Bambikiller240

As far as I know there are only two "suppliers" of weatherseals for 240Z's. 1. OEM Nissan 2. Precision Replacement Parts ( http://www.prp.com/prp/ ) These people make and distribute the non-OEM seals and kits sold by MSA, Vic Brit, Too Intense, ZTherapy, and everyone else that I've heard of. I will always spend the money for OEM. ALWAYS. Especially for Door Seals. I've heard too many complaints about problems with closing the doors after installing PRP seals. A few people have claimed to have no problems, but many more have related serious issues. It's not worth the gamble for me.

Back in the day I used to win cases of beer from some people that I went to college with by getting them to bet that I couldn't get 2 - 8 foot long 2" by 4"'s completely inside my Z. It isn't as small of a car as people think.

Operator error or faulty bleeding equip are likely causes. Try a search of our site using "bleeding brakes" or "Brake bleeding". The proper procedure has been discussed many times. FWIW, Consider investing in Speed Bleeders for your car. Simple, no hassle, one man brake bleeding. (Do a search on "Speed Bleeders" also)

27 MM Socket / Wrench

I'm 6' 2" and have no problems.

Be Careful, I think that nail polish remover might eat or discolor the plastic. I've tried it on a couple of different materials and it seems to be pretty tough on plastics.

Hey Dave: Are you saying that the headlights are powered through all of the top 3 fuses on the right side of the fusebox? BOTH Headlamps through 3rd from Top on Right and Left Headlamp through Top Right Right Headlamp through 2nd from Top on Right I tried to follow the schematic I have, but I get lost in the fusebox area. it's clear as mud to me.

They just snap into the back of the gauges. Getting to them is a bitch. Unless you have spaghetti arms, and eyes on the ends of your fingers. If I was going to do what you plan, I'd pull the entire dash out to do it. Just My $.02

Bad Elecrical portion of the Ignition switch? (on the back of the lock assembly)

From the 2002 Blackhawk Datsun Show. After getting an Autograph from Mr. K, was one of the highlights of the show

I've had success with putting the transmission in 4th gear, setting the E-brake HARD, and then using a socket and long breaker bar. It doesn't always work, but almost every time I've done it worked. If it doesn't work .....then find an Impact gun.

The problem may be in finding a line w/ nuts short enough for this application. Of course, you can bend the tubing into a corkscrew to use up the "inches" that you don't need. I had to do that on a line to the RF brake caliper once. If you are interested in having a Stainless Steel (or even a Mild steel) line made up (or ever need other lines made up, there are two places I've done business with that provide good service and quality workmanship: Classic Tube Inline Tube You send them your damaged line, they return it and a new exact duplicate line.

I've never seen the flare nuts sold separately (at least not in the last 10 years). As Victor says, if you kill the nut, it's best to replace the line. The brake master cylinder lines are (were last time I checked) still available from Nissan and weren't too expensive. Best way to remove them is with a small pair of Vice-Grips and lots of penetrant. NOT WD-40 ! ! Use something like PB Blaster, or my favorite, Kroil; and a lot of care. Apply some anti-seize to the threads (only) before reinstallation

The people who are most knowledgable about this stuff are at www.hybridZ.org. While there are a few V8 Z car people here, the club is mostly comprised purists who stick with original Nissan equipment.

I hope not. The pic of your car is one (huge) reason I can't understand the effort to make this POS work in an application is was not intened to be used in.

FUSE? Fuses can look good and still be bad. Pull them and test with an Ohm-meter. Cost about $.50 to put in a new fuse and eliminate that as a possible cause of your problem.

Mike, I think my response is being seen with more "ferocity" than I intended. I was just pointing out the reasons / facts as I see them. Indeed to each his own. The only ferosity I have in this area is shadetree mechanics (I don't recall any of us being ASE certified, or professional auto mechanics and yet disagreeing with the wisdom of the manufacturer, and professional mechanics who serviced these cars. Who had many problems with these things, even to the point where they issued service buletins, and dealers illegally replaced the Flats with Rounds when their "professional" mechanics could not resolve the customer complaints. It's not just a bunch of "shadetree" mechanics who have low opinions of these carbs. The manufacturer didn't like them either. That's it, that's all I was trying to get across. If they work good for you (or anyone else), great. My first Z was a 73 and had Flats on it. I didn't have any reliability issues, and performance was fine (but I had nothing to compare against). When I rebuilt my 71 Z (using the 73 Z motor) I switched to Rounds, and I noticed a marked difference in the seat of my pants, and the smile on my helmeted face. Originality is something I understand and value, but that wasn't what Shane4golf seemed interested in. F.I. (properly set up) certainly should out perform either carb. Peace?

The fact remains that they were not designed to provide power or performance. They were solely used to satisfy the EPA requirements for emissions. They were used here for 2 years and dropped like a hot rock by the people (Nissan) who chose to use them on their product. Did the HP of the L24 drop when Flat Tops (and the late E88 head) were added? Absolutely. Can they be made to operate satisfactorily? Probably. Can "Patience and skill" overcome the inherent design of the Flat Top carbs? I strongly doubt it. Do Round Top carbs out perform them? Regularly. When was the last time any of you heard of a Z with Flat Tops running 12 sec quarter mile times like Norm? N.E.V.E.R.

Good Point Stephen. The suspension was "refined" (altered) in the 280Z years (as opposed to 240Z years) I think that they (Nissan) made many alterations, like most auto manufacturers do.

We get LOWER octane than many parts of the country. I think Vicky mentioned that in Florida they can get 98 octane or something like that. Other states have 95 octane. The choices we have in Cali are 87, 89, and 91. But it's not just that the octane is low in Cali, the recipe includes funky chemicals that are claimed to reduce smog. Of course, one of the last additives they put in our gasoline (called MTBE) turned out to be a poisen that accumulated in our lakes and streams quite rapidly. The oil industry touted this poison as the "be all / end all" of chemicals to reduce smog. Our foolish leaders then jumped the gun and mandated it's use almost immediately. In spite of the concerns of many chemists and scientists who warned that more study was needed before using this chemical. Well, the result is that it's been used for 5 or more years now, and this chemical now shows up in many lakes, streams, and underground water tables. They are going to remove it from gasoline soon, but the damage has been done. http://www.waterindustry.org/mtbe-harmful.htm

You guys talk funny!

Of course it is your choice. However, the consensus of the vast majority of people who have had Flat Tops on their own car is that they are JUNK when compared to Round Tops. MOM's Flat Tops may be manufactured to perform differently than what you have in your USA delivered Z. (since he lives in another country far, far away from US Emissions standards) Make your own decision, but don't ignore the opinions of the many, due to a few lone discenting voices.

The springs are different between 240 and 280. Wouldn't that mandate a different location for the spring perches, even if the body stayed the same? I have a bunch of springs and some 240 and 280 Strut tubes buried in the garage. I should look, but it's the wet season and I'm really not too motivated.

Alfa: I've heard various estimates for how much of our oil consumption is domesticly produced. Sadly, the numbers are not high. The numbers I have heard bounced around are in the neighborhood of 2/3 of our consuption is supplied from foreign producers, and 1/3 of consuption produced domesticly. Even the oil we produce in Alaska is shipped to other countries like Japan to feed the greed of the oil companies. Our country really needs to work on this. Dependence on foreign oil is a huge problem for this country and results in our government making strange bedfellows with some really unsavory governments around the world. (Not to mention providing an excuse to park thousands of our young men and women half way around the world where they are dying every day) The huricanes may have an impact on gasoline supplies in the Eastern and Southern parts of the USA, but not in California. Our (CA) politicians have mandated a far different recipe for gasoline than is used in most (if not all) other states of the union. California's gas is produced solely within our state. Which is part of the reason that our gas prices are typically higher than other areas of the country. In most other states, if supplies fall, gas from neighboring states can be brought in to fill the shortfall. In CA that can't happen because the refineries in other states are not set up to produce the "recipe" that is mandated in CA. When our California supply gets low, we are up sh*t creek without a paddle.........and here come the oil companies to jack up the prices even further than they do in other area of the country.