Bambikiller240

Yeah, I realized that at the end of my post. I found the info below on the www.Zhome.com website. Didn't find a reference to 5.5" wheels 4.5J-14 steel wheels with 175 SR 14 tires on first Z's brought to USA, then Starting with VIN HLS30 046000 (mfg 10/71) 5 Inch Wide Wheels were made Standard

So you didn't buy it, but are going to work on it?

We've been doing this for years. No need to go to a shop for it to be done. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10538 The two wires for the pertronix ignitor are easily routed along the original wires and hidden. Much less obvious than a Crane (POS) system, or the ZX Upgrade Dist.

OEM Steel Wheels or Mags? If Mags, are they the correct offset? On my car I can use 195/70 X 14 tires, or 205/60 X 14's. If I use 205/70 X 14 tires they rub the rear fenders a bit. Your mileage may vary. PS, you might try a search of the site. I believe that OEM steel wheels were 5" wide, but I'm not positive. It has been discussed befroe though.

Yep, Loop Pile is the original. Guess that '71 isn't completely original. Not uncommon.

Air pressure would be my first suggestion to try to clear the lines, but that won't get the crud out of the tank (where it came from)or keep it from plugging things up again. Only way i know to remedy the situation is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, repaired and sealed. While it's out you can flush the lines with solvent, or gas, and more air. Change filters too. If you can't get air through the lines, it becomes more difficult. May have to try to run a wire through the lines to break up clogs, or replace the lines. Hopefully it wouldn't come to this. Good Luck

My new "Nissan OEM Rebuilt" Distributor has at least 1/4" to 5/16" of movement in the Vac Advance. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=108599&posted=1#post108599

FWIW, the missing screw doesn't have anything to do with setting the fuel mixture, it's related to balancing the operation of one carb against the operation of the other carb.

, I wonder what else is missing. Why buy new plugs? You can't clean the ones you have?

Carb adjust could very well be part of it, but why would you want to mess with the carbs before making sure that they weren't going to get screwed up again by old jellied fuel and crud from the tank? Step, by step. It's highly unlikely that there is just one problem needing to be addressed. After confirming that the fuel supply is good (volume and clean) I'd check the filters at the carbs first, the one on the passengerside second (I'd cut it open and examine it) You can get a new Fram #G3359 fuel filter for about $4 almost anywhere. Do (or have it done) a complete tune-up on the engine and carbs. I wouldn't suggest driving the car with an alternate, 1 gal can of fuel. Getting a car that has sat for 5 years to operate safely and properly isn't a matter of simply changing filters and driving away. You will likely have several issues resulting from it sitting idle for such a long time to deal with in the near future. Brakes, cooling system, fuel tank are just a few of the possible[/] problem areas you may need to address. Do yourself a favor and check (or have them checked) the rear brakes (cylinders) for safe abd proper operation. They often go bad when a car sits for a long time. You don't want to find they are bad at the moment you need them the most.

I checked the website and TiVo, and the only showing is 11/30

, thats what I thought. You could have 3 gallons of gas in there. Even if it was 1/2 gallon (hint, it likely wouldn't even start with 1/2 gallon in the tank), how much crap do you think it takes to plug things up?

Those are defintely "Precision Replacement Parts" plastic bags. Nissan weatherstrips for 240Z DO NOT (did not) come with the welting. Welting was a completely different and separate part number. I strongly doubt (can't prove it) that Precision was the O.E. supplier to Nissan, and even if they were, (long ago) their current product is NOT the same. The only place I've heard of "BAD-MFG" is on eBay. Some people like them, Some hate them. I bought OEM (at a price of significantly less than the $220 quoted) because I wasn't interested in slamming my doors for any length of time just to get the seals to fit properly.

1 question, how do you arrive at a estimate of fuel in the tank? How much of that old gas was jelly and rust, crud, etc (that could now be plugging your fuel lines and filter? In addition to the filter on the passenger-side engine bay, there are filters in the (both) inlet fitttings at your carb float bowls. Setting points is pretty basic stuff, if you have a dwell meter, and timing light. Any shop manual (Factory, Haynes, Chiltons, etc) should have it. It's a bit difficult to describe briefly in a forum.

No message inteneded here, Will. (saving that for a different thread) Ah, used parts. Silly me was getting excited that there was a source for new parts (or at least a source where one could consistantly find those rotors) at that price. Actually, I should have read the post more carefully. I thought you got ROTORS for $30. Silly me.

I hope the show can find some charectors to replace them.

Hmm, maybe http://www.historychannel.com/ ??? click on "store". Select "Shop by Show". select the name of the show. Click "Buy It Now".

Show will be on TV again on 11/30 at 1 PM PACIFIC TIME ( 4 PM Eastern)

Maybe he just woke up and realized it wasn't a 30K car yet. Since then the bidding has only gotten to $24K and no sale.

I have it. Send me a PM with your email addy and I'll hook you up.

When you changed all the fluids, did you drain ALL of the gas out of the tank, and lines, change filter and replentish with fresh gas? Sounds to me like possibly a fuel problem from sitting for so long with stale gas.

Glad that you got it Chris. You were pretty quick. It only lasted 20 minutes and 9 seconds!

Do you by chance have a pic of them Will? $30 sounds like a great price.

, The twins need some work (like in another profession, maybe a carnival sideshow)