khughes

yeah.. C110 has the eye holes attach to the car, and the end bolt goes through the lower arm (so upside down compared to the front)

yeah... the C110 is in no way my daily driver.. that is for sure... it is a dedicated weekend / track car.. and as you say, i doubt i will do any serious racing in it.. it will be worth to much to me! i just need something fun to replace the GT-R i sold a year ago

another question for you.. could you get a set of damper adjustable shocks in the rear? given they are upside down obviously height adjustment is a little tricky unless you have a hacksaw

yeah.. i could imagine it would be a little complex to build.. especially given the size of the cabin ( i have a saab convertible, and it amazes me how something that big folds up with all the ribs etc.)

The Koni's were suggested as they have had a lot of good experience.. and later on down the track (as soon as it is finished!).. the car will definately be a track car (no competition at this stage).. hence why i would prefer to get everything adjustable now, so that i can play to get the right settings / have them set up properly, but swap to a street setup fairly easily.. yes not the cheapest option, but i am scared it will handle like a lump of ... well what do you think are my best options for the strut tops? modify or sell my C110 set and get a universal set (around $450-$600). I have been looking at getting adj. castor rods out of japan too.. but this will have to wait.. along with the rear adjustment mods. as for the brakes, again, i am going off the advise or SWR, 10" booster and 1" M/C (i picked them up for the cost of a rebuild from a friend). If the booster can't fit, then my fall back would be the std with the 1" M/C.. given that i am using much bigger front and rear disk brakes than the DR30.. i would imagine that the 10" booster would be a logical option?

got any good pics of the roof up? would be interesting to see how you got that to work.. it sure looks good with the roof down.. the C110 shape lends well to a vert!

My bits should be shipped sometime this week. I was charged the following (though prices will vary according to costs of material at the time, so don't be surprised if it fluctuates..trust me.. this is a LOT cheaper than getting them from japan, and given Phils comments, probably of better quality). Flares : $270 front spoiler : $141 rear bobtail : $132 plus packaging and shipping.. Phil is still holding off main production until i can confirm the front spoiler actually fits properly. as for the grill.. The mesh has been sourced both in galvinized steel and stainless.. i recommended galvanized to make it easier for us to paint later. Hopefully there should be some big news in 2 weeks time.

i do know that there is a company in japan called genesis.. they specialise in R30's... maybe the nickname is on there? R31's there is a company called R31house or something... may be a lead if anyone has the skill to go through it

IS this where i can ask about how i can get my V36 Skyline to shoot flames out it's arse?? seriously.. i think we should try and keep the cut off at C210.. R30 and above are catered for on SAU, SDU, R31Skylines etc.. (i know classics are too on SAU, but that is mostly C210, R30,R31... R30+ are WELL catered for).. My vote would be for "Prince / Datsun Skylines" don't mention 240 anything i would love for more prince owners to get on here

From what i believe, the struts are height adjustable C210 struts (they certainly have the bigger caliper mounts), so they are not standard... which may explain why they don't fit the strut tops (i am the first to admit i have no idea about suspension, only a basic understanding of where everything is). From What Stewart (owner or Stewart Wilkins Motorsports, they certainly seem experienced and genuine) told me, for them to fit, they would need to create some sort of sleeve with a larger and stronger lip.. it sounded a little complicated (and $$$) and given they also found my springs were stuffed, and a shock dead, i am not sure if it was worth getting modified now. i am assuming that parts 54325,54059 and more importantly 54036 in the following diagram doesn't fit. I checked the part numbers or C210 vs C110 and you are right, the top spring seat is the same part number (54040-21000) 1st diagram is C110, 2nd is C210 As i was never comfortable removing the front struts from my car, i never managed to get a good photo of them, but i do have these... http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=293 http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=302 strut tops are similar to these (but not exact): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11786&d=1144234711 as for the shocks and springs, they quoted me $1100 for a set of koni damper adjustable inserts, with a set of springs and lift spacers . apparently (again, i don't fully understand), they need to make up an insert to go in the assembly below the shock to raise it up, unless i want to run the car super low, in which case i can remove this insert (i guess otherwise the strut is too long for the shock?) It is hard, as the car is a good 1hrs drive away from home, so i can't just pop down to see what they are talking about. Apparently they hit another issue with the 10" booster out of a DR30 that i asked them to install.. Apparently my car has C210 or R30 power steering and possibly pedal box (from previous owner), and the piston that connects to the pedal box is fouling on some sort of material on the steering shaft (?) he said that it does clear, but they would prefer another 5mm margin for safety, they were stumped and leaving it for a while to think about it while doing the list of other things... this is not working out to be cheap at all

Hi Guys, i picked up a set of C110 adjustable strut tops out of japan (thanks Miles!), but i found out today, that they do not fit my C210 adjustable struts (apparently they need some major work to make an adaptor to get the top spring seat to fit). Does anyone know i adjustable C210 strut tops are available anywhere? or should i go down the path of the whiteline adjustable universal tops, or just get my C110 ones modified.. I don't know which way will be cheaper

Maybe should start thinking about renaming the 240k section to something a little more different to 240Z people don't seem to see that magic letter, then wonder why we ask them to post elsewhere? lachlan?? your thoughts? not that i want to stop Z ppl visiting this side, as they are a HUGE source of information for us too! it seems to be mostly new people making the mistake

i must say, as soon as i saw that laurel, i didn't like it.. the first thing i thought of was a charger clone.. It certainly wouldn't hold a candle near your C10 brian!

it's a shame they couldn't write "JDM" a few more times.. i wasn't quite sure whether it was actually JDM or not

but isn't that part of the reason we love them? what is the fun of being able to pick up a part easily from a near by wreckers.. when instead, you can draw on a small pool of resources worldwide!

try the z forums

it will certainly be an interesting car when it is finished! good on you for being original! i never liked suicide doors, but i would imagine they would be easier to install woudn't they?

what sort of strengthening are you doing? would love to see some pics of teh diff in

Hi Guys, Just an update as i spoke to Phil yesterday. The grill mould is still on-going as they have been stuck doing other jobs. though they have sourced what seems to be the same mesh material, and they have spoken to a metal guy to make up the brackets. he is sending me a set of spoilers, for test fitting (the front spoiler, may need to be filled out a little more, as it looks like the original i got may have been a copy of a copy..), so as soon as i get them, i will fit them on Brian's car, and post some pics dafunkist.. the badges are an issue.. you could probably get away with an R33 GT-R badge on the front (probably need to cut the back down a little so it is flat), and an R32 GT-R badge on the rear (smaller than the R33 rear badge, but not exactly the same as C110).. but short of getting them out of japan.. i wouldn't hold your breath of them turning up here (maybe once in a blue moon!), and if they do.. expect BIG dollars! Phil's contact details are in one of the threads.. btw people, my website, is SLOWLEY getting back up!

any chance that the board/underlay section under the carpet, under the pedals is still intact? mine sponteniously combusted when trying to weld up a hole in the floor http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=447&sessionid=7767948eae5605046534666c59dd890e i am not 100% sure how it actually attaches though, anybody?

haha, yeah, i was going to point your car out in the photo's she has been sitting on that trailer for the past 2 months, but she fired up first time! I had my uncle over at the time and he decided to go crazy cutting out the arches for me.. i think he may of gone a little overboard.. but yes, you need to cut both the inner and outer skins, and somehow rejoin them (as i would assume the body would get some flex here) they are VERY sexy wheels! everybody who has seen them have commented so far! i certianly wouldn't use any other wheel! after trouble getting a 2nd DR30 rear caliper, i have given up on using the DR30 rears instead i am going with the SWR rear VT commodore brake kit. A bit of a shame after spending $600 getting most of the bits, only to find that 2 of the 3 calipers i had, were stuffed and unrepairable (stupid roller bearings built into the caliper body for the operation of the hand brake assembly were seized). But on a good note, i am getting my 1/2 roll cage installed, along with the driveshaft, rear Z31 CV shafts and front R34 brakes installed.. then after doing the fuel system, and wiring, she may almost be ready to fire up!! i can't wait!

i know i know... when i rang the tyre place, they wouldn't touch the wheels because of the size and because the car needs to be engineered (they just told me to speak to my engineer, which i don't have yet). So i just bought the cheapest 16" wheels i could find ($50 a pop), just to get the car rolling, so the brakes will fit. the tyres were 205/45 and 205/60... and man were they a stretch on the 8"/8.5" rims

today i had to take my car to SWR for it's big brakes to be fitted (among other things), so finally i managed to get some rubber on the rims and stick them on the car! i know some of you have been waiting on pics, so here they are! it looks like they will fit very very well with the flares..

awesome, thanks for the info.. it is obviously not a priority.. but it would certainly be nice any idea if the motors/mechinisms would be similar?

hmm.. i will have to keep my eyes out for the electric winders and switches then! i saw a switch set on yahoo auctions, but i assumed that having 4 switches it would have been the 4 door (unless it is non-original, and they only hooked up the front 2 windows on this?)