PROJECTRB240SX

They Look To Be 5zigen Fn01rc Off Of A S14 240sx/silvia.

Jagsthatrun.com Writes That Book And You Can Order It Off Thier Website.

The R180 And R200 Should Hold Fine Unless You Are Going For Over 500whp. The R180 Is Know To Hold Clear Past 350whp And I've Got A Friend With A Rb25det In His 240sx With Over 450whp. Your More In Danger Of The Stub Axle U-joints Breaking Than The Diff.

No You Don't Just Have A Driveshaft Built With A Gm Yoke And Nissan Diff Flange.

Those Things Are Glorified Fans.... People Have Purchased Those And Relised Losses Because It Becomes A Restriction And Actually Chops Up The Air Flow Causing Problems During Induction. If You Want To Try It By All Means Go Ahead But Those Can Be Found On Ebay For 1/4 And At $500 You Are Throwing Your Money Away.

I'm Not Talking About Cooling Water.... I'm Talking About A Directiionally Sealed Box (one Inlet Port And One Outlet Port For Air Flow) Sealed Box With Two Cores And Blowing Open Air Through The A/c Evap Core And Through The Intercooler..... Having A Sealed Box Like That Would Contain The Ultra Cold Air Produced By The A/c System And Essentially Chill The Ic Down To Freezing Temps (with Such A Small Area To Cool A A/c Compressor Wouldn't Have To Work At All To Keep Up... Plus Remember The Only Source Of Heat Is The Ic Itself So The A/c Is More Than Efficient) As For Water To Air Coolers... On The Street If You Barely Boost Why Bother? You'll Have Added Water Weight, Twice The Plumbing, And Twice The Heat Transfer Cores..... A Whole Lot Of Money And Work For A Few Degrees..... I Pose This Query To You Now At This Point: Why Do All The Gt And Road Race Cars Use Air To Air Ic Units If Water Is More Effective? The Simple Fact Of The Matter Is That Using Ambient Air To Cool The Water Then The Water With Temps Higher Than Ambient To Cool The Charge Air There Is Going To Be Heat Build Up Much Like A Air To Air Cooler But Atleast The Air To Air Cooler Is Direct Transfer Not Using A Second Medium.

Its Not Smart For The Street..... Its Only Super Effective For The Track (Also Has Been Around Longer Than I Have Been Alive). Water To Air Ic's Are The Only Way To Go When You Want Super Effective Cooling For The Air Stream. On The Street Its Not Effective Because The Water Would Heat Up Over Time And Then You Would Need A Radiator For It And You Could In No Way Keeping Up The Same Cooling Rate As A Good Air To Air Ic. What I Was Thinking About Doing Is Hooking Up A A/c Compressor With R12 Freon And Sealing A Ic Core And Evaporator Core In One Box With A Fan Blowing Air Through The Evap Core And Over The Ic Core To Super Cool It Full Time..... With Proper Freon Levels And A Good Blower Motor You Can Realize Below Freezing Temps From A A/c System.

Water To Air Coolers With A Dry Ice Unit Have Been Used In Drag Racing For 20+ Years..... These Maintain Below Ambient Air Temps For Maximum Power. I've Got A Buddy With One Of Those Co2 Systems That Have A Throttle Body Air Cooler, Fuel Rail Cooler, And Ic Cooler.... I Think Its Made By Dei. Well Anyway He Has Noticed 30 Degree Cooler Charge Temps When He Activates It. There Are Kits Similar To The Co2 System But Instead Of Co2 And A Ic Cooler Its N20 And Air Stream Injection For Maximum Cooling.

If You Want Real Response.... Ls1/t56 Combo With A Clutch Supercharger (for Disengagement) And A Twin Turbo System... I Know Its Alot Of Piping But You'll Have Instant Full Boost And Hold It All The Way To The 7000rpm Redline. You Just Have To Have The Supercharger Disengage When The Turbo Is At Full Spool... Best Way I Can See This Working Is With A Pressure Switch Hooked Up To The Clutch. BTW: PLEASE NOTE SARCASIM EVEN THOUGH IT WOULD BE COOL.

You Need To Figure Out If You Want Responivness Or High Rpms? They Are Two Ends Of The Spectrum..... If You Want Response Build A Torqueir Motor; If You Want High Rpms Build A Long Rod, Short Stroke, And Large Piston Motor... Or Build A Two Stroke!

Rb20's Have A T3 Flanged T25.... So You Are Better Off Sticking With A T3 Flanged Turbo. There Are 10 To 1 Turbo Rb's Running Around. A Guy Here In Az Has A Turbo Rb25de Thats Putting Out Decent Power. I Know Of A Few Turbo'd Rb25de Neo Motors. If You Have Proper Tuning And Enough Octane You Will Be Fine. I Personally Would Build A Rb30det Or Dett If I Was Going To Spend The Time Turboing A Na Motor.

I Hope You Know Of A Way To Bore A Motor From 78mm To 86mm. Why Would You Step Down From A T3 Flange To A T2 Flange? My Suggestion Buy Either A Rb20de And Turbo It Or Build A Rb30dett Using A Rb26dett Head With Small Turbine And Large Compressor Turbos If You Want Resposive. Also You'll Get Better Response Froma Log Style Manifold Over A Equal Length Because The Exhaust Pulses Will Be Hitting The Turbo All The Time Rather Than In Intervals (although The Are Small Intervals).

It Was Purchased.... NoW I Have To Wait Till Thursday For The City To Finish Fog Sealing The Road....I'LL BE CALLING YOU TONIGHT WHEN I GET HOME FROM WORK.

One Guy Is Supposed To Come And Pick It Up Sunday But We Will See.

As For The 240z Nose... I Looked Into It Awhile Ago And Its About A $3k Plus Conversion And I Would Rather Have A Real 240z That Weighs About 300lbs Less.