rusty260z

could you not hook up to a GPS system or electronic points on road (similar to racing systems that tell position of cars etc) and instructions are only read at certain point, so even if your slower or had a spin off etc, will still get apporiate instructions when required.

i am planning on buying really good quality/expensive 4" with tweeter component speakers with crossovers, installing the 4" in stock location, and having tweeter in front on top of door edge facing drivers. and running a 10" tube (bazooka) sub ported at the back, cause they take up less space. hopefully will sound alright.

they'll fit old mark 1 / 2 ford escorts n capri , dont know if you had those in america,

http://www.worldlingo.com/wl/translate?wl_lp=none-none&wl_glossary=gl1&wl_fl=0&wl_rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.att.ne.jp%2Fsky%2FFairladyZ%2FPlice%2FPlice1.htm&wl_url=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.att.ne.jp%2Fsky%2FFairladyZ%2FPlice%2FPlice1.htm&wl_g_table=-3 for translation click on above link, and just change lanuage setting on top to see in english not sure of accuracy though.

i own a 2+2 as well, thing is for a daily driver, those two back seats came in handy, eg, pick up kid from school and have to drop the friend of as well out of the blue, and other examples, probably only reason nissan made the 2+2. as for wieght and lenght, on some thread, have read the extra lenght makes it more balanced, if i read it right that is, and the weight really, wont matter that much on the road, slightly slower than another 2 seater z, but it is not going to happen often that you will be racing another z on the road anyways, mostly a much faster newer car will be always be faster aganist a slightly modified zed. aboves for road only, tracks another thing altogether

a bit old, but i trying to get mine back on the road, the parts i have to change is the hear hatch and front hood, and maybe doors. will the g-nose be a issue for changing the bonnet. my likely source for a parts car is probably a 280z probably a 2+2 question 2 - was there much difference btw a l20e and l20et. (matter of curiosity) also were the wing mirrors originally used on the japan cars, used on any other cars or close abouts design wise. thanks

i think the are making the code for that now, lan is working, but cool thing is the old school cars made for the games by other guys, theres even a bre 240z

http://www.racer.nl/

http://www.alljapanesecars.com/viewcr.php3?mk=Nissan&md=Fairlady&yr=1975&mc=GS30 not alot of info but a pic, plus can see all the models

dam after reading this tread im on longer selling my own car, had it already listed as well. guss ill just store it for a while.

-personal experience only , dont know if it applies to others 2. rust and more bloody rust, 3. depends on how many z are in ure area for parting out, but you can buy almost anything of the internet for a price. bread and butter parts like slave cylinders arnt really expansive, id say cheaper than newer cars. 4. bit of smoke at start up, and a bit of oil use, have to top up or change my oil every 6 months. basically have to check your oil probably once a week. the secondary stuff i my car has given out before the actual engine and trans, so far, alternator, cluth slave and master cylinder, fuel pump. only things left are brakes, oil and water pumps and shocks. i guss if you get a engine thats been looked after it should last a while. most rebuild are to get more power. 5.im sorry to say not the greatest. 30 Liters usually last me 120 km, but then i do drive hard often, just cant help my self in the dam thing. also the fuel guage in my car isnt really very accurate, i usually fill up just to be safe, and aftermarket guage would be really helpful in figuring out real milage. Also it dosnt pic up the fuel if it drop below a certain level (about 1/8 fill) aand starts stalling at the lights, again could be a case for only my car. if you gona use the car a lot, make sure that the a/c or air blower works, that it defrost the windows, and that it dosnt let in exhaust fumes from rear hatch, also that it waterproof, all the lights work, its the little things that really make using my car diffcult. laters

http://www.xu1.net/users/eram/home.html searched the other supercharger treads but they were based on belt driven versions, this seems to be a good idea, but at $500 for 6% max gain would it be worth it, it only operates at full Throttle. my car has a L20 fuel injected, roughly 70 hp right (im gussing) 6% gain would equal 4.2 hp is that cost effective, when compared to power gained. id like to keep the l20 but a little more power cant hurt are there any disadvantages to this method or could i spend the 500 and gain more from doing other mods. thanks in advance for imparting your wisdom.

cool link explain all the different door opening options http://www.importprecision.com/faq_vls_door_tutorial.htm

does the butterfly doors only use a single hinge ?

was readind hybridZ about same thing last night, pretty heated discussion happening, about practicality, getting in and out, strength of kit, and making door fit properly.