Bambikiller240

Set the timeing to the factory spec, then try adjusting your carbs. When I rebuilt my engine last year I had similar problems. It turned out to be that the carbs were out of adjustment and could not supply the rebuilt engine's needs. A quick tune of the SU's and the problem went away.

Start for WHAT? a fishing expedition? Anyone would have better luck using Google and typing in "Window Defroster". (I did it) http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=Window+Defroster

Someone asked the seller aboutthese parts and he replied, claiming they are from a 72 240Z. I have never seeen them on any of the 240Z's that I've owned or worked on. They look slightly similar to the hinge socks (which would be rubber, not plastic) for the hatch hinges, but with such a crappy picture, it is impossible to be sure. I think the seller is clueless also. He's also selling a set of hood hinges fitting 69 thru 80"s Z Car 69 thru 80's Hood Hinges

Not only that, but most of the Hooters Girls make pretty decent money with tips and all. At least more than the dyke in the photo that probably works in a Dil*o shop

The ones I've seen on eBay tend to go for $250 - $300, though it has been a while since I was following prices on them. (used, of course) If a guy could find a Diesel Maxima in a boneyard he could get one for a lot cheaper though. Guess it all depends on how "resourceful" a buyer is as to what it is worth to him.

Vicky: They are still out there. Thrush is sold by Dynomax, and Cherry Bomb is sold by Maremont. What I used to get a kick out of was the boneheads who would take the Logo Sticker included with every muffler and apply it to the Muffler after installation! :stupid:

Now I am confused. The wiring diagram from Enrique seems to show the meter (red lines) testing across the BLACK lines. Yes? No? If YES, how does testing the BLACK line that relate to the BLUE line at all, since the BLUE line doesn't appear to be connected to anything? (meter or BLACK lines)

If the valve has snapped off like in this picture, you can drill out or EZ-Out the threads that are stuck in the manifold. I'm going to try dressing up what is left of the threads on the valve and re install it. It won't matter much to me if it isn't water tight since I block off the other end of the valve with a bolt and silicone so there won't be any flow. From what 2ManyZs told us, the valve shuts off water flow at 80 degrees F, so just using a nipple and allowing flow at all times would seem to be a sure fire recipe for carb problems (once the water is up to 180 to 190 degrees F) Here are a few threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14245 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13973&highlight=80+degrees

:stupid: That is as false of a statement as I've ever heard. You may not like Drifting, but is most certainly is NOT driving in a straight line.

Keep in mind that the Datsun OEM part is a valve that shuts off water flow at a pre-determined water tempurature so that the carbs and manifold are only heated until the engine warms up. Allowing water flow at all times will likely result in issues with the carburetors not operating well. Many of us (even those with a valve) disconnect or otherwise disable the manifold/carb preheat feature if we don't have really cold weather to deal with.

Good Luck. My experience has been that after 30 years, they will not come out of a manifold without getting destroyed. I've been trying to get one for a spare manifold for 2 years now and I've broken 4 in attempts to remove them from JY cars. IF Nissan still sells them, they are way too pricey for me.

Impressive driving! That Mini "Stoppy" looked like fun!

Not to mention your neighbors.

Where EXACTLY do these hoses you are looking to identify start and end? Do they start at the Carb Float bowls and go to the Air Cleaner? Do they start at the Flow Guide Valve (on the inner fender below the coil) and go to the Air Cleaner? In either case they are NOT vacuum hose, they are fuel/oil rated. The hose from the Flow Guide Valve and from the Float Bowls to the Air cleaner are not available from Nissan (Chloe searched for over 2 months trying to get some for me) The hoses were originally a METRIC sized hose (naturally), but 1/4" ID hose will work fine for the Float Bowl to Air Cleaner, but will not look OEM as Nissan used hoses that had much thinner wall thickness ( and no reinforcing cord) than what is available currently. Sorry, I don't have my original hoses. They were so brittle from age that I couldn't use them, and Chloe couldn't find OEM stock, so I tossed them and used generic 1/4" modern hoses. I found OEM hose for the Flow Guide to Air Cleaner at a Junk Yard that wasn't in too bad of shape.

Well, at least you know more of how to get it all apart again to fix that leak. Like the tools/precedure to get that frickin bolt loose. Clean ALL the gasket surfaces perfectly, use new, undamaged gaskets and a thin film of sealant, and most of all......work slow and careful every step of the way & your care will be back on the road in no time.

I reposted the attachments with labels inserted into the images.

I'm not real sure, but I was told that the change came with the 260Z.

These pics illustrate the differences between early and late "Datsun" script. As for DATSUN Fender emblems, the Microfiche CD shows only one part and lists a quantity of 2 required per vehicle. PN# 63805 - E4600, superceded to PN #63805 - E4601 for Production to 07/73. I have never seen a "LEFT slant" DATSUN fender emblem & microfiche seems to confirm that it doesn't exist. At least for North American models.

AFAIK, you cannot get the diaphram separately. In the USA, almost any Parts Store can ge the pumps. An NISSAN OEM pump would be quite expensive compared to an OEM equivilant from a parts store.

Diaphram inside the pump is shot. Buy a new pump

IIRC, someone found a post on zcar.com that claimed that it worked on Z's. (probably started there by the eBay seller of these thangs)

About a year and a half ago when I was shopping for weatherseals, I called or emailed everyone I could find on the internet that offered seals for 240Z's including "datsunrestore.com" (which is actually "Too Intense Restoration" aka Troy Thacker) and every one of them who would give the manufacturers name indicated that it was from PRP (Precision Replacement Parts). That was about 80% of the people that I contacted. FYI, some of what Troy sells is made by or for him, at least in terms of upholstery, shift boots, e-brake boots, etc. I have found (in the past) that if he doesn't specify that an item is "Nissan OEM" you had better ask rather than assume. That is not meant as a slam to Troy, it's just my observation from past dealings with his company.

Ed: The people I talked with indicated that the rubber used to make the PRP seals did not seem to be as compliant (soft) as the OEM seal material. They thought that was themain problem. $487 seems high for the PRP kit. Was that price on their site or somewhere else? You could buy a lot of OEM seals for that $$$.