khughes

i am not sure, if it was, that would be fantastic! does anyone know if they can be bought in Australia?

Hi Guys, a very good friend of mine (the guy helping me build the 240k), bought an electronic dizzy out of a 280zx for his 260Z with L28. he didn't get a rotor arm with it, could anyone please help out? apparently there are two types, not sure if the rotors are different, but he has: Distributor cap Distributor body (D6K9-05) Ignition module (E12-80 – 1 top plug with two terminals)<O:p</O:p Six spark plug leads Ignition coil

i would love a C10 and that one is certainly nice!, i couldn't really afford to have 2 classic cars though mind you the performance bug has bitten me once more (i know.. i havn't finished the 240k yet!), and i am currently selling my saab convertible and buying a 2.7L twin turbo S4 there will be a few special RS4 bits going into that car! (but anyway.. that is OT, i am juste xcited.. pick it op on friday night)

still the same one!! i am surprised how much trouble this guy has had selling that one! unbelieveable!

mikey, does the watanabe site suggest sizes for the C110 (maybe i missed it?) or are you talking about the suggested wheel size chart thing? Kent

That's Ray's car.

here is a better photo of the rails (without the paint), it looks like you are right, seems to be built that way to absorb an accident? and yes.. after stripping the car, i found a lot more rust than i had hoped the worse being the drivers floorpan (as you can see), above the air con box, around the top of the front and rear wind frames, and both sides between the door frames and the wheel arches..

that one sold for $1770 a little while back.. now it is relisted.. obviously they pulled out.. or something else happened..

what sort of shape is he making it out of? i would be interested in getting one made up at the same time if it is out of the flat type bar, with as much clearence from the engine as possible (ie. close to the bonnet, if i need to get measurements, i may need some time to put the engine back in etc..), anyways.. keep me in the loop

I wish i was!! it would make things 1000x easier!

It won't be a dedicated track car, mostly a weekend cruiser with a fair bit of fun on the track (maybe 2x a month). The Car is a 7/74 model, so i am surprised if this was a structural change that early on in the cars life (though i guess anything is possible). I don't remember if the other side is the same, maybe it is as you say, a defect in welding, it certainly isn't that clean a weld. Has anyone got a later model car they can check this area for me? Talking about crash loads, is it easy to get reinforcement bars installed in the doors and the dash area? i know this was a requirement for import cars if they did not already have them, but how easy would it be to get these put in. Hopefully it would never be needed, but if you do get hit side on, it would be nice to have a little protection (certianly worth the money for my life!).

Thanks, that explains it well, and certainly it saves me the trouble doing it then! you scared me there for a second, as i have a 1/2 cage installed (i was assured it would be okay since my car will be registered as a 2 seater now). I checked the NCOP and a 1/2 roll cage is acceptable(as long as it doesn't go forward of the front seats) I know it isn't as strong as a 6 pt, but atleast it should give some side to side bracing, My cage isn't attached to the roof where the B pillar would be.. not sure if any are.. but i would assume that in extreme circumstances some flex could occur here? not the greatest photo.. but you can sort of see the hole i am referring to

sorry to go into this again but i just recieved an email from stewart Wilkins after i asked them about strengthening up the 240k. Basically he stated that the 240k body is already very strong, and doesn't need stitch welding along the suspension towers. He did recommend a roll cage (which we all expected) and a front strut brace. He said that if there was a weakness, it could be that the layers in the chassis rails may seperate, so that if the bottom seam was fused together it would enormously increase it's strength. now i am not 100% sure where he is talking about, can anyone give me a clue? I was looking at the rails in the engine bay (right under the firewall) on the weekend (finally finished stripping!), i noticed that the welds between the top of the engine frame rail and the firewall wasn't that crash hot (leaving fairly large holes, but this could just be cosmetic). Don't suppose anybody knows where a strut brace can be bought? (SWR was over $300 for an adjustable) if anybody has some influence, maybe we can get a few of us together for a good price?

sorry if you think i ignored you, that isn't the case at all! after reading your post i canned my idea of blending the flares into the bodywork.. I did decide though at the time to stick with my original plan of using rivnuts (i still will), i did faulter there for a second after seeing the factory install page, but i decided i like the look of the hex head screws better! i have already cut out the rear fenders, though i am yet to get them re-welded up, it is far beyond my skill level. The flares don't seem to be a 100% fit, i think i am going to need the rubber between the body and flares, as Peter said, the gap would annoy me to no end Kent

do you have any photos of the re-inforcements that were made on the body? i can sort of see that they have welded in bars along the sides of the car (below the door), but is there any structural strengthening in the dash etc?

all the photos seem okay to me.. maybe your internet connection is a little slow today? or is it just the site since the upgrade?

that is certainly an interesting way to get to the underbody.. i am struggling with having to do that myself (remove all the underbody sealer).. i was looking at somehow making a rotisserie, but i don't really have the space or skills, plus i can't be arsed stripping the whole subframe at once.. what did you lift the car with? it certainly looks good! i have just about stripped my whole car too (with the exception of 1/2 the engine bay, and the underside), marine washed and metal ready'd it, next weekend it is time to start POR'ing the first coat. i think i am going to have to use a twisted wire brush to get my underbody coat off, i am pretty sure it is of the rubber type, so heat won't really help get it off (so i have heard) i certainly wish i had as much space as you have.. that would make things 1000x easier.. oh well.. bit by bit i will get it done.

hopefully the gallery will be fixed soon, i would love to see those pictures in better detail! of course i spent the weekend drilling out and inserting rivnuts on the rear fenders, and drilling out my flares didn't I ... i guess i have some metal filling to do now

any chance you could scan that page in for me? i dont have too many descent photos of the red GT-R's

Hi Guys, Does anyone have a good stash of real KPGC110 photo's? specifically i would love to get hold of some higher res photo's showing the flares, rear spoiler and front grill. On the real KPGC110 flares, does anybody know how they are actually attached? are they simply bolted on (like most of the fibreglass ones), or where they actually moulded into the body? also anybody have any ideas what the underside of the wheel well looks like with the real flares on? is the gap between the flare and metal filled? how much of a metal rim does the factory leave under the flare? since i have stripped my car now, i am seriously thinking about in what order i should fit/paint the flares.. i was just going to clean up the edges of the fibreglass and bolt them on top with a piece of rubber bead between the body and flare.. but i have been thinking lately of actually sticking the flares on the car now, and fill the gaps, then painting them black after the car has it's base coat (then screwing in the rivet heads later on when finished). I assume the flares on the orginal KPGC110 are just matt black?? anybody got any paint colour codes for these? the mirrors or the front grill?? (i know i am asking questions impossable to answer now!)

yeah i have to agree.. i have been told numerous times that i am 12 years old by my girlfriend (and certainly not mature!).. so it must be true on a serious note, all this off topic conversation is both good (community wise), but bad as well (especially when you have to sift through 12 pages of crap to find the 5 or so actual on topic posts).. it is a shame forums don't have an invisible ink option for off topic posts.. where users can choose to see the crap (like this ) or only the relevent info..

not sure what brand the bushes are for the moustache bar, Stewart Wilkins did them when they built the bar for me. Noltec do a kit for the standard bar though! http://www.noltecsuspension.com/ there are also rear x member bushes that may be useful Rear brakes are late model Commodore/Falcon hybrids (with integrated banksia brake) and my fronts are R34 GTT calipers/disks, hooked into a 10" Booster with 1" Master Cylinder. certainly not the cheapest of options.. but i want to be able to stop pretty quickly.

That's cool, i just realised what has happened, he has removed my response about clearing out the off topic posts..

i sure did! i have two issues though that i am still yet to resolve. A) the Z31 halfshafts just barely rub on the body of the shock when the rear wheels are fully loaded The Z31/260Z adaptor that i got has probably a little too much meat on it on the inside.. there is not much clearence between the bolts that hold the CV to the adaptor (if the nuts arn't turned the right way, they foul the arm, and the nut heads are already machined down on the edges) I probably should have gone with Stewart Wilkins Z31/260z adaptor, and i still may (i need to get the diff reconditioned as it is noisy, or a KAAZ LSD fitted) if this is the easiest fix. I am not 100% sure what i am going to do about the first one yet, i have a set of adjustable shocks out of a DR30 that i hope will fix it (but havn't measured yet) pics here: http://www.project240k.com/images/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=10 http://www.project240k.com/images/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=16 http://www.project240k.com/images/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=15

and i thought 240k's only came to australia in yellow