khughes

Yep, I went through that issue on an early Z.. see above.. after carefully grounding down the bottom nub on the struts.. they worked for me!

Thanks Joseph, I took a hack saw to just on 4mm of the nubs last night and they sit nicely in the struts now.. just need to level off the cut a tiny bit on the weekend which should add minimal heat i hope, hopefully just a quick rub with a flap or grinding disk

Thanks @Joseph@TheZStore for the confirmation that they are the correct inserts (phew!), your advice and appreciate you asking around on the cutting/cooling for this situation.. it looks like that is my best option (and thank goodness they have the nubs to grind down to give me those needed few mm's!) Your 100% correct in that the history of modification done on these struts are entirely unknown, and i certainly don't see it as a fitment issue that would apply to anyone else's situation. I did do some research prior to confirm they were standard length (and there is certainly no sign of cutting either, on the tube or the top threads ), but having not modified them myself i can only guess! There was limited option in adjustable standard length shock inserts (i understood the GC option to be for sectioned struts), and i am still very grateful that you have developed this option for us! I am also very thankful for the information and support both yourself and Lee from Koni has added in this thread - its a rare opportunity and part of the reason i went down this road. as a side note - The car is not for track, just trying to clean up and mildly upgrade what i can to enhance it's on-road personality.. The GC kit came to me second hand with the tokico's and 300+ lb/in springs, it had clearly been track focused and unsuitable for my needs (i never ran them this way, just started rebuilding them when i got them). On advice from GC, i have new 150/175 lb/in springs going in to try and keep things within a comfortable range of standard, hopefully this suits the intended Koni shock performance curve.. i am pretty sure i will be happy with them once its all together! Thanks Kent

@Zed HeadSorry yes.. that was a total typo.. meant the Z store (Motor Sport Auto) 🙂 I had noticed that the photo on their website didn't match and that mine didn't match the earlier pics on this thread.. i presumed that it was most likely a revision in design.. but you could be right.. maybe they are just plain wrong parts (none of the pictures of the Koni's listed at MSA seem regardless of model/year appear to show this little spacer) I will most definitely check with MSA to see if these are correct before i start hacking at them. Just for reference.. here are the stickers on the box @Patcon thanks for the tip.. that sounds like it will be an easier job than hacking at them.. is there any danger with heat build up in the tubes when using a flap disc? i havn't done anything like this on shocks before and dont want them blowing up in my face 🙂

Hi Guys, I bought a set of the Koni Sports from Z Store, and finally up to the point of installing them but it hasn't gone that smoothly. For the fronts I bought the 23-1031 (8641 1031SP1 on the Koni Box with a manufacture(?) date of 31/08/21) and i am not 100% sure what my front struts are out of (as i bought a second hand set, original length with GC coilovers and Tokico BZ3038's) but i am sure they are 240Z/early 260z. The rears went in all ok (well.. after dealing with a dent in the rim of one of my rear struts right on the thread courtesy of my powder coater). The fronts i am having difficulty and it seems to echo the issues earlier in this thread. One front strut i can barely get a 1/4 turn on the gland nut before it bottoms out, at which point the underside of the gland nut to the strut measurement is 8.7mm, on the other side i can get it maybe a full turn, with the measurement being 8.2mm (kind of similar to previous posts). My Koni shocks have a small welded in spacer at the bottom which is about 4-5mm deep.. presumably to overcome issues with any welding beads inside the tube.. this seems to be very close to the additional clearance i need to get the gland nuts on properly. I have not seen mention of this little spacer in previous posts so i am not sure if its an early revision or something (i hope they are the right shocks!). Comparing the outgoing tokico's to these, the bottom spacer appears to be the cause I am a little sceptical that the revised gland nut with the tapered inside edge will do much in this instance as in previous posts it seems to only give 2mm, and wondering if i can just lop 4mm off the bottom of this spacer thingy? i should still have what looks like a build up of weld just under the tube and above the spacer as a bit of a safety from breaching the tube.. can anyone forsee any issues with this (unsure how i go about cutting it.. hack saw i assume) I am yet to contact MSA (purely because its still weekend over in the US - i am in Australia), but will do as well.. Just hoping someone else has come across the issue and a fix is simpler than waiting for more parts to arrive from the US. Thanks Kent

Hi Guys, Does anyone have any experience with the early RHD 240Z internal fuse box with the long pig tails? I recently pulled my dashboard out to get reskinned, and while i was at it i replaced my old internal x with the long pigtail MSA fuse box (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5011). I did label connectors as i took them all off, but i am a little confused with the 2 large White (BATT) connectors on the Fusebox. I didn't get a decent photo when i unplugged everything, but i am pretty sure that the old fuse box was hooked up with a single spade connector going into the loom (though this appears non-original/hacked up by PO, and i am not sure what colour the cable is.. i forgot to check) and the other large spade seems like it was only connected to a power cable for a CD stacker (with a dodgy small spade.. quality).. I also have the smaller White (i think..) cable connected to the fuse box with the standard bullet connection. Definitely doesn't match any of the electrical charts i can find online which show there should be 2 large White/Red cables going to these connections on the fuse box.. one to the Ammeter and the other to the Alternator I have connected the single spade up to the fuse box, and it did allow me to start the car (and the AMP meter works). I have also had a look for where the other white/red cable could be, but can only find it up higher in the loom with a simple Male/Female connector (which looks factory, and old.. so it seems standard). Can anyone help me out? i need to confirm if the second White/Red needs to be connected on these really early (low Vin 70's) cars, and if so where does/should it go? everything i can find wiring diagram wise looks like it should be connected.. there just doesn't seem to be anywhere for it to go. Here is the original fuse installed Connections after removing fuse box and heater panel (the CD changer connection that i am 90% sure was connected to the other spade is that yellow cable on the left) MSA fuse connectors (i had to cut off the large white connectors to put on large female spade connectors to suit) and finally, the back of the dash showing the standard loom and connectors, and the White/Red male/female connector higher up in the dash Appreciate any help you guys can give.. i don't want to put it all back together to find that there is a loose high amp wire floating around somewhere in the dash to cause a fire or something Thanks Kent

@7tooZ did you have any clearence issues with the front torsion rods?

I did patcon, it was unclear if the early cars where somehow different, my car is also RHD.. so more potential issues.. I give Sean the benefit of the doubt as there is no way he would be able to test every year and chassis. It would be simple to modify the footwell, but I want to keep the floorpan original (for now.. will probably strengthen frame rails later). 7tooZ, to be honest I didn't expect much of a performance gain from the std 2.4 I have (with Weber's).. I had a rusting performance exhaust already, but the sound wasn't great.. I am sure it will be great once it's fitted (the sound from the videos I have seen look awesome)

Argh.. not what I wanted to hear ? but thanks 7tooZ, i was trying to avoid having to get the header cut up or bent out of shape, but it looks like it is inevitable

Hi Guys, I have a HS30 (RHD) early Numbered 70's 240Z. I bought an awesome Z-story exhaust system including sports extractors. Unfortunately when i went to fit the extractors they hit up against the left hand side floor well, and also the end threads of the tension control rods. Z story have stated that they should fit, and i believe them. As far as i know the car is pretty original, but i do know that the car was once "restored" (badly).. before i go trying to get the exhaust modified to clear.. i was just wondering if there is anyway that my engine mounts are incorrect, or if there is any difference between the year models? I only ask because the top of the engine is also very very close to hitting my Cusco strut brace (to the point where the ignition leads can not fit between the rocker cover and the brace). i would prefer to replace the mounts than modify the exhaust.. there is certainly no way i am going to bash the crap out of the floorwell :)any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated

are you able to ship to Australia?

Sorry, my misunderstanding Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

directed at me? i don't believe i mentioned a "Weber" curve.. but manifolds for weber's that i have seen do not support vacuum advance (although the BT Dizzy will).. which is partly why i sort out advice when i programmed mine.

The Bluetooth version do not come with a base map like their set and forget versions, however i was lucky that i was given a lot of usefull advice both on hybridz, and viczcar (the Australian Z forum). I was a little silly and decided to change my Carb's to 40DCOE webers (without any weber experience), electrical fuel pump, spark leads and dizzy all in one go.. ideally i should have done one by one.. but The dizzy map i posted on the following link got the car running to the point where i could get it on a trailer and to a weber tuner. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16394-advice-on-l24-ignition-curve/ After tuning, the car has driven well, although i am waiting on a zstory exhaust to be properly fitted, and a new set of intake manifolds/linkages before i get the car more precisely tuned (on a dyno).. I think some hand holding may be needed to help an old school weber tuner understand a bluetooth dizzy if your in that scenario. For me, the dizzy looks stock standard, runs really well, it also allows me to use a new component rather than relying on getting an old L28 electric dizzy recurved etc. To be fair, i have had a lot of "connection" issues from my mobile and the android app. I didn't when i originally set it up (although it did have map saving issues in that version of the app), but more recently when i have wanted to "monitor" the car, its been a real pain to get it reading.. unfortunately my car doesn't live with me fulltime.. so i only get rare opportunities to mess with it.. it could just be my phone.. but i need to contact them and follow it through.. it doesn't affect the running of the car on the current curve in anyway however. There is a surprising small amount of info out there on the tune123, however the stuff that was there gave me some worries on the dizzy fitment and the supplied adaptors. In the end however, i had NO such issues.. it fitted perfectly on my early L24. I used their recommended beru red coil as it requires a different resistance spec to the standard coils.

I have one, and it's great! I have to admit it is tricky to get try he phone to connect to it, but once your maps setup, it is solid and you don't tend to use your phone much after, though you can use it to monitor.. any questions then ask away! I had a thread on hybridz with the base l24 (exhaust and 40dcoe) that worked for me Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Any plans for an RHD option? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hi Alan, Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i am currently looking at getting some MK63's for my early 240Z, Can i ask you if the Peugeot 306 GTi solution will fit the early 240Z or late 240Z/260Z front struts? Kent

Hi Guys, i have been searching for a couple of days on the mentioned 13/16" rear drum cylinders.. i could only come up with the Datsun 1200 (B110) having that size.. maybe my search skills have just gone to crap. I am looking at a S12+8 or MK63 (if i can push it) upgrade, and i want to keep the car balanced and close to original (early 240z). Anyone got any further information on this drum upgrade? and if these are off another model car, how easy are they to find and adapt? Thanks Guys

Brilliant, thanks for posting Jason! I am still trying to decide between the Fujitsubo or spirit garage twin system (real shame Sean doesn't do a twin with his sport/race).. though I am not sure I can justify the extra $1k over the Fujitsubo (especially on what is going to remain a pretty stock l24) Now knowing the release date, I can put it on the backburner for a couple of months

the only place i have seen it mentioned was http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=188362&postcount=24 and the related picture at the end of http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=192007&postcount=27 looks like some real bending to make it fit.. I would have thought it would have come up more in peoples reviews if it was an issue (unless most just bend it without a second thought). Yours seem to have no such issues (and I assume your race/sport ones also have no issues? would you also say that the fujitsubo headers are similar to your street/sport ones?).. unsure if they have changed this in the newer version (if the headers have changed) Kent

Sean, What is the functional difference between your race-sport and street-sport headers? would the race-sport headers be too much for a relatively stock L24 with 40DCOE's (eventually i will likely get the head ported and probably a cam but not for some time). I like the idea and look of the equal length headers such as your race-sport model Kent

So, does the newer (2017) versions of the fujitsubo headers and exhaust system have a different part numbers? i checked the fujitsubo 2017 online catalog and it only lists the same part number as the older system (or at least what their website shows as the older system based on the diagrams) I read mention of the headers interfering with the block breather pipe, has anyone had an issue with this? how did they get around it.. bending the breather pipe seems like a solution but how easy is it to remove the breather pipe to bend? how would you bend it without crushing the diameter? Kent

Hi Grannyknot Did you get any further with this? i am just installing triples with a very similar manifold, just bought the 123ignition module and am researching to head down the same road

you finally came around and ought a 240Z!!! NICEE!!!

yeah its pretty sweet.. it makes me reconsider going a non-original red (i was pretty set on the R35 GTR red).. The only datsun pic i have seen that was better was a grey 240Z, with black chromed trim.... soooooo nice..... shame i am not modding mine now