

My car has some too.

Sounds to me like your carbs need adjusting.

I fianlly got to look at all of the picts. The car "shows" well. I agree that the car looks professionally detailed. Lots of "Beauty" shots, but none showing the rocker panel rot and hatch area rot that is mentioned. I'd want a pict of the battery area in close-up also. He doesn't show the door panels good either, but in one shot it appears (possibly) that the speakers he mentioned have been installed in the doors. (Picture from passenger side with door open, behind the shifter it looks like there is a speaker tucked into the drivers door) With the Z knowledge that seller exhibits, the omission of picts of the "warts" and common problem areas makes me wary. :nervous: But, if I could inspect it myself, in person, I would do so, and if I found the "warts" easily repairable & I could afford it, I'd consider buying it.

I'm not familiar with the title issue, but it makes me nervous. :nervous: Same with the seller driving the car around with what "sounds like" a stuck valve. :nervous: :nervous: If this car has sat for as long as he claims, the brake system is basicly shot and will need complete rebuild. Probably the same for fuel tank, vent hoses, etc. Radiator/Heater Core may be rotten too. It does look very nice (nice enough that I wonder about it being in a barn for 10 years) and the seller sounds like a car dealer, not one of the 2 owners. (How much of what he says about the car can be trusted to be true? I dunno.)

Check their website for more info. You can dowload lots of info to your computer for future refference. D5 is meant only to maintain clean contacts. If the metal is oxidized, they reccommend the 100% product to clean, then a light coat of D5 periodically.

I bought directly from Caig (the manufacturer). They do sell on eBay, but currently they are only selling "DeOxiT D5" (which is the 5% solution on eBay. The 100% solution is much better for cleaning contacts and connectors. The D5 is best for periodic maintainance of clean, un-oxidized connections Check out the Caig website. There are PDF documents that you can download that describe all of the products and thier uses. Caig Website (makers of DeOxiT products

another thread resurected after being dead for almost 2 years.

I drove a Z32TT "once". Test driving it for a member who lived cross country. Can't say I liked it much. Felt VERY heavy. IMO the braking was not as good as I expected. I'm used to driving a much lighter 240Z

Nate: On the back cover of the diff, there is a filler plug. It can be a little difficult to get to, but you can do it. If your driveshaft needs new U-Joints, don't wait too long. The original owner of my car had the front U-Joint fail and the d/s bounced all over the tunnel of the chassis before he could get stopped. Not a pretty sight. What kind of noise is coming from the left rear? Choke adjustment is easy. Loosen screws where choke cable attach to carb linkage, adjust linkage to remove slack (**Make sure the choke lever is pushed fully forward when doing this!), and retighten screws to secure cables.

Also, one of the ZTherapy video's showed how to make a metal bracket to mount to the console as a means of speading the load out and repairing consols that had damaged choke lever mounting points.

That's my bet too!