khughes

Don't make me go and get the horses head out of the freezer...

Hi Guys, I am going a slightly different direction with my interior, which means selling a few bits i had stockpiled to use. set of brand new still in box Autometer carbon fibre gauges: 3-3/8" Carbon Fibre Series Metric Speedo 4787-M 3-3/8" Carbon Fibre series Tachometer 4798 2-1/16" Carbon Fibre Series Fuel Guage (73-10ohm) 4715 - Spec'd to match the C110 fuel sender 2-1/16" Carbon Fibre series Air/Fuel ratio 4775 MSD tachometer adaptor 8918 - To enable the Tacho to be used with an RB engine set of brand New Speco performance series gauges in black: 2-5/8" electric water temp metric 535-30 2-5/8" electric oil temp metric 535-15 2-5/8" electic oil pressure PSI 535-20 - this one is used but comes with the sender etc. All guages are new (except the used one), the clear plastic windows on the packaging are just a bit dusty The autometer gauges will fit inside the C110 cluster shrouds, the speco's though will not fit in the centre gauges without some modification to the shrouds (or removing the cups/shrouds altogether and just flush mount them). if your interested, PM me for price, I am located in Sydney.

Just an update, i neglected to check the usual suspects as i was under the impression that nolathene were the only ones to do them... Turns out superpro, whiteline and nolathane do them.. and the pictures from Nolathanes website show a completely different part... unfortunately for me, i bought these almost 3 years ago, so i didn't like my chances of getting it resolved. Bought a set of whiteline replacements..

Hi Guys, I think i have been done over once more by replacement suspension bushes i have been trying to get my car ready to come off the rotisserie to get it to a shop, its the first time the suspension has gone on since sand blasting.. I had bought a set of replacement nolathane rear crossmember bushes (part number 49060), which in them selves cost a bomb.. and had the factory bushes pressed out of the crossmember by a mechanic, of course i trusted that the new ones would be ok.. The bushes fit, however the rubber extend probably about 1cm above and below the crossmember, in comparison, the factory bushes (from what i have documented) are actually sucken below the crossmember metal.. which the factory washers take into account So much for a "kit", i can't use the factory washers, and i am left with maybe 4mm of thread left at the end of the bolt to put a nut on (about a 1/3 of the factory nut).. I honestly dont' know how to make this work.. anyone got any ideas? or know of anyone in Australia or Japan, who makes proper replacement bushes? or should i start wishing for a new crossmember?!

that was my equivalent of apologising upfront for acting like i don't know you guys on there

i Sure have it is a bit strange having a whole community of people with real names rather than screen names.. it is going to take a while to work out who is who

i must have missed the link.. *edit* duh.. facebook search

Congrats on the find! that alone is a massive feat! your road trip and pick up reminded me of my first 240k purchase back in 2004! I know exactly how your feeling! Hopefully we get to hear the rest of the story as time progresses! i am using those same museum photos as my "goal".. i can't get past the idea of a 240k in red!

i guess in many ways that is a good thing, it's nice to see the market reflect the passion we all have for this car! I would say that i hope it doesn't effect the prices on parts, but really parts have been quite scarce for a while now! i just hope when it comes time to put mine all back together i am not missing a box of pieces

$3800 is the market really that crazy now?

really good work! it must be awesome seeing it getting so close! out of interest, what is the circular hole in the left hand side of the boot floor for? mine doesn't have that

awesome work! Does that make it impossible to match color wise (if the process can't be redone)?

from memory I bought a 16" SPAL fan with temperature controller to use on my PWR radiator, I figured the more I could take off the belt the better.. It had originally come off an R33 GTST.. the guy had made up a stainless shroud to fit the existing plastic guard.

really? i still feel like i haven't achieved much! maybe its because it isn't in rolling around yet..

about $95 a quart (935ml?) + $25 delivery a little more than POR.. but much less when you factor in the cost of POR's metal prep and metal ready stuff too

spent the Mothers Day weekend doing the RustBullet and Epoxy top coat.. finally got the pics up onto my website Interior painting - Project 240K came out quite well i think

If your up for it, cut off a top slice of the colour card and post it down to me, and i can compare it directly to the grill then.. pm me if your keen Kent

Sitting here waiting for rust bullet to dry on the inside of my car.. so no better time to take some pics of my originals.. very much different colours

that is awesome! impressed with the inner wheel well addition, the guard tab way isn't great at all! very jealous! btw. i may have missed it, but who is the bodyshop doing all the work?

it certainly is going strong! i almost sold it to the sandblaster in part exchange, but glad that i didn't! I am in two minds to keep it after i am done incase (when) i decide to strip down the 240Z.. am i that foolish

Yep, pulled all the sealer there too, mine was actually very good in those areas, i would hate to see where the water got in to soak that seal up, what is the inside of that panel like? that yellow glue stuff is a total PITA to scrape (chip) off! Uras, that decision keeps me up at night!, The bottom of my car was really good and had been sandblasted and coated in some form of flash rust preventer. I lightly sanded that, then sprayed 2 coats of dupont 840R epoxy, then i have coated it in 2-3 coats of white 3M stone guard.. I chose this as it is paintable (and white), so plan to do 2-pac colour (dupont probably) and clear over that (will just take a little while).. that is just the underside.. topside, i am leaving to the pro's (with the rest of the body work) i am willing to give Rust bullet a chance on the inside where it is unlikely to really matter.

Hi Guys, As some of you know, i have had my car sandblasted a while ago.. The sandblasting removed 99.9% of paint, however left all of the interior body sealant intact. I have to say the overall condition of the car is pretty good bar what i would call the usual rust problems, however I spent most of yesterday scraping the factory sealant out of the panel joins in the cabin, i am glad i did, The biggest issue was in the front corner of front footwells where the sill meets the firewall and A piller kick panel area.. Once i pulled the sealant out, it showed that there is a direct gap right into the wheel well.. i can't remember there being sealant on the outside so i assume water has been getting in the gap (maybe 1mil) and then soaking along the inside of the sealant/metal join Some other areas of note: There was some rust forming around the air inlets into the cabin from the front windscreen valance, i have seen it much worse here on my other cars though Rust hole around the size of a 20c piece on the drivers firewall, looks like the end of the frame rail in the engine bay. I also found a bit of rust in the cabin along the bottom of the rear wheel well (especially at the corner of the rear quarter\rear window section)) - i can't find an external reason why it was rusting under the sealant here, but it was on the left side only.. so i presume it may have had a leak in the rear window, and dripping down the parcel tray, then down to the floor ending up here. Previous cars have been also bad across the middle of the firewall where the heater box sits (i assume from a leak in the heater box), but this car is pretty good. I havn't started stripping the boot's sealant yet.. kind of dreading what i may find there! I have epoxied the bottom of the car twice now, then sprayed some 3M waterbased Stone Guard. I realized yesterday that i missed the step of seam sealing.. i am going to cover the inside with Rust bullet (along any frame rails\inside sections i can), seam seal the inside, then cover in epoxy and opt. a coat of stone guard.. externally i will probably seam seal every spot i can find, followed by 2 coats of epoxy along the seams and then the stone guard.. not ideal, but hopefully enough to stop water accessing it on both sides! I am avoiding any areas i know need bodywork until i can get that sorted out (i am trying to get the insides done, and enough of the understide done to get the drivetrain back on and it off the Frame Rail wise, i am planning to spray rust bullet in, then probably a coat of stone guard and then once the car is fully painted some Dynax S50 wax as the last line of defense. I am not 100% sure what areas i should be leaving unsealed, i hope some common sense prevails I will grab some photos of the rust spots i am talking about next weekend and post them up. but these areas are worth some thought. PS. i refuse to use POR15 on the car now, after a previous major failure on easily accessible panels (prepared correctly), no chance i would risk using it in areas i can't get to! i sure hope rust bullet is better!

How did it come out?

I am trying to get mine off the rotisserie, i know once i get it back on its own legs, it will give me a massive boost! after close to a year, i put down the 2nd layer of epoxy and a layer of underbody deadener on the undercarriage two weekends ago.. would have done more, but ran out of underbody spray.. another 6L are on the way (i used 3L for the first coat) Thanks, i will let you know (hopefully very soon) when his itinerary is squared up and we know where he will be (probably Houston), appreciate it and i will definately take those photos.. all ready have the GT-R grill accessable to do it! As for the Z Parts, no problems at all.. i will keep my eyes out, but say the word (and the year model) and i will start buying them up for you.. a decent dash is probably going to be hard to find (but we can get it recovered either here or over there..)!!

Hi Brian! some good progress, good to see her getting the attention she deserves! from memory There is a black "u" style rubber mould (similar to the one on the back) that fits over the end of the headliner and metal bracket under that.. I don't think i have a spare, but i will look (it will take some time though as it would be in storage), if not, i am sure we can find one somewhere in OZ and i can post it to you. I am pretty sure dad is heading to the states (Dallas i think) in May, i might try to organise to finally get that Z grill off you! once he confirms his trip, i will let you know Kent