Bambikiller240

Note shipping cost. This guy is charging double what it could be shipped for.

I know. My eyes bugged out of their sockets when I saw what the guy had done to my truck windshield gasket. It was too late for me to stop him as the damage had already been done. No replacement gasket available in his truck and me 50 miles from home (at work). Driving home without a windshield would have been insane. I don't know if all of the glass replacement companies do this, but I know I'll be inquiring (and demanding proper work) before a finger gets laid on any vehicle of mine again.

Gary: I have been having the same issue this evening. For me it is also affecting the forum pages (I have the same white rectangle between the left collumn and the Posts), it scrunches up the posts so they are narrower and longer than normal. I also noticed tha the "Donations" block on the Home page is wider that the rest of the left collumn (it extends into the "white rectangle"). I was beginning to think my computer was hosed.

It's fairly simple. From the Home Page, "Main Menu" block on left, click "PHOTO GALLERY". When you get to a Photo Gallery Page, lokk at upper RIGHT of the page. See where it says "Upload Photo's" ?? Click that and follow along. PS you don't see you user name when you go to member galleruies because you don't have a gallery yet. You have to upload something before you will have a gallery.

MikeW: I don't know about the "mobile installers" in your area, but out here they don't do the R & R the old fashion way, They cut your gasket in half, remove the old glass, lay in the new windsheild into the opening, and then apply tons of sealant and lay the top of the gasket onto the car. It's a really horrible way to repair a windshield. I mention this as a warning to make sure you know "HOW" they will effect the replacement before you let them touch your car.

It's good to warn others of sellers who charge outrageous shipping. I also try to use a shipping calculator and sometimes add in 50 cents to cover a USPS Delivery Confirmation Number on Priority Mail shipping.

1. Best bet is to use the shipping calculator provided, then decide if you want to bid. 2. If one isn't provided, email the seller for a quote before bidding. 3. If he/she doesn't reply, don't bid. 4. If you bid anyway, don't whine. You are your own worst enemy.

That will depend on if it can be made to fit and work properly in a Z. IIRC, in the other thread people were having problems closing the hood when using this strut bar. "There is no free lunch"

Yup, The pedal arm concentrates all the force applied by your leg in one place, the middle of the pin. By the time the forces get from the pin to the yoke of the clevis, they are spread out 50/50 to the two areas that the pin contacts on the yoke.

There is another thread about this auction. The seller seems to have an attitude problem.

Call Nissan. That's where I bought mine. Price was cheap. FWIW, you had better look under the dash before you go ordering pins. Generally it is the pedal arms themselves that get distorted more than the pins. (the pins are hardened, the arms are not) Now don't get me wrong, you'll need pins, but you are also likely to need to have the pedal arms repaired as well. The (used to be) round holes in my pedal arms had become severely elongated in addition to the clevis pins being tore up. I had to have bushings welded into the pedal arms to restore the holes to the proper diameter as well as replacing the clevis pins. Everything is perfect now.

When setting up the Shipping Calculator, you can program in to it any amount of "handling fee" that you wish. It is up to the bidder to have enough sense to actually use the tool that is provided to know his/her costs. "Caveat Emptor :The axiom or principle in commerce that the buyer alone is responsible for assessing the quality of a purchase before buying."

See EScanlon's post above. 'Nuff Said.

Motorsport Auto http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC03 Front Strut Bar PN #23-4201 @ $109.95 Rear Strut Bar PN #23-4206 @ $109.95

Damn, those scratches are really bad.

Andrew beat me to it. (PS, Andrew, you have a PM)

Cracks? Real Cracks, or Scratches? Pictures?

Where?????

Same thread/pitch as head bolts.

Mine (71, and 72) had a bit of blue overspray around the flange area, but were mostly black. When I rebuilt them, they were painted all black. Overspray shows a lack of commitment.

Here is the place to inquire about this sort of thing. www.hybridz.org The guys in this club do all sorts of transplants and conversions.

bartman: Only 2 thoughts I have are: 1. Wether the ballast resistor is used or not is dependent on the coil you are using. If the coil needs a resistor and you don't run one, the coil will die fairly soon, so if you don't know what your coil needs, I'd run it "with" the resistor in the system. 2. I used to have an XR700 on my car, but HATED it so much that I tossed it and the instructions in the trash, and installed the Pertonix.

Hi Brandy: I'm afraid that I don't know about those products sold at Home Depot or Lowes. You might check the packaging to see if automotive useage is listed there. I tend to stick with stuff that is sold specifically for automotive usage. BTW, here's the URL for Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodco.com/ Good Luck

The very same Stock and Pertronix diagrams were available to you here, on this website in our Technical Articles forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10538 You originally asked for an XR700 Diagram which we don't have. Had you asked for a Stock diagram or a Pertronix diagram we could have saved you some effort.

There is insulation all the way up the firewall ("up under the dash"), also insulation all the way up and over the transmission tunnel ("center console part"). There are areas cut out of the OEM (factory) insulation where things like the ashtray, and fuse box brackets are located. You can find insulation at generally cheaper prices through Eastwood, or other such resellers on the Net. I would try to cover the entire floorpan area (including under the seats, and the small area behind the seats. This will help to keep more heat out, and also help with noise as well.