khughes

purely oportunistic i bought the N1 camshafts with a set of N1 rods, as i was planning to build up an N1 block before i found my RB.. so with the cam covers off.. i may as well throw the camshafts in! (and who wouldn't for $200 for a set of cams ) same goes for the cam gears, since the timing belt is off, may as well throw a set in (so it can be tuned properly later on.. will be running the std ECU until the car is "complete")

weve seen that one advirtised before (can't remember where though, ebay?) looks like a reasonable start.. though in my experience you should run when someone says it comes with all the bits to make it a complete car plus some spares

not really chasing anthing more than the standard output at this point ( though the thought of a set or GT-SS's have crossed my mind ). once the car is done and registered it will be another story

Hi Guys, been trying to update the website a little, but here are some updates to the project Things done so far: replaced Belts, idler and tensioner bearings, water pump Installed R33 RB26DETT N1 Camshafts removed Front Diff from sump, cut up to clear the 240K, and had the hole rewelded in Aluminimum Installed Trust sump baffle (had to trim to fit) Removed the intake plenum, Cam covers, front covers and top turbo pipe for Powdercoating general clean up (including cleaning up the individual throttle bodies) Bolt up RB25 5 Speed Gearbox waiting for an ATI balancer and HKS adjustable cam gears to turn up here are a few pics (and a hint as to the colour scheme of the engine, which i can hopefully reveal next weekend)

i will post some pictures of my "progress" up in the engine section

slow, still practicing.. i will probably start cutting up the parts car soon to practice welding on the right size metal etc.. I have spent the last couple of weekends pulling the RB26DETT apart, powedercoating the intake plenum, cam covers and front covers.. while it is apart i have put in a new water pump, belts and waiting for my set of HKS adjustable cams to turn up, along with an ATI balancer.. oh and just put a set of N1 cam's in there too also got the RB25DET gearbox fitted up today, so it is looking almost like a proper engine again did i mention i was trying my hardest to keep things standard to start with?

and some slightly older photos of the test fitting: http://www.project240k.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=28

latest update on the engine, should have some nice additions on the weekend http://www.project240k.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=31&Itemid=28

auction has ended, here are the pics

there is one on ebay australia right now: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NIssan-Steering-Idler-arm-240C-240K-Navara-Pathfinder_W0QQitemZ180265109782QQihZ008QQcategoryZ42609QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem if you he won't post to the US let me know, and i can help out

http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n67310520

just as a record, someone on SAU has confirmed via a magazine that the C110 and C210 share the same floor pan (well.. as confirmed as much as you can trust a magazine ) "Bought a motoring mag of EBAY, of course it had info about C210"s. It states that the C210 and 240k share the same floor pan.This was something I was wondering about a month ago due to recarpeting. just thouhgt I'd share this snippet of info." http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Floor-Pan-t227732.html

Just as a small update.. i went out and bought a 180amp Lincoln gas MIG welder on the weekend.. and a big bottle of gas.. had a little play with it and it certainly seems a lot easier to weld with than the crappy "100"amp SIP gasless welder we were using before. we can do decent enough runs on 1.2mm thick steel.. but having a little trouble using thinner metals (0.6mm) without burning through.. lots more practice required i think before we start welding patches on the cars (atleast this way we can fix up the GT too). I really need to find a good howto book on preparing the car for paint, i know the ruff procedure, but it is the small details that make the job perfect that i am lacking (and of course they come with experience) anybody got any good suggestions or weblinks? on a similar note, i sent my engine covers and plenum off to get powdercoated.. can't wait to get them back and back on the engine, i think they should really look good (i am not going to post anymore details until i get some completed pics together )

yeah.. i could probably offset the cost of the bonnet and fenders with the work i will need to do to get mine straight.... but i don't think i could justify the cost of shipping or the middle mans fees etc.. i would still really love a CF bonnet though! anybody know anyone moving from Japan to sydney? Having said that though.. it looks like slidewize charge (container costs, not including fees or taxes etc.) $120 each for a bonnet, bootlid or a set of guards and $100 for a door not sure if they would ship only if you got someone in japan to send the parts to their agent in japan (i am sure there would be fees involved)

i guess if you were keen, someone like slidewize could buy them from the restored (for AU$714ish) and throw them in a container.. i am sure it would be a lot cheaper than $2100 for a set!!!

i would certainly go for a bonnet, maybe even a boot and fenders! though i know it is unlikely to happen ever

Hey Jim, good to see you online again

bump.. Bonzelite, how are things progressing ?! got anywhere with the car? would love to see any photos of her progress!

you might want to see if bonzelite is keeping the set he has on his car? atleast he is in the states. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28124 i had 6 of them, 4 is on his, and 2 are holding my rear up at the moment

the front ones? i have a couple of those.. shame your in the US

Hi Will, i followed the majority of your steps with the only difference being i didn't scrub the marine clean into the bodywork.. Very good point about the clear, i really wish i had gone with that.. but the distributors here convinced me that grey was the go, and clear was mainly for use as a fibreglass resin. The next car i do, i will follow your instructions to the T. got a lame responce from the POR distributer for australia saying i either didn't dry the surface properly (i didn't POR on the same day as cleaning), or that the por wasn't applied thick enough (i used a paint brush..). I thought POR was meant to magically absorb moisture from the metalwork?! there was definately no loose rust, you can see n the last photo that there are ares of converted rust right next to the bad rust..i could understand if there were patches by themselves..

yeah, i think i have come to the conclusion that if it is going to be done.. then i am going to have to do it myself.. time to start looking fro a decent gas MIG. I have emailed por, waiting on their reply, but i think if i go over the car and find all the dodgy bits, scrape them off then metal ready etc.. again then it will hopefully be ok (from what i have seen though it certainly doesn't support their claim it sticks better to rust than a metal ready treated surface.. see the pic attached. I am pretty sure with a bit of practice i should be able to repair the holes, and with a lot of bog and filler.. make it straight enough to cut down most of the labour.. i presume that the bodywork place would prefer me not spraying colour though so they can finish off the straightening etc.. i will certainly give the inside and the engine bay a go though..

yeah, i have a blasting kit, but i found it pretty useless.. just blew sand everywhere and didn't do much The whole car was basically stripped to bare metal chemicaly, and then i used the POR marine clean (which removes oil and crap), then their Metal ready (which is their rust convertor), then painted the car (with a brush.. as per instructions:)) with 4L of POR-15 the por is meant to remove all the moisture in the metal, and effectively seal all the converted rust.. it seems to have worked in some parts.. but not others... yeah.. $15k is 1/10 of an R35 GTR (approx).... i think not

didn't have a very good day today it all started with a quote from a guy i know to fix up the rust, straighten the body and paint the car.. the price was not pretty.. $15k!, and whilst i am sure there is a lot of work, and i am 100% certain it would be a perfect job, there is no chance i can afford that for paint! So my mate started trying to convince me that we should attempt bogging, sanding, priming etc.. on a small area and see how we go.. so i started sanding the POR to start work, and sections of POR started flaking off! It seems that the POR metal ready rust conversion hasn't worked completely.. it seems that 90% of the car may be ok, but there are some areas (the POR looks bubbled, and will chip right off), that the rust seems to still be active beneath the por. It is strange though, because there are areas right next to the effected areas, where the green remains of the metal ready still exist.. and the POR there seems to be working well. just when i thought i was getting somewhere!

paul newman R30's are pretty rare.. i have a friend who has one here in australia and he is a guru on them.. i will see if he knows