khughes

i have it on the aust parts catalogue as being: 40310-R5001 Set - Tyre & Tube 165HR14(GT Hardtop) 40310-E8840 Set - Tyre & Tube 175HR14 (GT Hardtop) that is one of many part numbers for different 165x14 and 175x14.. but nothing bigger seems to be listed.. they seem to be on 14x4.5J rims... according to the japanese parts manual the KPG has 14x5J rims.. but i didn't see any tyres specified i also just saw a picture of a jap spec C110 in the jap parts manual with a rear window wiper on the GTX-EB.. cool I am planning to run 16x8 and 16x8.5" rims (no idea what size tyres), but i will be fully engineering the car (hopefully this will solve my problem with tyre sizes!)

yes please let me know what you want for postage etc.

Hi Mate, you may have better luck posting on the Z side of the forum.. most of us are Aussie's on this side, and L24's are quite cheap here, certainly cheaper than the cost of shipping

thank you so much! that makes a lot of sense. i just have to find the time to sort through the rather large box full of wiring now

yep, i have the 2 stalks, exactly as you mentioned. I am glad you brought this up, as i was planning to run semi-sealed beam's and was planning to upgrade the headlight wiring to something beefier anyways (but i hadn't started my research on it yet). i would love a copy of your diagram (maybe post here for future ref?) this is such a help!

The rear is good (though the tips of the spoiler that go past the boot lid needs to be filled in. as for the front, i am not 100% sure yet, it certainly needs some modification, i just havn't had any more time to look into it as i move house next weekend.. grill is still being worked on

i would be surprised if there weren't still over 100 little old ladies driving to and from bowls in the sedans!

Thanks, that is some great advice (as usual!), i was already a little cautious about the kits as it seems that they have no brake warning lights etc., i hadn't noticed that they missed out on the hazards too... i don't quite understand how the supposed best of the universal wiring looms, can miss out on important features like that (i presume the american's need hazards and failure lights too..) I will pick up an R33 GTST body loom tomorrow (much cheaper at $100), and strip it down to what i need.. hopefully it will make pairing the engine loom to it very easy. When you say mild hydrocloric acid, what sort of concentration are you talking? should i use some type of degreaser beforehand to remove any grease / dirt buildup as well? can you fill me in on what the datsun configuration is for the headlights? i will probably need to modify this with the R33 loom as well i would imagine. i am really going to have to learn how to decipher wiring diagrams very quickly Kent

not at all.. i am ultra cautious about stuff like that... put it this way... my "friend" who was supposidly experienced in engine conversions, made a gearbox cross member which was mounted to my car by bolting 4 bolt through the floorpan (with 2 metal plates to stop it ripping through)... his previous attempt (which i also found unacceptable), was to have the gearbox xmember sitting 15cm off the ground.... neither of these are acceptable to me, let alone if an engineer actually tried to inspect the car.. and when i complained about it (having paid him $2k for engine mounts, gearbox and diff mount), he started carrying on that i was too picky and fussy.. that really annoys me seeing as i am no expert, but it was obvious that things were not right... it cost me another $2000 to get them all (except the engine mounts) redone properly by somebody else.. i guess my lesson is don't get a friend to do things for you on the cheap.. it costs you in the long run (and it saves the conflict of having to argue with a "friend" about their pride and quality of work).. be as anal as you can.. your friends or the engineer doesn't have to live with the effects of a bad job..

i didn't realise anyone in australia sold painless.. damn they are $$$ compared to the states though! might do a quick search for another verndor here in oz

if they are strenthening existing areas, why would it affect alignment? i assume they are not playing with the suspension too?

i would imagine that it would be pretty close to being right behind the speedo, i can't imagine a spinning cable in a jacket would like to be bent too much presuming the speedo isn't electric in the C210 (but doubt it)

probably a good thing for me to note that i am planning on replacing all instrument guages with autometer ones anyway so most of my dash wiring requires work (i wonder if i can fit LED's while i am there ).

Hi Guys, i have been thinking of completely stripping out the main body wiring harness in the 240k, and replacing it with a US universal kit such as this one (either 12 or 18 circuit): http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/cat-universalharn.php I am pretty proficiant with soldering etc, and i was going to just run my own wiring, but as it seems hard (and very $$$) to find a decent fuse box here in Aus (and i really can't be bothered trying to get an used fusebox rewired), i figured i should just pay the ~$500 and buy a kit and install it myself (certainly cheaper than hacking the main loom, screwing it up and ahving to pay a pro to fix it). The only problems that i see could possibly be would be it being for LHD (which should simply be a case of re-routing), finding the right wires, and wiring in a dash dimmer (ADR?). anyone see any other issues with doing this? it looks like it will also sort out issues with the regulator wiring etc. too.. plus the engine harness from teh RB25DET is used, so no engine functions are used anyways. the kits seem to be very well recommended by the Z guys on hybridz.org

your best bet is to find the list of approved engineers off the rta website (it is a pdf in the ADR section i think) and ring every one of them.. let me know your experience with however you choose.. i will need to get off my arse and start talking to an engineer soon

i have only ever been lucky to see 2 C110's on the road.. one was a coupe in fair condition.. and the other was a 4 door some time ago.. but i have a sneaky suspicion that it was Jim on his way to work.

either through Z kid or Kiwi, i will take a set

i am still cautious on how the thing will handle.. i am trying to put as much good stuff in there as i can.. but i guess until i can actually feel it in the corners.. i will be worried.. there is always a chance it will be an understeering pig (until i unleash the left foot that is!)

Front brakes: existing brake mounts removed and new mounts welded on discs machined to fit hub and redrilled for 4x113.4PCD used existing stagea braided lines that i had, but these really need shortened thankfully clearence was not an issue due to the 16" wheels suspension found the front shocks to be dead, replaced with Koni damper adjustables, needed a 60mm tube insert to lift the shock in the housing C110 adjustable strut tops from japan did not fit the top spring seat, an adaptor had to be made up to take the load of the springs and to get it to fit existing springs were too short, so i got new springs.. if i need to go higher, then i will need to add tender springs(?) to extend them Front Booster Clearence issues mainly.. booster was fouling on steering shaft, whole assembly had to be relocated higher meaning the existing mountings had to be cut off and rewelded slightly higher.. it also meant that the pedal box had to be modified and redrilled to suit Rear Brakes Stewart Wilins used a hybrid Commodore/falcon kit commonly used for 1600's.. it uses a VT commodore caliper on a falcon disc brake, which has an integrated banksia brake (sort of like a drum brake on the inside of the disc.. very interesting!) as the kit was primarily for the 1600.. modifications had to be made for the 240k.. and the handbrake cable still fouls on the trailing arm.. i need to see how much i can extend the hole by CV Shafts I had done a bit of ground work on this, getting Z31 4 bolt shafts and 280Z 31 spline stub axles from Z-spares in melbourne.. unfortunately it turns out that Z-spares sent me 2 of the same sided shafts (one is meant to be shorter), and a 280z stub axle and a 200b stub axle... far from professional.. the Z31/280Z adaptors were made by NZeder on these forums, and i ordered a complete set of Z31 cv boot kits from nissan. The 280Z stub axles had to be turned down to fit the 240K (i have the measurements at work). the rubber cv boot can foul on the shock absorber when it is fully compressed, hopefully i can find a thinner adjustable shock sometime in the future. The guy that did my engine, gearbox and diff mount originally did a pretty poor job, everything but the engine mounts needed to be re-engineered. Roll cage I got a 1/2 cage installed, mainly for road legal reasons (but i can add the front 1/2 later if needed), it just clears the rear window winders, and just clears the roof lining. now i just need to get some foam covers for it. that is most of it i think.. well as much as i can remember for now! i havn't had a good look at it all as yet, but i need to pull the engine out soon to fix the water pump and replace the belts.. so i will get better photos later on Kent

Well guys, the car has been up at Stewart Wilkins for the past 3 weeks getting a whole lot of bits added to it.. this is certainly a significant step for the car! New and improved!: R34 GTT Front calipers and Discs New front adj. shock inserts + springs adjustable strut tops installed (the ones i got from Miles) DR30 10" booster with 1" Master Cylinder Commodore rear brakes with falcon disks and banksia handbrake halfshafts converted to Z31 CV shafts with 280Z stub axles R200 diff mount redone RB25DET Gearbox mount redone Custom Driveshaft (some hybrid thing they made up for me) 1/2 rollcage with harness mounts there were a LOT of dramas unfortunately, nothing fitted as easily as i had hoped, and it completely blew my budget (over 30% more than i expected, which was a lot anyway!) with 56 hours of work completed.. but i am hugely impressed with their work! I have a few more little dramas to work out such as: :surprised driveshaft bolts just a little too short (need to replace them with landcruiser 100 driveshaft bolts) :surprised handbrake cable may bind on the trailing arm (need to enlarge that hole) :surprised front brake lines are too long (i got those braided lines from a nissan stagea) :surprised CV boot may rub on shock body when shock is fully compressed :surprised i have a whiney R200 sounds like a bearing.. have to serously consider a KAAZ LSD :surprised still got to get some foam for the rollcage :surprised really need to re-run the brake lines once the engine is out again anyway, i will fill you all in on the particulars.. but first the photo's! http://www.project240k.com/images/thumbnails.php?album=12 enjoy! I am well and completely broke for the next few months (plus i am moving), so other than little things not much will be done for a while.. i may buy one of those universal wiring looms from the states to replace the harness in the car, but then i have to start seriously saving for it to be painted.. that is another cost i am not looking forward to (i would imagine around $5000 with the bodywork that needs to be done too)

i don't think you can use the newer master cylinders as they are setup for ABS.. not sure how this affects the booster, but i think the newer boosters have a different m/c mounting config, so i am not sure you would get them to fit.. i would be cautious trying to mix the newer stuff in.. but maybe lookup the front track widths of the R33 vs R31 vs C110? i didn't have a gtst so i can't help much i am afraid.. never spent any time under a gtst

yeah that C-Red one certainly isn't worth $30k! or if it is Jims is worth over $100k i am upgrading my booster to a 10" with a 1" Master Cylinder out of a DR30 skyline... i do have brand new (apparently reco'd, but there are no bore marks and it looks new!, i only assume it is reco'd as the box says so, but it could be just a different box) 15/16" M/C if anyone is interested.. apparently they are rare and hard to get (SWR was very surprised i got one!).. not cheap though It would certainly make pedal feel better.. although it has the outlets on the left instead of the right, so the brake lines may need to be carefully bent around to the other side to make it fit (no biggy though).

yeah, i would love a C10 too.. but chances of finding one in australia is pretty slim.. i guess it is similar to the probs the yanks have.. if you want one you have to find one and import it.. i would n't like to think how much that would cost for a std hardtop..

i know exactly how you feel just watch your pockets.. money has a tendency to dissapear easily when you get carried away! yeah the 900 convertible's roof folds onto the back shelf. i have bought a few rubber kits from rarespares.net none, have been fitted yet, but they look pretty good, and a complete list of rubbers (though since you don't have top door seals, you may be better off buying them individually from rarespares.net..

maybe an old 900 convertible? i think they are the oldest saab's i can remember in convertible.. i certainly can't think of any other 4 seater convertibles that would be available in a scrap yard (probably best to try and get a cheap 900 out of the paper just for the roof?