khughes

canary yellow must have been pretty popular though.. 3/4 of mine have been but i agree.. the yellow is rubbish.. red is where it is at

maybe, i should do something like : http://www.evo.co.uk/front_website/gallery.php?id=337270

unfortunately not with the current cage, it's rear legs terminate on the wheel wells. would have loved to have gotten a 6 point, but was advised by stuart wilkens they wouldn't have got through engineering.. mind you .. saw a porsche yesterday with what seemed to be a factory fitted 6 point cage (GT3-RS or something).. didn't even seem to have any padding on the A piller bars either.. it turned in front of me, so unfortunately i didn't get a good long look at it. i would have loved to properly tie up the front and back of the car

thanks, that would be absolutely fantastic, will pm you. i picked up a bottle of dynax S50 which comes with a little plastic hose, but it isn't re-usable, so unfortunately no good for priming or painting i hadn't found anything else, so if yours works well, i will know what to buy for the Z

honestly, i don't think anything is likely to happen in time I am on the verge of giving up, sticking with original, and saving all the CF/FG goodies for the 240Z (which at least are obtainable in Australia), atleast for the 240Z i do actually need replacement parts.

Hi Guys, yesterday i took the day off to give the 240K a serious wash. we ended up spraying the underside, inside and engine bay with degreaser, scrubbing as best we could then pressure washing it all. Bottom came up really well. for the insides, we ended up washing everything out with a hose, including the inside areas below the rear quarter windows. We noticed this area didn't drain so well (probably why all these cars rust here), and after poking around (both fingers and compressed air), it doesn't seem that this area actually has a direct drainage hole to the outside. The water seems to eventually (assuming not blocked with gunk) make it's way into the bottom door sill, which does drain through the 4 (well, 3 actually, 1 seems to be covered on the inside) holes under the dogleg. there doesn't appear to be a proper drain hole into the sill however, it must just makes it's way slowly through the joins in the sections. Does anyone have an insight into this area and how it's drainage could be improved? being a usable window, i can imagine a bit of water ending up down there (though not as bad as me purposefully flooding it). Chances are, my car won't see a lot of rain, however, i would like to do something properly if i can get the opportunity. My car doesn't have much rust in that area, if it did, i could justify a bit of an exploration trip, wish i had paid a bit more attention when we destroyed the parts car i am also stuck with ideas on how to best prime, seal and paint the inside of the air plenum in front of the windscreen.. can't exactly get a paint gun in there (atleast the Z has a removable top!) just checked the parts manual i have in pdf, which unfortunately doesn't illistrate it too well, will check the service manual (hard copy) tonight. Kent

nice, hopefully mine will work out to be as good.. i have to admit, i have had second thoughts about removing my rear seats and having the rollcage the way i have.. the one shown above could be a little nicer.. I can't for the life of me figure out how to "finish" the rear seat area on my car, seeing as there will not be seats there, i thought about using aluminimum sheets to finish it off, but too glarey , i also thought about mounting the battery somewhere in the rear seat space too... not that the car will be an out and out race car..

Since the old car has left, the last month has been a little slow. Finally got the car mounted to the rotisserie, and back in the garage, but it wasn't until last weekend that we finally plucked up the courage to give it a spin some higher res pics: http://www.project240k.com/2010/10/spit-240k Initial impressions are excellent, the bottom of the car seems as good, if not better than the topside. No major rust to speak of and with the exception of a dent in the mounts for the rubber "scraper" below the fuel lines it is in very good condition. I was planning to strip the underside completely with paint stripper, but there really isn't any need. I will probably just rough it up and epoxy over the top. I am then in 2 minds if i should use POR again (probably not much poitn over epoxy), or go with a normal 2 pak chassis black etc. followed by a bitumen sealer. I would like to have the best protection possible (not that it would be driven daily, but rather better to do it once properly!). I would welcome some ideas from those who have done this before! I also eyed up my larger fuel lines that i bent up from the fuel lines off the old car.. not far off, but again.. it is going to be much easier to put them in with the car on the side (going with the 2 standard lines are returns, and a larger 5/16" (from memory) steel bundy line as the main feed. you can't imagine how much easier it is to work with the car on it's side! Kent

Just a small update, Cut out the roll cage, and The car sold today, and was picked up.. sad day.. but glad to get some extra space again.. it has been a LONG time since i have been down to 1 car (the Z doesn't count yet) just waiting on one of the adaptors for the rotisserie to arrive, then it's game on!

looking good mate! and a great catch

Hi Guys, I have had a few guys contact me about buying my "old" car. It is probably going to take me a good month to get all the bits and pieces sorted, and things moved around before i am going to stick it on the market. However, if you are super super keen, let me know (it may motivate me to move faster!) and i can get you some pic's of the car as it is now (and how it was in bare metal etc. if the pics on my website arn't detailed enough) At this stage, i am looking at selling the car as a rolling shell without the cage, with all the parts to make it whole (including an auto L24, set of gt-r style over fenders, i also have a set of straight front fenders which i will swap over). Reason being that it will save the buyer from having to strip it again to get it painted (and also to save me some time). If the buyer is intending to ship the car interstate/overseas, let me know and we can probably work something out. I also have a manual pedal box luying around which i will find and include in the sale for those wanting to convert. With regards to the cage, it is welded into the car at the moment, and i will be getting it removed in the near future. If a buyer wants to keep the cage, then i am happy to leave it in the car, but it will add $1100 to the cost of the car (which is exactly what i paid for it, The cage was fabricated by Stewert Wilkins to be "street legal", and he has many many years of rally proven fabrication experience!. copy of the reciept can be included) and i will get another made up for my car by him. Anyway, more details to come at a later date, but hopefully that answers some questions. it will be very sad to see this car go Thanks guys.

i believe they started life out as a set of C210 struts that had been converted to coilovers with a weld on style kit, i think they were bought 2nd hand by the previous owner. I had them rebuilt by Stewert Wilkins with koni adjustables shocks (which he apparently had a few issues getting them to work with the top hats, and also required the make up of spacers underneath etc.).. i actually just posted a few more detailed pics over on my website (i will get a photo of the height adjustment sleeves when i can next). http://www.project240k.com/2010/08/front-suspension-setup

Hi Bruce, it is a 74 model numbered 5497, it is actually not far off my the one it will replace, which is 5627 and a 74 as well! It actually took me a little while to count them all up, so you know that is got to be a bad thing , but so far i have had 5 of them; The project car (my first) the black and white "rally" car which went to the states the black one which didn't have ID plates, so ended up being salvaged and junked The GT, which again, went to the states this year and finally this one.. (and my last!!) (i didn't count the "GT-R" brian had me organise to pickup, and send across to the states, but i also had the pleasure of having that around for a while!). BTW, i still have that oil cooler for the L engine sitting there for you

Hi Brad, yep, the cage is welded in at the moment, i was planning on cutting it out and moving it over as i still want a cage. I am open to the idea of leaving it in the car as long as the buyer pays the extra (which will be what i paid for it). It is a half cage, and was fabricated and installed by Stewert Wilkins motorsports I will pm you the details Kent

I hope to keep updating this thread as i go (seems much better than scattering across multiple) as well as keeping my blog updated (www.project240k.com). The next thing on the list, is to get the body mounted to the rotisserie, and get it indoors to start the paint stripping. I am hoping that by the time i have it all stripped, i will have sold my old car , and therefore have the funds for the little bodywork required, and hopefully a substantial amount of the painting money

Once complete, it was time to pull out the L24 from the new car and to put it aside (it too, will eventually go with the old car, unfortunately breaking the matching numbers ) Next, out came the front strut and crossmember [More pic's to come] Finally, i have finished removing the whole interior, and the front and rear windscreen. Luckily a lot of the rust around the front and rear windscreen is very small, certainly nothing major. [pic's to come]

It was a difficult decision, as there was nothing fundamentally wrong with my current car (plus the countless hours spent stripping and priming it!), but everyone i had asked had concluded that the new car was too good to let go (probably only for the fact that this car was "complete" and not just a shell that had been sitting around for way too long!) I decided to base the final descision on the bodywork, if i had a good poke around and didn't find anything substantially wrong then i could somehow justify the changeover I pulled of all the trim, took out the interior, checked the firewall, floorpan, boot, engine bay, window frames, doglegs.. nothing substantial, other than a few small areas around the front and rear windows (obviously where the glass had been refitted at some stage), and a small bit of rust from the trim strips under the doors. There were of course the odd bits here and there, but nothing bigger than a fingernail. The descision was made.. I was going with the new car! which meant pulling everything off my 240K and swapping them over. The side benefit was that i could fully document it all and finally get some pictures of the finer details for things like the suspension. the decision would mean however, selling my "old" car at some stage in the near future, so expect to see that on the market as soon as i get it all together! As i had decided before, if you are going to go to the trouble and expense of getting a car painted, there is no point doing it and the having it rust/bubble a couple of years down the track, this meant that i would be, for the 3rd time this project, stripping a car back to bare metal! Luckily, Adam (Adzmax) was selling a Rotisserie, so i took the plunge and bought it from him (i figure if i am going to do it, may as well do it properly!).. In the meantime, i stripped the rear suspension and crossmember from the old car, and replaced it with that from the new one.

It didn't take long to start thinking about buying the car myself, thankfully my old 240K GT had just been shipped off to Brian, in the US, so there was a nice spot on the driveway just begging for another 240k I figured in any event, if the car was in good condition, i wouldn't have a problem finding a buyer for it in Sydney (that was, if i didn't decide to store it away somewhere!), so after speaking with the owner, i purchased the car and organised to ship it up to Sydney Unfortunately there was a delay with the car carrier, and it took longer than expected to arrive, during which i had managed to convince myself that the car couldn't possibly be as good as the photos showed (take for example, any photo of a car for sale on ebay ) and that there would be the usual 240k rust and problem spots on the car. Well finally the car arrived, and it was everybit as good, if not better, than the photo's! i was truely amazed at how good the bodywork was (straight as a die), even the underside of the car was spotless!. the chrome Trim was a little dinged in places but also relatively good, and surprisingly, very little in the way of surface rust bubbles. It was clear after a little investigating that the car had been resprayed at some stage, but it seems to have been done quite well. It was clearly a car that was too good to give up, and the knowing the previous owner had cared for the car for so long reinforced this fact. The idea of moving all the good bits from my current car came up, and this idea gained more and more ground.

Hi Guys, i figured it was about time to do a little bit of an update on my project (especially since everyone else is getting somewhere!), 2010 has so far been a busy year, unfortunately mostly on things other than the project (getting married tends to do that to you ), though the last couple of months have been interesting! (BTW, this whole story will be up on my blog, it may make reading the progress of the project a little easier downt the track as it gets fragmented here) It all started with an email from a guy in melbourne to my website, he owned a 240K coupe from the late 70's. The coupe had travelled with him for a significant part of his life, and unfurtunately it was time for him to sell up in Australia, and return to his home country. He was looking for somebody to not only buy his car, but to continue giving it the love and attention that he had for so many years. I agreed to help him find a buyer, and asked him to send through some pictures of the car. The only ones he had were relatively old (and some ancient), but he assured me that the car was still in good condition today. I couldn't believe what i was seeing, if this car was truely in the condition that the photo's show, it was going to be an amazing car.. a real original grandma/grandpa car!

maybe if you message him, he would dump it into a box if you can organsie an online courier to pick it up? i can recommend e-go.com.au (cheapest i have found so far), or smart send

seems in good condition http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300456008485&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123

definately let me know when you get the price list (if you can, get a price list for the 240Z too), to be honest, i am very close to giving up. Half the 240Z will have to be firbeglass anyway, so maybe i should just be content with that.

could you post a picture of the back of the grill? is it made of fibreglass or metal? and could you post a pick of the front beaver panel too thanks Kent

good selection of parts, got pics of them? it took me a LONG time to manage to pick up an original GT-R front grill!