khughes

haha, and to think.. when i first had the bright idea of buying an old skyine, i actually considered a C211.. that is until i discovered the KPGC110. It has all gone downhill since then

if you don't manage to sell the parts with the car, you may make a little more money parting some of them out than just giving them away?

a coupe with electric windows???

wrong section guys!

Hi Guys, Just an update on the Fibreglass pieces, as i just got an update from Phil. The front lip and boot spoiler is complete, and a few have been made up. He has also a few fenders in stock now too. The grill is proving to be a problem, apprently it had been prepared very very poorly, and there wasn't even a undercoat applied before painting, resulting in the paint peeling off during moulding. He is confident it can be done, it will just take a while longer (hopefully 2 weeks longer). On a happy note, he has sourced some metal grill material, but there is no firm pricing on this yet. It is probably a good idea to ring Phil and make your order if you want flairs, front spoiler or rear spoiler.. at least then they can make a few more at one time than having to pull out the mould at a later time. Kent

maybe it was the last thing they threw in the door before they slammed it shut

Hi Guys, A Quick Update, I received an email from Phil today, and the moulds should be complete this week. With parts being made up for myself and Brian late in the week. If anyone is interested in getting some made up, it is probably best to contact Phil from Challange Fibreglass on (m) 0418 567 019, they are located in melbourne and email address is phil@melbpc.org.au If you are in Sydney, and are ready to get the parts now (and pay up), then i can possibly get it included in my shipment of bits, but i need to know asap, so that it will not delay my order (otherwise Brian will kill me )

Thanks can't wait!!! I got my wheels back on wednesday, and only managed to get a photo of them today, they look so much better now!! the one photo'd is the 16x8.5" enjoy! hopefully tomorrow i should get my hands on a used set of road legal semi slicks too... they will probably be a little too thin for use as proper tyres, but they will do for now (just for fitting, brake sizing etc..)

aarc it sounds like you know an AWEFULL lot about suspension setups in the 240K.. any chance you can do a writeup on how we can all improve our handling? maybe in stages of better road handling, spirited driving and all out track setup (maybe with around 300kw at the rear wheels )?? I am lost when it comes to suspension (and i am sure most of us are), i know that it certainly pays to find a good suspension place to setup a car, but i don't want to have them researching the right setup at my expense and before anyone else says it, i do understand the importance of a good suspension and wheel setup, i certainly will one day get there, but at the moment with so much else costing big $$$ i would love to be able to do the little things that can still be usefull later on.

it is probably best the get the rotor diametres off Lachlan, and then match them up with the right model ones from the DBA catalogue, i didn't do the mod myself, as the brakes came on the shell that i bought, though it doesn't seem to be much different to the mods that the Z guys do..

what seats are you getting? who is fabricating your mounts? i might be interested in a set of mounts too if they are to fit recaro's (most are similar to the recaro mount)

congrats on the car! fi it is the std wheel, the centre horn pad should twist off from memory, something like a 1/4 turn in one direction.. once you get that off, there is a metal plate that you need to unscrew, and then you will see a big nut. take off this nut... now the fun begins.. unless you have a steering wheel puller (which are not cheap), just sit in the car and pull as HARD as you can on the wheel (don't use short blows as this can damage the steering column if it is collapseable). eventually it should pop right off, be careful you don't knock yourself out doing it though, many a person has! as lochlan and i found out, double check the spacing of the cancelling tabs on your new boss with the old one.. if it is not right then you will have some BIG issues.. you will need to get the right type. post up some pis of your car and your new wheel when done! Kent

Lachlan should, as he bought them from me (not sure if they are fitted yet?) they bolted up to late model 240k struts, though it is not clear what year the change was. my car has C210 coil overs, and they bolted straight up to those. pics of rotor, two posts up

bugger, i would have hoped they would be a little more scratch resistant, oh well.. i guess i am going to have to be extra paranoid about them!

well, i am making an educated guess they are powdercoated, i would assume that if they were simply painted then it certainly wouldn't take much to scratch them (like putting on the wheel nut) they are certainly aluminimum.. there is no way they are magnesium.

no, watanabe wheels are aluminumum, they are just painted (well. powdercoated i guess) in the colour that watanabe call "magnesium" (sort of a cross between gun metal grey and bronze, as i said, the picture isn't a good representation as it was a gloomy day, and the camera flash was used. I did get a few ... "err.. we are not going to touch magnesium wheels" comments when i was getting quotes.. apparently they are a "little" volatile when working on. i have to admit though, i am a little nervous about getting the tyres put on the wheels, i hope they don't get all scratched up.

oops i forgot to mention that Bruce (240K&Beyond) has now nabbed the oil cooler kit, but i still have the fuel pump if anyone wants it.. just make an offer.. i am afraid it won't quite hold up to the 6x 700cc injectors that i will be running in the 240k

I know a lot of people here are very interested to know who i got my brand new watanabe's from, i didn't want to post details, until everything had been complete, but i am now more than confident to vouch for this supplier! The Guys name is Miki Yokohata from prestige mart (Details below), and he has been incredibly helpful during the whole process. The wheels are not what you would call cheap, but given that you could easily pay over AU$1500 for a secondhand set here in Australia, i thought it was more than reasonable. It cost me $2300 for a set of 16x8 and a set of 16x8.5 Watanabe R 8 spokes in Magnesium finish. That included shipping (EMS with insurance) as you may have read, i had ordered the wheels with a michined lip, however watanabe forgot this, and shipped them purely with a magnesium colour.. Miki helped me greatly by organising for watanabe to pay for the local finishing here in Sydney, i can not be any happier! i just wish all suppliers were as open with their communication and honesty I am pretty sure he can order anything you want from RS watanabe, i however supplied the spec to him Miki Yokohata Prestige Mart email: tpot@tpg.com.au http://users.tpg.com.au/tpot he is based in Western Australia and has an australian bank account etc. so no need to deal with japan accounts etc. to have a look at what Watanabe offer, goto their website at: www.rs-watanabe.co.jp (they have a pretty good user gallery too!)

good news! I just heard back from my supplier that Watanabe will pay for the local finishing of the wheels here in Sydney, so i will be getting them done next week! I can't thank Miki (my supplier) enough for helping me through this, it could have turned into an absolute nightmare (like i am having at the moment with a supplier in america, but that is another story!) i will post his details in another thread, so they can possibly be stickied

i do have an address, and a phone number and a website. But i was tryng to be decent incase there was a proper excuse, i didn't want to give people bad impressions unjustly... if it is okay, then i will post the details. is there a better regional forum that i should post this too? i looked up a map of america and it sort of seemed to be near the middle

that's not a gt-r either ;D

trust me, bayside blue was high on the priority list (i would love one in an R34), but i have since decided that i am going to stick with either an orginal red, or original silver/grey just need to decide which.. i am still favouring towards grey, my girlfriend has other ideas

hmm.. i had the exact same issue... The original hub that i bought was an autotechnica one, and i was assured that it would fit the 240K.... pulled the steering wheel off and .... no... the blinker cancel posts were too wide... i ended up buying a 2nd hand momo one (atleast it is meant to be, it came in a momo box which seems to have the correct post spacing, though i havn't tried it. but yeah, as you said, the metal ring on the hub, should be in contact with the post for the button power (grounded through column), as the wheel spins, it still sits on that post, if the metal collar isn't far enough down.. it won't connect.. i ended up buying the 2nd one from ebay for under $50.. so maybe that would be easier and you will know it will work (i think there were 2 types of datsun ones from memory.)

I even had made up the stencils to paint on, but i didn't want to do it until the car was completely ready... i chose 神奈川県警 - Kanagawa prefectural police to be on the door.. not that i have any idea where that is!! (maybe a prefecture of tokyo?) that picture is missing the emblem on the bonnet though

Hi Mat, yes you are right, when i bought that car, something was wrong with it and i couldn't exactly say what it was... it wasn't until i took the tail lights off for cleaning that i realised that they were JDM spec ones.. not GT-R as the plastic/chrome surround is different (4 spoke rather than 1billion spoke) of course i quickly snapped them up and swapped them for my aussie spec ones.. so no.. the car no longer has the JDM tail lights