khughes

Hi Tom, i didn't get a chance to look on the weekend, i will be back working on the car on sunday. i will know for sure then.

Hi Guys, i am just about to put in an order for a set of 16x8 (0 offset) front and 16x8.5 (-6 offset) rear watanabe R's in magnesium centre and polished lips. The reason i am going so large is to fit a set of R34 Skyline GTT disc and calipers on the front (large 4 spot aluminimum calipers, 300mm discs). I chose the particular offset and size as this was one of the 2 recommendations from the watanabe website (the other being in 15") for the KPGC110 GTR, and the GTT came out with 17" wheels standard. To be honest, i have no idea if the 16" will fit, i have the flares to go on the car, but someone also said the GT-R track is wider than the KHGC110. anybody here good with working out suspension geometries? will this wheels fit? the car will be engineered with them, so if it is slightly dodgy, it will cause me grief later on the watanabe suggestion for the khgc110 is 15x6.5 (+14.5 offset) front and rear

i may have a spare one, not sure of condition though, i will try and check too

thanks Z-Kid, i will measure it on the weekend and send you a pm

fantastic, could you give me the measurements of the distance between the 2 tabs? then i can measure to see fi they will fit Kent

i was even looking at trying to maybe tac on the s30 transmission mounts and mounting tabs, not sure if the tunnels would be similar sizes though... it could be an option though!

i just had a look at the parts manual and it seems to be the same for both auto and manual (my car was originally manual anyway)., there certianly doesn't seem to be a destinction in the book

unfortunately it looks like australia is heading down that road too (being strict that is) looks like i am going to try and shoehorn in a 500x300x75 intercooler sitting infront of some type of custom radiator (probably 100mm thick) with a thermo fan in between.. well that is the plan until that doesn't fit at this stage the oil cooler will be sticking out of the window!

rusty is fine with me unless there is someone in syd with one (which i doubt), i will pm you now don't suppose you have the mounting hardware too?

i don't think the little old lady that i am going to hit one day will like the feeling of an oil cooler mushed into her face it is amazing what gets passed through japanese registration

Thanks Brian, that sounds exactly what i am trying to do! I am using the RB25DET engine and RB25DET gearbox. The engine is mounted very low, but is also still a bit forward so that you can easily get to the top gearbox bolts, probably 2.5" between the firewall and head. My oil pan sits in front of the crossmember (with very little gap at the moment), so it sits very low I would love to get any photos you have, it will help explain to my friend what needs to be done. are the studs on the C10 the stock mounting location? they are this way on the C110 too. khughes@ihug.com.au

Datstan, what size intercooler did you use? that looks like the way to do it (although, i am not sure where my oil cooler would fit

Has anybody still got a parts car? i am looking for a standard gearbox crossmember. anybody got one? mine has been modified to try and fit the RB25, but i am afraid i will need to start again

is this the pic? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17339&cat=500&ppuser=7932 They look like they are turned from aluminimum, any clues on who makes them? or where they are available? anywhere outside of japan? or is it a custom job?

I just realised that the RB20 and SR gearbox are a lot smaller than the RB25.. hence why nobody else has had an issue... I think i might try and get somebody elses advise on getting the gearbox mounted more securely.. anybody know the answer to who can make up custom rubber/nolethane mounts?

I forgot to mention.. as it sits, the lowest point of the car is the gearbox and gearbox cross member, it is a good 2 inches lower than the engine crossmember

Hi Guys, I know there are a few people now who have done or are doing RB or SR conversions. I got my car back from my mechanic friend, with the engine and gearbox mounted, but i am a little concerned about how low the gearbox is on it. He mounted the engine very low in the car (to help with centre of gravity), the sump is roughly 5mm from the cross member (we are going to have to put in spacers, this is too tight i think). With the gearbox, he got the original gearbox x-member, cut out a section of the middle and then welded it up sitting around 1.5 inches lower (all box sectioned with steel) and around 2 inches further back. He didn't modify the transmission tunnel as apparently bashing it out doesn't actually get you very far (apart from clearing the odd bump or sensor, and if i wanted to get the box any higher i would need to get the tunnel cut out and presumably a new one made up ($$$$$$$) I have lost my original gearbox mount support rubbers, and at the moment there is a set of shock rubbers on there, so the mount has no real support, and twists, making the gearbox sit much much lower. I really need to get a set of new rubbers and see how much of a difference it makes. My Question is, how have the rest of you done your gearbox mounts? anybody got any pictures? having never done a build up like this before, i am not sure about what my friend has done, it seems a little bodgy to me.. but he says it will sit right with proper rubber mounts. The second question is, how can i get a set of gearbox mount rubbers made up in harder rubber or nolethene (would this be better/stronger?). Should i really be relying on 2 bits of rubber to stop the gearbox mount twisting? i can't imagine how bad this would be for the tailshaft... The other option i guess would be to do some other type of mount on the car in the correct mounting position for the new gearbox so it wouldn't twist, even if the rubbers wear.. would this be feasible?

you could be right.. i got it mixed up last time i did it too... but then again, i also had the caliper on upside down...:paranoid:

and there is a C110 one available on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-240K-INDICATOR-SWITCH-WITH-ALLOY-HOUSING-NEW_W0QQitemZ4617459883QQcategoryZ102336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

guys, your in the wrong section

lachlan, I managed to buy a set of new cylinders from repco in August 2004. they were from memory very cheap at around $30 each.. I have a set off my project car if you want them? not sure what state they are in but they are intact! did you bleed all the wheels, closest to furthest?

looking at the parts book for Aussie C110 May 1976 the C110 is 25540-S0100 - ASSY Switch, turn signal and according to the Jap C210 manual it is 25540-U7401 for all models up to 79/07, it also mentions something about 25540-U7402 which could be a replacement number?

haha, i was going to say it works for me until i saw that lachlan edited it for me already

check this out! http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/84760737 and a little description and pic on the car here: http://www.c110-skyline.com/henge.htm expensive, but imagine how rear it is! 1/400 made!

Yep, lachlan found the GTR codes and posted them in another topic (these forums are a bit all over the place..) they are: Red: 163 White: 024 Silver: 258