khughes

ooh ok... there is some local development here in Australia in reading the Data off the skyline computers, plugs int othe OBD port, and reports a whole bunch of stuff, either to a LCD display, or laptop... so i wouldn't say that is isn't available (it certainly is to nissan )

i know what it is, but why do you need a working OBD-II computer for it? is it some legal requirement

i spent the weekend stripping the Bonnet and boot lid with the full complement of POR products the POR paint stripper worked very well, the thicker you lay it on the better! it does stink though.. it was pretty cool to watch the paint bubble off in large sections. It did take a while to strip the underside of the bonnet.. lots and lots of scraping in very hard to get places.. downside is of course, i couldn't get right into the frame.. marine clean and metal ready went on okay, it is easy to wash into hard to get places. POR15 grey went on okay as well, just brushed it on as suggested. I didn't get it into the inside frame of the bonnet like i wanted to, i am not sure if i should bother trying to wash it through, it could be a waste, but it is also an area which i would imagine is prone to rust. I think it was good that i did strip them, there were lots of small veins of rust on the tops, and a fair bit of surface rust on the bonnet frames not quite finished yet (stripping took all of yesterday, and i only had time to clean and paint 1/2 of it today), but i will get some pics up.. i also tried stripping the front lower valance, but it is a bit of a mess with surface rust.. i think sand blasting is the go for that one.. next weekend, i will look at stripping one of the fenders (we did a bit of work bending/cutting in the guards to fit the front flares) I think the POR stripper will work pretty well on the engine bay, just not looking forward to all the crevices.. body panels should be fairly easy.. i used about 150mls of POR15 for the bonnot bottom and the boot lid, i think the 4L will go fairly quickly

why do they need OBD-II compatibility?

What do you mean by "wash it with water just before you spray"? according to the directions, the surface needs to be bone dry.. but it does use humidity in the air to cure.. let us know how it goes, i might start stripping some of the small panels, and start PORing too this weekend, hopefully i can do most of it over the xmas holidays.

looking good! did you order the por straight from PPC? what colour por are you going to use? i thought there was a white one, but there isn't so i am tossing up between clear (though, i wouldn't know where i have POR'd), or grey. POR do a very good paint stripper too apparently..

wow, that would be pretty cool... i would imagine it would be some pretty major work though wouldn't it? and what advantage would it give over the current setup(other than not having to buy lots of springs for different heights)?

i have one too.. a little closer.. but probably no better for shipping

wow, that is a bit of rust!! i luckily didn't find any rust on the underside of my car, i do wish i POR15'd it though before i srayed 5 cans of underbody deadener under there though (if only i knew better back then ) I am pretty sure that the majority of my body should be okay, so i am not sure what would be better... sandblast (probably more $$$, and possible warping), or just scrape the hi-build off with paint stripper (should be cheaper, and i guess i can do panel by panel, and POR15 at the same time) it would be nice to somehow treat the rails though.. not quite sure how easy it would be to get a good coat of something in there though

that is a very good point to bring up, great link too.. lots to think about!

hi abdullah.. probably best to stick to english around here it doesn't look like the forums handle arabic too well.

i will ask around for you

go the POR15!!! unfortunately i only recently found the distributer here.. otherwise i would have drowned the car in it if i could have!!! they are very very good prices on the painting! certainly a lot less than i would expect (it obviously helps to know the right people!) my car had a high build primer applied to it before i bought it by the previous owner, but since then i have cut out the fender's, and taken a bit more rust out, so a little bit of rust hole welding and re-priming still eneds to be done. I also have to re-strip out the engine bay to get that painted again. i am not sure if primer goes "off" seeing as it has been on there for probably over 2 years, i would hate for it to wreck the final paint job i wonder if your friend would like to do another 240k?

if you didn't get your mirror fixed, this may be of interest http://cgi.ebay.com.au:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140047760549&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1

what about an alternator out of the L24 powered R30 skyline? (locally delivered 84ish?).. maybe the C210 (around 80's model skyline) may have a bigger one too.. but not sure not sure what regulator type they are.. but you may be worth converting to internally regulated? like the Z guys do.. (i think Lachlan has done this?) otherwise you may be able to get an aftermarket one? maybe check with repco

i am guessing that you mean that you couldn't find anything? it is something that you just have to keep searching for.. it may take weeks for one to come up..

thanks Jim! perfect!! where did you find it?

The C110 2000GT-R had rear disk brakes, given it's increased power, that isn't surprising.. you would have very little chance of finding all the GT-R bits to just bolt on however.. as i said in another post, the only ones that i found (in the nissan family), that even resembled a bolt on was the DR30, MR30 and R31 rear calipers and disks.. all of these would require some custom caliper mounts to be made, custom handbrake cables etc.

maybe also try www.drive.com.au www.carsales.com.au www.tradingpost.com.au http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/index.html and of course www.ebay.com.au

maybe try this guy too.. i bought a rechromed bumper off him.. i am guessing he gets them fixes them, then sells em on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=102336&item=260020890731 looked very good when i recieved it!

this photo probably shows better the binding issue i have.. http://www.project240k.com/images/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=16 it works now, but will not be good when the handbrake wears a little!

it seems that everything nissan post R31 uses integrated banksia brakes within the rear disks (the handbrake assembly), so anything newer will require working hte banksia brake in too.. or you won't have a handbrake (ie. not street legal) R31's could be used, the disks fit on, but you would need to make an adaptor to fit.. but then i don't think the R31 rears are quite up to the DR30 rear's in terms of performance ( i know.. again.. i went and bought all the stuff i needed for R31 conversion, before i bought all the DR30 stuff, before i went the SWR solution... but that was simply because i ran out of time to find a 2nd DR caliper, and HAD to do my rear brakes )

I am pretty sure all of them are imported from japan (but maybe some of the PNE's were sold here? i am no authority i am afraid!). there are surprisingly quite a few DR's here though.. very popular in drift circles) from what i gather, the DR's are turbo, independant rear, R200 Differential (some LSD), all disk brakes.... I think the local ones (L24's etc.) are R30's with live rear axle, drum brakes etc.. but then the jap MR30's had Idenpendant rears, disks all round. Rear disks wern't as big though as the DR30's,

i hope so.. i hate to think how much it will cost by the time it finishes! i am afraid i am one of the people.. 240k groupies are hard to find

a friend of mine who runs a PNE (Paul Newman DR30), is runng R32 GT-R fronts and the stock DR30 rears, he has gone through the mathematics and is totally convinced that the rear DR30's are good enough to match the R32 Gt-r fronts. DR30 brakes are very different to standard R30 brakes however.. The DR30 way is a LOT cheaper..