khughes

all the good bits will be swapped for the other car, so i will definantly be taking the lights out (the other set of lights we purchased in japan have gone walkabout ). apart from the odd bit of required bog, the rest of the car is staying intact, at least we have a fair few unneeded spare parts from the other car incase something goes south. I just love the fact that sombeody put an american flag sticker on the back.. what the!

cool, that makes sense, we had assumed that as long as the firing order was right, it wouldn't matter where it started on the cap (as there wasn't any real markings).. but now that you have explained it, obviously it has to be firing the right plug at the right time. Don't i feel stupid!!! thanks so much, i will try it tonight! oh well.. this is one whole learning experience!

heres the pics ( i have been having trouble getting a new gallery system up on the web, otehrwise i would have posted them earlier.)

1) Yep, i have checked and rechecked the firing order 2), do you mean just the distributor cap (i thought the locking tabs were keyed), or the whole dizzy assembly? it certainly seems as if it is firing on the intake stroke as we are getting fire in the carby. Is there an easy way to find out what the phase is? or do i need to remove the cam cover to see. The Advanced/Retard settings are currently on the bottom of the distributor, facing the front of the car (unfortunatley the book/car is at home otherwise i would be able to visualise how it could be 180 degrees out) Ballast; maybe i have my terms mixed up? i thought the ballast was the little choke looking thing that is screwed to the ignitor mount? it seems to plug onto the + of the ignitor terminals as in the photo: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6295 which answers my question (damn.. obviously i couldn't see straight last night!) Thanks for the help! i have been tearing my hair out trying to figure out what else it could be, but the 180 degree distributor certainly sounds plausible (though why it would have been reversed is anyone's guess). i will have a look tonight and try to make more sense of it

Hi Guys, still no luck getting the engine to start, Motor has been unused for around 4 years, the butterfly valves on the 260c carby that was on the engine (without the air intake attached) had rusted shut, so i replaced it with a 240k one. Replaced the spark plugs, plumbed the fuel pump directly to a can of unleaded (to bypass crappy fuel). Fuel pump pumps petrol into the carburetta. checked the points on the distrobuter and they look fine, the plugs are getting a strong white spark. ignition timing is around 1 and a bit Advanced. When the engine is cranked, it turns over and every now and again there is blasts of air out of the top of the carby. I have also tried spraying "start ya bastard" into the carby, and all that seems to do is sometimes catch on fire (and i thought the fire was meant to happen inside the engine). I have tried advancing the timing all the way and also retarding all the way, and still no luck.. When timing was set to 0, the carby farted a little more than at other times, but the engine still didn't fire up.. There is oily petrol on the new plugs, so petrol is obivously getting in there.. not sure if i am flooding the engine and making things worse though. Havn't tried compression testing it yet, will have to get a tester.. anyone got any suggestions on what else i can try? i am quickly reaching the limit of my troubleshooting ability (and the repair manual doesn't shed any light) also, the ignitor coil, i have 3 wires, a black/red (+), green (- goes to distributor, looks aftermarket) and a ballast type thing.. is the wiring correct? and what terminal does the ballast thingy go (i assume it is +). I get a spark fine, so i assume it is okay

I can't understand it either, it is badged as a GL, and apparently is a 74 model (the guy said when i picked it up), but i havn't actually looked at the build plate yet. VIN is KHGC110-004559 so it probably is a 73 model. The rear lights have obviously been modified to light both lamps as parkers and the owner had gone to extraordinary lengths to protect the interior by laying extra carpet under the original carpet, and in places, stitching more carpet ontop in high use areas. They even fully dismantled the seats to put seat covers on them (i thought they were velour until i ripped them). Shame it was left to go to pot after he died, it would have been quite an exceptional car otherwise! Spent most of today replacing worn fuel pipes and hoses etc.. with a new battery it now cranks, but it doesn't fire up, hopefully it is only crappy fuel and cobwebs holding it back, put new plugs in it, and the spark seems to be okay, carb is filling with fuel. The best i can get so far is the engine turning over and every now and again a fart from the carby.. anyone got any suggestions?

well, she is a little rough (and well neglected over the past number of years), and home as we found out to a couple of families of mice. There are a number of rust spots coming through, front passenger quarter panel is a write off i think but mechanically she looks very good, 65000miles on it (and it shows in the engine bay). Flushed out the radiator (coolent looked good, but a bit of sludge), there is a bit of sludge in the front brake resevoir, oil looks okay. Gave her a big wash, rinsing off most of the crap (and clearing out the boot, home to a family of mice under the spare wheel). launched a flea bomb to get rid of the rest of the nasties inside the car. will need to rip out the rest of the interior though just to be sure (only found 2 huntsmans so far!) The carby on the car was from a 260c and apparently needed reconditioning as there may be rust in the fuel tank, so we replaced it with a 240k one we had lying around, put some petrol in the carb and tried to fire her up (by jumping from another car), unfortunately that didn't work, obviously some electrical gremlins and bad connections BUT THE TAIL LIGHTS WORK! (so did the radio, hazards, dash lights (very dimly lit), headlights and high beam, the rest doesn't yet). Starter motor doesn't seem to turn, it cliks but doesn't crank. hopefully it is just a bad connection too.. Highlights Original nissan keys (both flat key and plastic covered nissan key) GT-R tail lights (i almost fell over when i realised!) Original books / service manual (benefits of one owner car!) Mechanicals look good, should be nice and reliable for the charity rallies

apparently it is good mechanically, but the body is rough.. bit of rust etc.. it has been sitting in a field with ocean breezes.. the guy mentioned it needs money spent on it, but mostly cosmetics (although the carby needs work too.. time for a crash course ) I Will get some pictures and post them up when i get it home tomorrow

yep, going from auto to manual. Cool, i am referring to the pedal assembly, and also the clutch master cylinder Kent

Thanks Jim, will try him, last time i couldn't get a hold of him Does anyone know if the 240z etc. pedal box's are the same? Kent

haha, no they are just sitting in the car, no rails at the moment, getting them made up i am going for the fully SIK ricer look

Does this help you make a descision sorry about the crappy photo's (damn camera phones!)

Hi Guys, If anyone sees a manual pedal box around (in anyones junkyard strolls), can you please let me know!! Thanks guys! Kent

apparently there were a few other enquiries after mine (i am guessing people on here!), luckily the guy was honest and honered the first in best dressed principle payed $500 for it, what a bargain! can't wait to pick it up! Hopefully i can have her back on the road very soon!

these are recaro rails for the EB falcon, but you can see what the C110 will be modelled on I am only getting the bottom frame made up (from the large allen screw on the front down). hope it is clear enough

Hi Guys, In the near future i am getting some seat mounting brackets made up to fit the 240k coupe (i assume that the sedan is the same mounts?). These will be to fit recaro rails, but i am sure it wouldn't be hard to mount other seat rails.. Anyways, since i am getting a pair made, is there anyone else who wants a set made up, shouldn't be too hard to organise, and then we can halve the cost. I am in Sydney, and will be using a mates family business, not sure on cost of them yet, as i need to get the rails and the stock C110 seats down to them to look at first. Anyway, if anyone is interested let me know soon

wohoo, emailed the guy about buying it, since i totally missed the auction, and am picking it up hopefully this weekend! can't believe how many coupes have been around lately.. months ago they were unbelievably rare! just hope it hasn't got too much rust

I got to say, the sound of Jim's car being used in anger is one of the best sounding cars i have heard in my life! maybe the BBC should do a soundbite CD based on the great nissan's of the world and Jim's should be on it!

yep, you gotta love the NSW RTA.. we pay them money for something... just not sure what that is yet... certainly isn't to fix the roads.. maybe GTR seat owners across NSW should organise a class action compensation law suite.. distress (you can't drive your car without breaking wheels / suspension etc.. and physical injury from the back pain)

Be carefull though.. if you are tall, the GTR seats arn't the most comfortable seat in the world, i have friends over 6ft tall that get back pains all the time when driving because of the seats.. one was even considering turfing the GTR seats for GTST seats because of it.. I gotta admit, now that i get back in my GTR, my back does ache a little after long drives (there is little lateral support, and no adjustments), guess i am use to more comfortable seats now Maybe check out a set of recaro SR3's (ie. integra VTIR seats), they are much nicer, but more expensive.. I will probably be getting a set of OBX monaco seats for the 240k, they seem to be very cheap ($600 a pair, ADR approved, harness holes etc..), but i havn't sat in them yet, so i don't know how comfortable they are

Hi Zed74 and guys as alphadog mentioned, we are doing a GT-R replica with a bit of a difference (initially an RB20DET and later on an RB30DET), Initially we bought the 240k shell to use as a charity rally car, however we have fallen in love with the thing (and spent way too much money on it so far), so it is destined to be a bit of a show/go car.. we still have plans to rally in charity events, hopefully we can find a cheap 4 door 240k to do that in. any way.. when i get time i try and keep our website (www.project240k.com) updated with as much info and pictures as we can.. i have to admit though, not much has been done in the last couple of months (unfortuantely i can't weld for crap *hides in the corner*) parts are hard to find, and most times it is just being in the right time at the right place (unless you have contacts in japan, or are lucky enough to use jp yahoo), but it is definantly a worthwhile challange... wait a minute!! (that means more competition for rare parts...) DON'T DO IT!!!!

Hi Bruce, measured up the R31 pintara brakes, the bolt holes are 8mm wide, the distance from the outsides of the 2 mounting bolt holes are 105mm.. so that would make bolt centre to bolt centre 97mm (which doesn't seem to match up to your diagram ) i am pretty sure they are a 260mm rotor, with 60mm height (according to the dba database)

will do, i will check them out on the weekend.. i will try and work out the offset measurements too (as they may also have changed)

aha! your right! i had forgotten about that! some custom adaptors will need to be made though as far as i know there are no aftermarket ones for the 240k's (and i doubt the datsun 1600 ones will fit) Kent

Hi Guys, Havn't quite done this yet, but i have most of the parts for it ready to go.. I grabbed a set of disks and calipers from an R31 Skyline (i think it was the GXE with the rear disks rather than the drums). The way i am planning on doing it is cutting off the drum back plate (where the drum piston sits on), slip the R31 disk on (bolt patterns are the same, and it shouldn't rob too much thread from the bolts (for the wheel nuts).. I was then just going to weld a new caliper mount bracket onto the strut. Not quite sure how to rig up the handbrake yet, but it shouldn't be too far off how they do it for the 1600's Have a search around, there was a website that showed the R31 rear brake conversion for the Datsun 1600.. Again, i havn't done this yet (and i am learning as i go), as when i do it i am going to do a 300zx front brake upgrade at the same time, that will require bigger wheels to fit them in).. Be sure to take some pics for us all! oh you can remove the backplate by removing the wheel bearing etc, but i 'have no idea how that would come out.. so i am just going to cut it off Kent