khughes

that is freaky man! i did edit my post, but i am NOT victor laury (and never have or will be ) man this not being able to edit your posts after 2hrs bites On another note.. where exactly should the standard compliance plates be on these cars? the ones i have seen have the Jap plates on the Left hand side of the rear firewall (symetrical to the VIN location), and the australian plate between the passenger front suspension tower and the firewall.. i am guessing the aust plate was put in different locations though, as my car doesn't seem to have drilled holes in this location (my aust plate was put on the firewall after respraying..)

Lachlan.. when you went and had a look at the car, did it have it's Japanese and Australian compliance plates on? they are not there now, and having gone through 90% of the bits in the car, i am doubtful that they are even with the car anymore (the owner certainly had no idea).. this coupled witht the fact that it hasn't been registered for almost 10 years (according to the owner), i would imagine it would be extremely hard to register wouldn't it?

i actually went and checked out that car, that black skirt think is bizarre.. it is actually metal, and welded to the car! i would say that the car is very rough (especially as the owner says it has been in storage for the past 9 years, the underbody is pretty weathered and surface rusted).

well.. shipping is "only" $2370

definately get the whole front cut ($300 is nothing in the scheme of things, especially if this is your first project), i have wasted a lot of money and time trying to chase parts because i just bought an engine and gearbox without all the extra bits you get in the 1/2 cut. I can't believe that SA's RTA will allow you to put in a completely different series engine with a much larger capacity without an engineers certificate, let alone accepting what you say the new number is over the phone.. i would ring and check if i was you. anyway, you will probably also need a custom mounts, driveshaft, upgrade to an R200 Differential if you can, and much better brakes. The RB series sizewise, do fit in nicely (see pic), and as you said, the RB20DET will work out a LOT cheaper. then again.. you could do an rb30 with triple webers

yes, sorry. and for some reason i can't edit my original post..

not the best photo but you get the idea

Finally, challenge fibreglass have completed making replica's of the FRP GT-R grill that i bought from japan. Challange fibreglass, have the full kit now, including rear GT-R bobtail, overfenders and the front lip. their stuff is very good, and nice thickness! especially considering what they had to work with (warped original)! If you want to make an order, call Philip Lew direct at (0418) 5667 019. They are busy trying to catch up over the xmas holidays, but they should be ready to start making them on demand in january. photo's attached now, does anyone know what the proper colour of the grill should be? the ones from japan came in a colour similar to the rear beaver panel (a metalic grey)

thanks for the tip Jon, a set of Recaro rails that i bought to modify to fit the 240k had a very similar system, 3 adjustment heights either end. Matt, how do the seats feel? damn i wish my car was ready!

looks good! what rails did you get?

yeah don't do it.. I had a pristine 1997 R33 GT-R, ended up selling it to a friend as i hardly ever drove it and wanted something different... i will always kick my self, the car is no where near as good a condition as when i sold it, and i miss it hugely (i am hoping the 240k can fill the hole when she is done, one of the reasons i am going all out). bottom line is, youve put all the hard work in, and these things (Skylines) tend to run in your blood once you lose it, you will want it back, and you WILL be dissapointed if you ever look for another to replace her (let alone ever trying to find all those goodies). if you DO decide to sell her, i am sure some of us might be interested in any good spares you have

Hi Guys, does anybody have access to a set of 240K shocks? i need to know what the length of the shocks are both extended and compressed. a friend of mine has a set of KYB adjustable shocks for an DR30 Skyline, i was hoping they would fit my car.. Kent

that sounds like a bargain!

can we convince him with cases of beer?

too long no seriously, not much has actually been done, it took a whole day just to do the left side of the front panel and that front side of the bay! i just have to keep reminding myself that every bit of rust i uncover makes it well worth the effort! i have to say, i can't wait to just pour the stripper on the roof and sides.. smooth surfaces are very nice to strip.. i have spent probably 3 full days on it all so far (with some help from my girlfriend, my chief POR painter)

well, if you ever decide to go ahead with it, i am sure there will be some of us very interested in sharing the costs!

i would have thought that to CF the bonnet, it would cost exactly the same to make a mould etc... as good as it would be, i think it would be a little too prickly from an engineering point of view certainly if done to a budget. let em know how it goes, i will have to get my front chin valance sandblasted, and redistrip are very local! i may not need to grab the gun off you for a good couple of weeks (until xmas is over atleast, i cringe at the thought of stripping deadener off the bottom of the car!)

oh man, after spending all saturday stripping the battery tray area of the engine bay, i must say, getting the thing sandblasted sure looks inviting but better to spend a couple of extra hrs of my time rather than pay somebody else i figure (atleast for what i can do myself).. I think some of my larger photos are dead (stupid software!), but here are some shots of my hard work (up to the suspension tower, it is a little hard to see grey on grey! ) http://www.project240k.com/images/thumbnails.php?album=30 i don't think there is a way around not removing the brake and clutch booster, the brake booster is too big to strip/spray around.. i hope it isn't too difficult

this one? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19042&highlight=240k+coupe+blue

me too .

looks good! thanks for posting those up, that will help me when it comes to mounting my fuses and ECU

it was a lot worse trying to swish a bonnet full of water and marine clean around

thanks, i may take you up on the offer of the body deadner gun.. that could be a huge help. here are some photo's of my efforts last weekend, http://www.project240k.com/images/thumbnails.php?album=30 yesterday we spent stripping the front fenders, and welding up the ex-bogged up rust holes... it certainly slows you down when you hit bog.. I also started stripping the front of the car to see how it would go on the 2-pak, and it came up very well, all the little crevices are a pain, but nothing lots of stripper and wire wool doesn't fix i don't think the engine bay will be too much of a hassle, unless it is bogged up too.. i took some photo's of the fenders and front, but they didn't come out on my phone so i will get them next weekend.. i have almost used the 4L of stripper (probably 300ml left) just on the bonnet, boot lid, front fenders.. but well worth it so far! i am hoping i get a lot better coverage of the POR

that is looking great!

I am afraid, any compressor spraying (or large areas of sandblasting) is out of the question for me where the car is, so i am going to have to resort to more complex methods It looks like ppc do a aerosol pass through type spray can, which may allow me to spray the por15 into the frames.. seems $$$ at $18, but i have not seen anything similar so far. i hope that it is okay to leave the metal bare after metal readying it (and wishing it off), for a week.. hope it doesn't rust up even more!? it would be quite an effort to seperate the frame and bonnet... if you did, you could look at getting a carbon fibre/fibreglass copy made and bond it to the steel frame that would solve any rust issues !!!